Flying high until hydraulics sprang leak

[jmann]

My L1500dt shoved tons of drifted snow (see here) before I notice some light brown drops in the white fluff. Hydraulic fluid was oozing out of the high pressure line just before it enters the 3 point whenever I attempted to lift the blade. The oozing appeared to come out just before the end of high press. line (see my diagram pics).

Could the line be cracked, or is it just the two gaskets on either side of the 'bell' at the end of the high press. line needing replaced? (Kubota part #'s 04714-00300 is what I'm showing). Are there other reasons for leakage? Could my pressure be too high?

 

[Happyman]

You will need to isolate the leak and than decide on repair type. If the line is cracked, the complete lineill need to be replaced. Or, it could just be a seal.
Verify the leak location first.

 

[bruceatlam]

I sincerely doubt that high pressure is your problem. In the other thread of the snow --- there's a line that definitely looks cracked. Is that the same line you're talking about?? Maybe that's not a crack --- sure looks like one. Did you simply try to tighten that banjo bolt??

 

[jmann]

I sincerely doubt that high pressure is your problem. In the other thread of the snow --- there's a line that definitely looks cracked. Is that the same line you're talking about?? Maybe that's not a crack --- sure looks like one. Did you simply try to tighten that banjo bolt??

If there was a crack, I think it would be on the other side of bolt, and so I don't think the pic shows a crack. I will try to tighten up the bolt. That'd be an easy fix, but it would be strange for it to suddenly leak so much so suddenly.

 

[pat331]

jmann, I had a banjo fitting very similiar to yours on my L35 that cracked where it bolts to the front of the 3pt assembly, under the seat, and under sheet metal. I thought the o-rings had failed. Replaced the o-rings and still leaked. Finally figured out the line was cracked. I had welder braze it up for me and I reinstalled it. That has been 6 months ago, and no leaks now. Good Luck!

 

[jmann]

for it to suddenly leak so much so suddenly

Ha... welcome to the department of redundancy department. Just had to make fun of myself.

Thanks pat331, I'll check into it!

 

[jmann]

Sure enough, the crack is in the line itself. Now I have to see if its cheaper/better to hire a weld job or buy a new line. The parts diagram on an L175 (mine is L1500dt, but equivalent) show three options depending on serial, so I'm unsure which one (is vick around?): 34150-38210 or 34159-38215 or 34159-38217. Quite a diff in price, so if its the cheaper one, I may just get a new line. Anybody know for sure?

 

[jmann]

In case it makes a diff, here's a pic. The line is one solid line from pump to 3-point... no bracket or block as in some diagrams.

 

[jmann]

One additional note in case it matters ... I have an imprint on my tractor: L1500DT-18777 which I assume is a serial?

 

[jmann]

I knew you would know, Vic. Thank you much!

 

[jmann]

My parts people just said they could longer get that particular part number. I'm going to go ahead with the weld fix for now and replace O-rings/gaskets, but I'd be interested in a price quote if you (Vic) can get a new one. I'm thinking that the shaking on line over the years will cause cracking at the weaker points, including a weld. We'll see.

 

[jmann]

Update: line welded and hydraulics work GREAT!

 

[Butch]

My line went on the B2410. I replaced it, however I did weld the old line as a back up. Instead of brazing it... the welder brazed it with silver solder. The same used on high pressure refrigeration lines. Let's all hope I have to never use it.

In my research it appears silver solder is more robust than brazing. I would be interested in hearing what the folks on OTT has to say about this. Later all! Butch

 

[Kytim]

My line went on the B2410.

In my research it appears silver solder is more robust than brazing. I would be interested in hearing what the folks on OTT has to say about this. Later all! Butch

That is correct, a 15% silver alloy is very strong. While a *Hot* torch is required it will create a weld that will likely out last the line. when welding steel lines a liquid/paste flux is required but will even allow you to weld copper to steel if needed. The 15% can even weld dirty copper tubeing and pipe without cleanup, no flux needed. 6% alloy, while a little cheaper requires more complete cleanup and careful fitting. Very large lines are capable of being welded. although a exponential increase in heat is needed as well.

A 45% alloy is available. with the proper flux, even a hand held Mapp gas torch will weld up to 5/8inch pipeing. Although, paying for a repair may be more cost effective than buying 45 alloy. It is purchased by the ounce!!

Kytim