Tach Drive Working Again !

[L225Chris]

Hello everybody ! First of all i want to say thanks to Vic as he helped me make a repair on my l225 without ever knowing it. At least i hope this is the same Vic. I had read at another sight where he had mentioned a repair to someone whose tachometer was not working. Here is the link. http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/view_all.cgi?bd=kubota&msg=9254 I was able to get mine working again after welding on the small washer and doing some grinding.

 

[Mr. K]

Hello Chris, welcome to the site thank you for registering! Yep, that's the same Vic. Around here he's so handy he's known as Service Department Vic. I'm not so handy so I'll just stick with Mr. K for now.

Glad to hear your Kubota's fixed up!

 

[Oklahoma]

Great post, I just bought a "barnfind" L225, only thing not in perfect condition is the tach. I'll be checking this out in the morning. I'm all for a free fix rather than buying parts.

 

[jay RN]

I have a third hand B8200 with the same problem, is the tach drive assembly the same on the B series tractors?

 

[murky]

Yes it should repair/replace the same.

On the B8200HSD how do you get the tach drive out? Two of the 4 studs holding it on also go through a cast water pipe so it is trapped.

Do I have to move the radiator to get to it? Do I have to drain the radiator?

 

[LeadHead]

How large should the "tab" be if I attempt to do this repair?

 

[coachgeo]

How large should the "tab" be if I attempt to do this repair?

Not so much in width or thickness but height. Ask cause I suspect this is my issue too. By finger I can spin my tach cable and get rise of RPM's on tachometer. Hooked back up tach does not work.

I'll try looking at the tach mechanism with cable removed to see if tab spins tomorrow

 

[coachgeo]

yep...... same issue. The tab broken is not the one the cable slides over as I thought the explanation was saying. It is one deeper inside that mates with a shaft the engine spins.

So.... open to suggestion.

1. I weld. sorta poorly BUTTTT; I no longer have a 220v plug to attach my welder too.

2. still need info on size of tab as pointed out in last post in case I find a local welder willing to tackle this

3. Can one cover this area on the engine with make shift blank plate and use the tractor till this is solved. As mentioned earlier there is no oil to this area but do not know if the shaft protruding into the area can come loose without rest of components of tach gear drive installed and cause issues

update: did this. Found that a single serving vegetable can's pull tab top fits right between the bolts. Using removed nuts and their washers to pinch this down fits just perfect. Not water tight but maybe fine for now. Yet before running the tractor I would like to know more about the potential for a shaft that Tach gears mate too being able to wobble and cause more problems.

4. This part is small.... anyone who has done this weld repair before willing to do the one off my L225? I can just pop it in a box and put her in the mail along with some beer money with it?

 

[Daren Todd]

Coach, can you post a pic of your tach controller. I may have done a repair similar on my new one. Need to see what your working with to be sure


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[coachgeo]

Coach, can you post a pic of your tach controller. I may have done a repair similar on my new one. Need to see what your working with to be sure


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Took a dozen or so and threw out much of them cause my camera SUKSSS as much as a broken Tach Attached is best I can do

 

[coachgeo]

Found a picture that shows one of the units that has a head that goes into the shaft (part that breaks off) and it was a thick blunt screwdriver end*.... while another is more of a typical screwdriver end which is more what mine appears to have been.

I can possibly make a wax impression of the inside of where this whole unit slides in. Maybe this would give an impression of the back side of the camshaft where this slips into?

*http://www.tracpartz.com/product/hour-meter-drive-unit-kubota/

 

[Daren Todd]

3/8" copper water line. Sleeve the end using some high temp high strengh loctite. Crimp the end flat in a vice. Then cut end to the right depth. Soldier or braze the end that contacts the round portion. Let set for 24 hours for loctite to cure mine was too thin and narrow. Local machine shop did that fix minus the brazing or soldiering on mine. Been working great for the pasg year without any issue

 

[coachgeo]

3/8" copper water line. Sleeve the end using some high temp high strengh loctite. Crimp the end flat in a vice. Then cut end to the right depth. Soldier or braze the end that contacts the round portion. Let set for 24 hours for loctite to cure mine was too thin and narrow. Local machine shop did that fix minus the brazing or soldiering on mine. Been working great for the pasg year without any issue

Thanx.. will do that or slot it and make a key that slides into the slot. End of key then machined to be portion that goes into shaft. Pin thru whole thing to hold key in place.

Another thought was to see if end of a multi bit screw driver (or a socket) can be attached to the thing and then glue in a screw driver bit to that.

 

[Daren Todd]

We thought about having something machined, but it would have been paper thin where it mated to the slot.

Some of the old ones used a plastic piece on the end of the shaft.


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[coachgeo]

We thought about having something machined, but it would have been paper thin where it mated to the slot.

Some of the old ones used a plastic piece on the end of the shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The key idea would be to have the key pretty much the same width and thickness as what is needed to fit into the slot on the end of the shaft. Thus no real machining needed. Just a sweep of a file maybe. This is how another user in here did his fix. He did not call it a key though.

So the question remains

1. CAN I DRIVE THIS with the hour meter removed and blanking plate installed...... or will it cause the shaft it mates with to push outward?

2. need measurements off a working gear shaft so know what size tab I'm trying to create on this one. Anyone got an L225 fuel shaft or hour/tach gear laying around?

 

[coachgeo]

Thanks again to those who have offered ideas on how to go about the repair... now just need measurements proceed.

Have done some extensive searching to try to find out if L225 hour/tach drive unit is used on any other tractors. Searching the internet by part number, by tractor model and engine model all come up with nothing but 130$ part listing with part # but no info on any tractor models it fits. Some others drive units show up that do not list the L225 but not other way around.

Had hoped my question would not be limited to L225 owners but guess I can only now ask them.

Anyone willing to hassle with removing your working hour/tach drive gear (30min to hour?) to take pictures and measurements so myself and others who find this thread in the future have good information to fabricate a repair with?

I can sends some beer money or???

 

[coachgeo]

On the B8200HSD how do you get the tach drive out? Two of the 4 studs holding it on also go through a cast water pipe so it is trapped.

Do I have to move the radiator to get to it? Do I have to drain the radiator?

For other's .. you may not have to remove your whole unit to do this repair. On mine.... and your's may be the same their are two or three large brass caps. One is perpendicular to the other. remove one that runs inline with engine and see if you can remove the gear this way by pulling it out. This is the one that will have broken end. It may not come out with removing the gear under the other cap (their may be cap on both ends of this one but you only need to remove one. This cap is what the tach cable attaches too; least on mine) Found that mine removed easy while still on tractor. Yours may as well.

Once you get the right gear out you can see if the tab is broken from the end.

Yes it is a bit of a pain in the arse to remove these caps while still on the tractor but you have to do it rather you remove the whole unit off the tractor or not, but you don't have to remove the whole unit for this task. Don't loose the washers and watch how the come off.

 

[coachgeo]

Got more detail from Vic on this repair

Ive used a 3/8 inch flat washer cut in half and tack welded it to the stub of the tach drive unit with enough weld that it fills the half circle void in the flat washer.

 

[Shivers]

I read your fix on another site. I didn't know that the tach drive needs servicing to keep them lubed. Good to know. Thanks for the info; Shivers

Glad you found me! Those damn Kubota tach drive assemblies always fail because they require their own oil! They are not splash lubricated up there in that little corner of the engine!

Remove the fill plug, and fill the unit with some engine oil. When they seize, and they do seize quite often, the drive tab breaks off where it engages to the timing gear, resulting in the tach cable being no longer driven. Been there, done that!

 

[weathergeek27]

Hopefully someone who has experience with the tachometer controller will see this. I have a Kubota L245DT with a tachometer that doesn't work. I have narrowed it down to the controller that doesn't spin. So far I haven't been able to find a replacement part. I think I have seen posts where the controller can be repaired. The shaft off of the engine still spins freely just not the slotted screwdriver like piece that the tachometer cable slides onto. If I am to attempt a repair, I first need to know how the controller is disassembled. I don't see any obvious way to do it. I seems as if the piece that the tachometer cable attaches to will unscrew off the controller housing but I don't see a way to do this and I think grabbing ahold of the threaded area with a pair of vice-grips is probably a mistake. The shaft that comes off the engine looks as if it might be pressed in. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.