How long should I crank to bleed L210?

[Jpatrick]

I blew the engine in an L210 a few months back. Problem was a dropped pushrod, and also evidence of blown head gasket. I opted to get a replacement engine, which is now installed.

I've reconnected all electrical, linkage, and added all fluids, including fuel in the tank. I've established fuel flow from tank, through filter, and into engine fuel pump. I've cracked the bleed screw at fuel pump and established fuel there. I've also cracked the 12mm nuts atop the injectors, and then cranked the engine, mostly with compression release engaged. I am not getting fuel out of those 12 mm nuts.

Any idea on how long I need to crank it before I decide there's trouble with the fuel pump? That, or maybe I should do something else to try bleeding the fuel system.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[D2Cat]

The steel lines connecting to the injectors typically requires a 19 mm wrench. Sure you're on the correct line?

Do you have your throttle full on? Give about 15 seconds of starter turning, then give the starter a chance go cool off, then repeat. It may take 6-10 attempts. Have to be patient, 'cause it invariably takes longer then you think it should!

 

[Jpatrick]

Many thanks. I'll keep cranking in bursts.

The inlet fittings to injectors and bleed nut at fuel pump inlet are 17mm. The bleed nuts atop the injectors are 12mm.

 

[twomany]

Many thanks. I'll keep cranking in bursts.

The inlet fittings to injectors and bleed nut at fuel pump inlet are 17mm. The bleed nuts atop the injectors are 12mm.

Forgive my lack of familiarity with the L210 , but are you saying there are separate "bleed nuts" on the injector bodies OTHER than the high pressure tubing nutted fittings? (compression fittings)

If so, I would like to know more....

 

[Jpatrick]

Here are a couple photos of the assembly in question on two different engines. The first is on the tractor, and the second is on the blown engine. Anyway, the fittings on the tubing leading into injector inlet is 17 mm. At the top of the injector is what I'm calling the bleed nut. This is the 12 mm nut you crack if you want to test whether a cylinder is working or not, and also, I am presuming to bleed air out on startup. There is tubing between injectors and beyond that sends overflow fuel back to the fuel tank.

If I've got this wrong, tell me. I'm here to learn. So far, I've not been able to get fuel up to the injectors, and for this reason I can't start the replacement engine.

 

[D2Cat]

In your pictures, the bottom most nut (2 ea) is the ones you want to loosen. Be sure to have a wrench on the half it tightens onto. You should turn the engine over until you have diesel coming out those lines...without air bubbles in the fuel.

The lines on top of the injectors are fuel return lines going back to your fuel tank. No pressure in them.

I do not loosen the nut on the top of the injector to bleed air. Do not take the parts out of the top after you remove the nut or you have further problems. There is a check valve that is in there and it have to be facing the correct direction or no flow will happen. And, it's so small you probably won't recognize it as a check valve.

 

[twomany]

Second what D2Cat has stated.

Those "bleeders" are not the primary air purge fitting.
(although I am advised they work if the injectors leak ;-)

Crack those compression fittings below, using a back up wrench on the fitting!

Fuel will flow in less than five seconds if the fuel delivery rod is pushed home and the engine cranked while the valves are lifted.

 

[Jpatrick]

Thanks for the help. I cracked those fittings and got fuel flow through both. I tightened them up, and after cranking at full throttle I got it to fire a couple times, but it's not quite ready to run yet. There might be a glow plug problem here.