Bent 60" Mid Mount Mower Blade - Also chipped inside edge of frame

[JayOrange]

Mowed over stump... was going between stumps (line if staggered stumps in yard) and didn't realize one was under grass clippings. I really need to get get stump grinder for a day and them out but I digress.

The blade (opposite the discharge) bent. Not enough to see but they still feel solidly connected so I'm hoping it is just a bent blade.

This blade and center one get stuck when spinning one way (reverse I think) and they clip the other and the side blade goes into edge of frame where it chipped/peeled some of the lower inner part.

Should I just bring to local dealer and see what they say?

Can I assume it's just the blade and buy replacement? That seems easy and inexpensive. But I'm scared that the edge of frame that now has metal peeled back will get in the way. Not sure how to approach fixing that. I want that fixed regardless so I can avoid cutting myself in the future.

Any and all help appreciated. I feel like an idiot. I really hope it isn't something worse than bent blade.

 

[Dave_eng]

You should buy a new set of 3 blades as you will need at least one or two anyway and with three new ones your diagnosis of the damage will be the best.

Grind off any metal protruding inside the mower housing. If the grinding leaves a tiny gap in the housing it is of no consequence. If you dont have a grinder, use two hammers to pound the "peel back" flat. One hammer on the outside to hold where you will do the pounding with the other.

You will do the best job by taking the mower off and turning it upside down.

Remove the three blades and install the new ones one at a time. Be certain to torque the retaining bolts adequately.

Once a blade is on, rotate it by hand while measuring the distance to the mower housing above the blade in the same location. This will show you if the blade is turning in a flat plane. If the spindle for the blade is bent the blade will not stay flat as you rotate it.

Do this for each blade.

With all three blades in place, rotate them until their tips are close together. They should be at the same level. The center blade's support is further forward or backward than the outer two blades so they should never touch each other while rotating. The drive belt should slip enough to allow you to hold one blade stationary while turning the adjacent blade to line them up in order to check for any bent parts.

If this all checks out you should be good to go.

Dave M7040

 

[JayOrange]

That sounds simple enough.

They are only $20 each or so it seems. How can I be sure it is the blade bent and not something else? I suppose once the new blades are on and they don't hit one another. But just curious if any other damage could have been do that I should check for.

Once I pound the peel back flat... any type of adhesive or something I can stick down there to keep them down and cover sharp bits? I don't have grinder so that's the technique I'll be using.

I will definitely just take mower off. I guess I can clean off all the caked on grass while I'm at it.

Any other maintenance to do while it's off and flipped over? Only used this for 20 hours. Can't believe I screwed something up so quickly lol.

I think it'll be a good learning experience anyway since will need to take blades off to sharpen at end of year anyhow. Same with taking whole mowing out and cleaning it.

Thanks for help.

Any idea what blades are for the BX2370 60" midmount?

And I see that there are also mulching blades too. I wonder if those are worth getting?

 

[85Hokie]

That sounds simple enough.

They are only $20 each or so it seems. How can I be sure it is the blade bent and not something else? I suppose once the new blades are on and they don't hit one another. But just curious if any other damage could have been do that I should check for.

Once I pound the peel back flat... any type of adhesive or something I can stick down there to keep them down and cover sharp bits? I don't have grinder so that's the technique I'll be using.

I will definitely just take mower off. I guess I can clean off all the caked on grass while I'm at it.

Any other maintenance to do while it's off and flipped over? Only used this for 20 hours. Can't believe I screwed something up so quickly lol.

I think it'll be a good learning experience anyway since will need to take blades off to sharpen at end of year anyhow. Same with taking whole mowing out and cleaning it.

Thanks for help.

Any idea what blades are for the BX2370 60" midmount?

And I see that there are also mulching blades too. I wonder if those are worth getting?

Dave gave you excellent advice ....follow it through....

once you are satisfied - grease the hell out of it ....spindles take more than you think they should. Grease the wheels too!

My athletic director once hit a 16 pound shot put that was on the football/soccer field.....NOW that was a bent blade......on a zero turn but that blade was ugly!

O ....another thing ....make sure your underside DOES NOT look like this!

 

[Dave_eng]

When you buy the three new blades, note how they stack neatly one on top of the other. Like spoons in a drawer.
If you put your old blades into the stack of new blades one at a time, a bent blade will not stack nicely so before you even start doing any investigation you have a good idea how bent or, if it is bent, a blade is.

The blades are going to be made by a prominent company like Oregon, the chain saw chain people. Often on Amazon.com you can search for blades for a particular mower.

https://oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide_bladelookup.aspx

Remember blade length is not measured end to end but diagonally sharp tip to sharp tip. A small difference in length (shorter) does not seem to be important. You may have a 25" blade and 20 years later find it is no longer made and the recommended replacement blade is 24 7/8"

The peeled back area is only a risk to cutting your fingers when handling the deck. If you can get the metal clean enough an epoxy type material like JB Weld will smooth out the sharp bits.

I have Oregon's Gator or mulching blades on one of my three or four bigger mowers and don't find them to be a miracle solution. Waiting until the grass is dry or cutting frequently is more effective.

On a new blade you will find numbers stamped into the metal. On old blades the number is still there but need a good wire brushing to clean out the stamped numbers and make them visible.

I am not saying this with authority but know with attachments like snowblowers, Kubota buys them from North American manufacturers who paint the blower different colors for different manufacturers. Mowers may be the same.

Getting the center bolt out can be a challenge to new owners. Get a 1/2" drive socket, preferably six point (this refers to the fit between the bolt head and the socket) and a power bar or long bar. A six point socket will have obviously flat sides on the inside whereas the alternate is a 12 point which will look busy inside with many corners. The six point socket is far less likely to round off the bolt head.

Don't go at the bolt with vice grips, an ill fitting wrench or a metric socket when you need an SAE North American socket.. rounding off the head of the nut can become a disaster for a new owner.

Please let us know if you have more challenges or are successful as we all learn in this process of sharing.

Dave M7040

 

[skeets]

85, ya mean I have to clean my under deck? GEZZZZZZZ
And the best thing to do with a bent blade is get a good hot fire going, stick it in, get it toasty red hot then beat the snot out of it making it straight, then grind it down to make a chopper out of it, or something easier, just toss it in the trash

 

[JayOrange]

Thanks for help guys.

I reached to Barlow at same time I made this post (this is where I bought the tractor) and they mentioned that considering the blades catch and the one hits the inside of frame that perhaps it isn't just a bent blade but something happened to the spindle.

Anyway to verify this is or isn't the case because taking the blades off?

Also, how difficult is replacing the spindle if that is the issue (I imagine it'll be an issue in addition to a potentially bent blade).

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Mount one of your non bent blades to tgat spindle and make sure it doesn't hit anything. The spindle should move pretty free as long as you dont have anything holding it. A belt or the ground, etc.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Blade should have slipped,not bend the shaft. Unless it uses the star pattern hub. By loosening belt and spinning spindle you should see a bend.

When loosening blades, grab a 2x4 to wedge blade in such a way to prevent it from turning. It will save your hands. And same to tighten. It seems if you have both hands on the tool, its less likely you will injure yourself.