Factory Rear remotes vs roll your own

[NateRM]

I'm looking at a new tractor, L3560 with hopefully a woods BH80x backhoe I have over 3000ft of driveway to maintain. While I've never used a box blade or rear blade on my other tractor, my buddy has brought his out and I've seen him in action with it. I want to do top and tilt and consider doing the factory rear remotes, 2 double acting valves, 1 float bit at 1800 that seams kinda steep to me. I'm very mechanically inclined and have a basic understand of the hydraulic flow and what needs to be done to add remotes. Go factory or make my own? Is the factory remotes really worth that?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One of the big factors of getting the factory rear remotes is that they are integrated in with the tractor design. So the control levers are going to be in the slots by the 3pt hitch control. Look great all nice and tidy.

Not that you can't do that with 3rd party valves, but it is going to be a lot of work to have the valves out of sight and the control levers coming up through the factory slots.

A couple of things to keep in mind, you may find that you want 2 valves with the float feature for the top & tilt set.

As of late, (60 series) there have been many more reported problems concerning internal valve leakage which allows the cylinders to drift. If you end up going with the Kubota rear remotes, you may want to get the dealer to put in writing that any and all valve problems will be remedied. I say in writing, because many dealers refuse to deal with the problem and fall back on, "just the way they are" for an answer.

If you go with after market valves, same thing applies, all valves are not created equal and you get what you pay for. Go cheap, expect internal leakage and THAT IS HOW MANY OF THEM ARE.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[NateRM]

Thanks mntviewranch, I should have mentioned I did a search and read up on some things. One of those being you saying about the 60 series leakage. While factory appearance would be nice I'm more interested in buying what works like it's suppose. Nothing worse then spending money on something that doesn't do what it's designed to do, excpecially when it cost more. I wasn't sure what the chances of getting bad factory valves was. So you think my chances of aftermarket leaking are the same as factory even if I go with a more top of the line valve? Any suggestions on a good 4 spool valve then? I'd rather spend the money knowing it ain't going to leak. This is my life time tractor so I'd rather do it right.

One of the big factors of getting the factory rear remotes is that they are integrated in with the tractor design. So the control levers are going to be in the slots by the 3pt hitch control. Look great all nice and tidy.

Not that you can't do that with 3rd party valves, but it is going to be a lot of work to have the valves out of sight and the control levers coming up through the factory slots.

A couple of things to keep in mind, you may find that you want 2 valves with the float feature for the top & tilt set.

As of late, (60 series) there have been many more reported problems concerning internal valve leakage which allows the cylinders to drift. If you end up going with the Kubota rear remotes, you may want to get the dealer to put in writing that any and all valve problems will be remedied. I say in writing, because many dealers refuse to deal with the problem and fall back on, "just the way they are" for an answer.

If you go with after market valves, same thing applies, all valves are not created equal and you get what you pay for. Go cheap, expect internal leakage and THAT IS HOW MANY OF THEM ARE.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks mntviewranch, I should have mentioned I did a search and read up on some things. One of those being you saying about the 60 series leakage. While factory appearance would be nice I'm more interested in buying what works like it's suppose. Nothing worse then spending money on something that doesn't do what it's designed to do, excpecially when it cost more. I wasn't sure what the chances of getting bad factory valves was. So you think my chances of aftermarket leaking are the same as factory even if I go with a more top of the line valve? Any suggestions on a good 4 spool valve then? I'd rather spend the money knowing it ain't going to leak. This is my life time tractor so I'd rather do it right.

Some of the less costly valves may or may not be so good, quality control-tolerances are not kept as well. It is possible to get a near perfect unit, but then the next one not so much.

Bucher 12 GPM stacking valves. 2 with the float feature, 2 spring return to center, (std double acting valves) NEVER had a problem with these. I figure that if a rod extends more than 1/4" per hour, then something is wrong. On a 2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/4" dia rod, that equals what Bucher's allowable leakage is.

Have NEVER seen or heard of one of their valves leaking that bad. My side link will drop 1/8" in one hour with a 1000lb implement attached, but that is with an overall larger system than we are talking about for you.

 

[NateRM]

Awesome thank you, I'll look into them once I'm ready to add it this winter. I've read where some guys where going 3/8 for there hose size. Even with a 4 spool set up will 3/8 do from the power beyond on the loader valve