Got the l1500 running today!

[xmikew]

You can just throw it in a can and soak it in PB Blaster for a while. They sell it in quart (pour) cans. Just leave it soaking for several days and it should break loose.


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I ran with one I couldn't free/adjust today and got some tire rubbing here and there when turning. Ordered some new ones but they didn't fit so will get it eventually!

So first time running her all out was good! Couple of issues.

I need to learn how to set the depth adjuster on the three point. Was all over the place brush hogging today.

Bluish smoke under load here and there? Not much. Just saw it when the background was the trees. Sometimes a little black under load. But I would expect black not bluish. This was after she was warmed up.

Somehow both my shifters are leaking a not insignificant amount of trans fluid after running for about 15 minutes. Seems like both of them but i replaced one boot under the shifter and the other was fine when I was in the transmission recently! Yargh. For today just took a rag with me and kept soaking it up! Going to fix that one asap!

Reverse is tricky on this ol girl! Two speeds. Too slow or hang on to you butt!!!

 

[Russell King]

Ok great that you have gotten to use it!
For the leak around the shifters, there is a vent that is probably plugged up. I believe it is a small tube that looks like a question mark shape laying on its side. Look on the left (sitting in seat) side under the seat at top of the transmission. If it is like my L185 you can unscrew it and clean it with some wire or a small brush.

For the keeping the shredder at the same height, you can use the knob under the seat to lock it from moving down and then avoid raising it at all. If that doesn't work you can chain it in position using some point near where you attach the upper link.
I assume you have some slack in the upper link to let the shredder flex over the uneven terrain?


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[xmikew]

Ok great that you have gotten to use it!
For the leak around the shifters, there is a vent that is probably plugged up. I believe it is a small tube that looks like a question mark shape laying on its side. Look on the left (sitting in seat) side under the seat at top of the transmission. If it is like my L185 you can unscrew it and clean it with some wire or a small brush.

For the keeping the shredder at the same height, you can use the knob under the seat to lock it from moving down and then avoid raising it at all. If that doesn't work you can chain it in position using some point near where you attach the upper link.
I assume you have some slack in the upper link to let the shredder flex over the uneven terrain?


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Thanks Russell -- i'll have to go see if I can find that vent, that seems promising since I know those boots are good, and both of them leaking seems odd. Would not have thought of that one.

The brush hog has a bracket that pivots on it to give it a little play -- I read much on this but am still confused. Seems the options are:

1. Use a chain for top link - some say this is dangerous
2. Use a top link that goes in and out. I don't have one
3. Make it so the "A" frame of the brush hog pivots, no thanks, don't want to modify the brush hog anymore

My brush hog has a bracket at the top link connection that gives it a little bit of play but not a whole lot. Thinking about it, I think i might have it connected upside down. If the bracket were pointing up it would have a lot more play -- that's how much finish mower is although the brackets are different and definitely assigned to be up. Not sure my top link would make that reach though on the brush hog. Doesn't seem right on second thought... On my brush hog thread, you can see the top link connection, i added it here.

 

[billrigsby]

Thanks Russell -- i'll have to go see if I can find that vent, that seems promising since I know those boots are good, and both of them leaking seems odd. Would not have thought of that one.

The brush hog has a bracket that pivots on it to give it a little play -- I read much on this but am still confused. Seems the options are:

1. Use a chain for top link - some say this is dangerous
2. Use a top link that goes in and out. I don't have one
3. Make it so the "A" frame of the brush hog pivots, no thanks, don't want to modify the brush hog anymore

The vent on a 1500 is in the cap. make sure the small pin hole is clear.

If yours is like mine and that knob will not actually stop the three-point from lowering due to wear, and you don't want to rebuild the whole thing then you need to.......

Use adjustable limiter chains, I need to make a set, see the link for a drawing

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Limiter-Chains.pdf

Or buy a set.......

https://www.stevenstractor.com/farm-equipment-parts/chain-limiter-kit.html

 

[xmikew]

The vent on a 1500 is in the cap. make sure the small pin hole is clear.

If yours is like mine and that knob will not actually stop the three-point from lowering due to wear, and you don't want to rebuild the whole thing then you need to.......



Use adjustable limiter chains, I need to make a set, see the link for a drawing

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Limiter-Chains.pdf



Or buy a set.......



https://www.stevenstractor.com/farm-equipment-parts/chain-limiter-kit.html

Thanks I'll go check the cap. So the physics are? Gears are turning and splashing fluid up on shifter boots. As oil heats up air expands and pressure rises. Since I think the vent is probably plugged pressure builds and pushes the fluid that is splashed on the boots up and out?

As far as the 3pt lock I have not tried. I set the brush hog level but over uneven terrain sometimes the side skirts dig in and I raise the brush hog a little. I think maybe it will be easier once I get the big stuff knocked down. Nice to know about the limiters as option

Also sometimes there is a small amount of grinding switching gears. Even when I'm as full stop. Is this because the brush hog is spinning? It's not bad but wondering if normal. Not sure if it follows certain gears yet.

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[Russell King]

The top link looks like it s set up fine. It will not change anything about the digging in. I'll try to explain it so hopefully this will be clear enough to explain. If not ask questions please.
The 3PH lower arms are what holds the front up. The rear wheel(s) hold up the rear. The top link could be removed as long as you don't want to pick up the implement. (Don't take it off though since you may want to raise it in difficult situations).
When your front wheels go down (like into a ditch) the tractor pivots around the rear wheels and lifts the implements front through the lower arms.
When your rear wheels go down (like into a ditch) the front of the mower is driven down also through the arms.
If the front wheels are going up over a rise the implement front is lowered.
So if a ditch is fairly narrow the front wheels are going up, the rear wheels are going down and the front of the implement is moved far down.

Now think about going over the crest of a steep hill (both sides steep)
If your top link was loose it would not get too involved with the implement.
If it was tight when the front wheels drop the top link would get stretched and pick up the rear wheel.

You may need to change the patterns you mow to avoid dragging your mower or lift it as you go through the area. That is a problem with the 3PH system really

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[Russell King]

On the gear grinding
Yes that is from the mower driving the PTO shafts and making the other gears turn some. I have same problem but not much can be done other than just waiting for them to slow down and that is too much trouble when mowing.

I am assuming you are not shifting gears like in a standard car but just stopping to change gears to adjust ground speed


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[xmikew]

On the gear grinding
Yes that is from the mower driving the PTO shafts and making the other gears turn some. I have same problem but not much can be done other than just waiting for them to slow down and that is too much trouble when mowing.

I am assuming you are not shifting gears like in a standard car but just stopping to change gears to adjust ground speed


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Thanks Russell for the information. The top link setup is tricky. I cut for an hour or so today and was a little better not riding the 3pt lever. I was watching the top link some and it was definitely allowing a little movement but not much. A couple times I dug in going through a small depression and lost traction. Had to raise it up.

It's hard to get the top link just right. When I raise the hog up all the way the back tire is barely off the ground. I'm thinking I might need to shorten my top link a little so I get a higher angle. Doing so would reduce flex over crests though. I'm relatively flat here anyway. Just some unlevel ground here and there.

Anyway. I think just something I need to play with. She definitely ran good for me again! Loving it.

Also, clearing the vent in the cap on trans fixed the oil leak. No sopping it up while I was brush hogging today! Thanks for the pointer on that!

Also found the hog was leaking oil from drain plug. It was loose! Can't get much easier than that.

Couple times hog was vibrating and there was organic debris getting jammed between the blade bolt and the blade preventing them from pivoting. Had to unjam them.

Don't care if people say spinners are dangerous! Added one and love it. Just keep my hand on top and the other clear!

Also not car shifting. Pick and go. Usually 4 low through thick. 1h through medium or the strip in front of the bees!

Thanks all for the advice!

 

[Russell King]

Try to move the tractor end of the upper link. Put it in a lower hole and loosen it back up. I think you will see the rear lift higher.

I may have it backwards (upper instead of lower?) so just keep experimenting and see what works best


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[xmikew]

Try to move the tractor end of the upper link. Put it in a lower hole and loosen it back up. I think you will see the rear lift higher.

I may have it backwards (upper instead of lower?) so just keep experimenting and see what works best


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Haha I went through the same thought process when I was setting it. I chose the bottom hole. Makes sense in my mind the angle would be greater between the ground and brush hog.

Thanks!

- Mike

 

[xmikew]

Came back to the thread for an update and hopefully get some input.

Welder neighbor welded flat tip screw driver on my tach drive so now have tach and hour meter again!

I still have no garage and there is some condensation under the glass after rain. Is there a way I should reseal the tach meter?

It's getting close to winter and need to get back on getting antifreeze in the cooling system.

If jkk is still around wondering how he added that overfill bottle. How is the overflow hose added if there is no place for one? Do you have to drill a hole in the radiator neck?

Thanks!

- Mike

 

[jkk04]

Came back to the thread for an update and hopefully get some input.

Welder neighbor welded flat tip screw driver on my tach drive so now have tach and hour meter again!

I still have no garage and there is some condensation under the glass after rain. Is there a way I should reseal the tach meter?

It's getting close to winter and need to get back on getting antifreeze in the cooling system.

If jkk is still around wondering how he added that overfill bottle. How is the overflow hose added if there is no place for one? Do you have to drill a hole in the radiator neck?

Thanks!

- Mike

Great fixing the tech driver.

I just removed original over flow hose then replaced 3/8" clear hose to a bottle(attached the bracket for bottle with pop rivets).
The extra hose in the middle section was for protecting from rubbing.

Jkk
(I was so busy to cleaning the property before winter raining season
)

 

[coachgeo]

nice job... looks great

 

[xmikew]

Great fixing the tech driver.

I just removed original over flow hose then replaced 3/8" clear hose to a bottle(attached the bracket for bottle with pop rivets).
The extra hose in the middle section was for protecting from rubbing.

Jkk
(I was so busy to cleaning the property before winter raining season
)

Yea. Thanks jkk! Must have been tired when I asked! Without a temp gauge worried about disabling the whistle. Think I'll implement this upgrade after I add a cluster of gauges like bill did.

Been so busy only seat time in last months has been moving a guinea fowl coop... will be glad to get back on her.

Thanks!

- Mike