Starting problems

[dnowacoski]

We are a small farm that really relies on this Kubota B1750. Started fine, been running fine, moved it to our feed bins yesterday ... and there it sits. Won't start.

When you turn the key to preheat the glow plugs, all lights go out. Sometimes you can get the glow plug indicator light to come on (1 in about 50 tries) but then when you continue to turn to start, all lights go out. 99% of the time, that is it ... no sound, no click, etc. 1% of the time you will hear the starter click, then nothing. Doesn't crank.

Tried jumping with truck to eliminate battery issue, same results. Tried jumping wire between posts on solenoid, got spark, but no crank.

It bothers me that just turning the key to preheat drops the lights. I replaced the ignition switch last year. Replaced the clutch safety switch in April. What's next to try?

Thanks!
David

 

[Dave_eng]

We are a small farm that really relies on this Kubota B1750. Started fine, been running fine, moved it to our feed bins yesterday ... and there it sits. Won't start.

When you turn the key to preheat the glow plugs, all lights go out. Sometimes you can get the glow plug indicator light to come on (1 in about 50 tries) but then when you continue to turn to start, all lights go out. 99% of the time, that is it ... no sound, no click, etc. 1% of the time you will hear the starter click, then nothing. Doesn't crank.

Tried jumping with truck to eliminate battery issue, same results. Tried jumping wire between posts on solenoid, got spark, but no crank.

It bothers me that just turning the key to preheat drops the lights. I replaced the ignition switch last year. Replaced the clutch safety switch in April. What's next to try?

Thanks!
David

Basics center around the battery cables and the connection of the ground cable to the tractor frame or engine block. Remove the connection and make certain it is super clean and shinny on all surfaces.

Post some pictures of the battery and cables.

Buy a cheap multi meter and then we can talk about doing diagnostic tests.

Dave M7040

 

[BruceP]

I agree with what DAVE_ENG is saying. All farms have a voltmeter kicking around somewhere.

Use voltmeter to monitor the battery-voltage. The meter-leads need to be ON THE BATTERY POSTS THEMSELVES. (you may need a helper to do this)

Tell us the voltage under TWO conditions:
1) Before you touch the key
2) While glowing / starting

Once you tell us these two measurements, We can provide followon measurements or diagnosis to help resolve your problem.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
Just what the others say . Number one is the ground connection to the frame. The best way to check this is with a simple battery tester from Harbor Freight. Connect the tester to the battery and put a load on the battery , if it holds you know your battery is good. Now connect the tester to the positive battery cable on the starter and the ground clamp on the tester to the frame of the tractor. Put a load on the system with the tester. I think you will find you problem.
Good Luck Lance




https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

 

[dnowacoski]

Okay, had a chance to work on the tractor this morning.

Multimeter reads 26 with and without load. But just to be clear, when you turn the key to preheat, all the indicator lights go off. Not sure if it is actually getting a "load". The meter never budges off 26.

Thanks for your help ... tough to be down a machine during this time of year.

-david

.. a little more ...

So I am going to show my inexperience here ...

I attach the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery ... meter reads 26.
I attach the meter to the positive post of the battery and to the chassis ... meter reads 0.
I attach the meter to the positive post of the battery and to the nut where the negative post attaches to the chassis ... meter reads 26.

Shouldn't I be able to test the hot wires to the chassis? I am trying to follow the steps from the service manual for checking the starting system (pg 9-57), but all readings are 0.

??

 

[rentthis]

Before you do anything more with your multi meter, clean all 4 connections of the battery cables.

 

[85Hokie]

Okay, had a chance to work on the tractor this morning.

Multimeter reads 26 with and without load. But just to be clear, when you turn the key to preheat, all the indicator lights go off. Not sure if it is actually getting a "load". The meter never budges off 26.

Thanks for your help ... tough to be down a machine during this time of year.

-david

26 is a crazy number ........ unless it is .26 which is reaaaaal bad.

A standard battery will read approx 12.6+ volts, hot to ground.

I feel that you have a bad battery, or poor connection somewhere.

Take your battery terminals off, clean EACH one and retighten, you may need to do this on the grounding strap too and or the hot lead going to the starter (undo the ground from battery first)

 

[dnowacoski]

Shined the battery terminals and clamps ... tightened the ground to the chassis ... and it started right up! Once. Then nothing. No lights when I turn the key.

I did change the setting I had the meter on (I originally had it on the V750 just like the pic below) to V20 and it now reads 12.63. Again, zero when I tough the negative to the chassis.

So I am thinking it isn't the battery since it turned right over. Does an intermittent problem like this point to a bad spot on the starter? Would that affect the lights on the dashboard? Or do I have a short in the ignition switch? I cannot get any readings from the switch at all with the meter.

 

[85Hokie]

Shined the battery terminals and clamps ... tightened the ground to the chassis ... and it started right up! Once. Then nothing. No lights when I turn the key.

I did change the setting I had the meter on (I originally had it on the V750 just like the pic below) to V20 and it now reads 12.63. Again, zero when I tough the negative to the chassis.

So I am thinking it isn't the battery since it turned right over. Does an intermittent problem like this point to a bad spot on the starter? Would that affect the lights on the dashboard? Or do I have a short in the ignition switch? I cannot get any readings from the switch at all with the meter.

Take the cables off ....one more time, look very carefully at the wire UNDER the insulation, sometime the oxidation there is so bad that it will not allow good flow.

When you placed everything back on, you could have moved a wire or two inside the insulation that allowed it to start fine, the one time.

It still could be the switch, but I think you have an bad wire still somewhere in the mix

 

[D2Cat]

I had a problem similar to what you're describing once. I did all kinds of checks with my meter, and came up with varied results. In disgust, I removed the starter and drove 25 miles to the rebuilder to have him double check it. In short order he said it was fine, and sent me on my way.

Go back home and while connecting the wire again to the battery I discovered the lead clamp on the battery was split. I spent a day and drove 50 miles over a $5 cable!!

 

[thebicman]

I looked at the picture of the attached multi meter and it has the setting on AC volts. It should be turned to the left on the 20 v- scale.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Replace the ground cable, it's bad.

To confirm thins take a GOOD (2 Gauge or better) jumper cable and jump it from the -Negative on the battery to some bright and shiny metal on the tractor.

If it still gives you issues pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested, as a bad plate connection inside the battery will act like a bad cable.

 

[Dave_eng]

I had not anticipated you would set the multi meter dial to the position in the photo I posted. Sorry about that.

The meter will read both direct current voltage which pertains to most of your tractor and alternating current voltage. Trying to use the wrong scale results in crazy readings.

A while back there was an owner of a B6000 which was giving him all sorts of grief starting.

I asked him to remove the starter and polish up the surfaces where the starter frame touched the tractor. After all the starter is getting its ground through contact with the engine.

He found the mating surfaces very rusty and once cleaned up, his starter problems were gone.

This would not explain all of your symptoms but would be a good step to do along with cleaning the ground connection.

I think I read that you checked the tightness of the ground connection to the frame. This is not good enough. Remove it completely from the frame.

You have a simple problem and, except for possibly new battery cables, just cleaning connections will solve it but it has to be done methodically and completely.

Can you post a picture of the top of your battery and cables.

Dave M7040