B7100 Battery connected backwards!

[Marndin]

Hi all

I 'stupidly' connected the battery the wrong way round (briefly) i.e. positive to negative and vice versa. There was a spark as the lead touched the battery terminal. I immediately took the lead away.

I then fitted the battery the correct way round and there's no power. No red light when you turn the key.

I am hoping that it's a fuse issue but I can't find one.

Any help/suggestions with this would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Martin

 

[Aluthin]

http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...s/&AutoIndex=b8cd2e3923bdb54b2be307647ce0c1b4 for the manuals if you haven't got them, other than that my b6000 fuses were inline holders behind the dash right off the switch.

Hope that helps other than that if you have a voltage meter check your battery and then check from the key switch forward along the connections until you find were the power isn't. The manuals have a wiring diagram.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[85Hokie]

Hi all

I 'stupidly' connected the battery the wrong way round (briefly) i.e. positive to negative and vice versa. There was a spark as the lead touched the battery terminal. I immediately took the lead away.

I then fitted the battery the correct way round and there's no power. No red light when you turn the key.

I am hoping that it's a fuse issue but I can't find one.

Any help/suggestions with this would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Martin

See if this helps on the electrical diagram......(yours geared or HST? - old or new style (4 bolt front end or 6 bolt?)
There are a couple of places you could have "cooked"

 

[Marndin]

Many thanks for the replies. I am not at home right now and will get back to you re the actual model.

 

[Marndin]

See if this helps on the electrical diagram......(yours geared or HST? - old or new style (4 bolt front end or 6 bolt?)
There are a couple of places you could have "cooked"

It's actually a B7100 HE and according to my father-in-law it's HST. I haven't been able to identify whether it's an old or new style. Where are the 4 or 6 bolts that you mentioned?

Thanks again

Martin

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's actually a B7100 HE and according to my father-in-law it's HST. I haven't been able to identify whether it's an old or new style. Where are the 4 or 6 bolts that you mentioned?

Thanks again

Martin

The 4 or 6 bolts will be the the ones holding on the front wheels / rims.

 

[Repair]

The 4 or 6 bolts will be the the ones holding on the front wheels / rims.

Wolfman you are such a helper and I noticed that you have posted 11,441 times

Assuming you only spend 1 min on each post you have spend almost 191 hours....that is almost 8 straight days making posts......that is dedication.

I want to say thanks!

 

[Marndin]

The 4 or 6 bolts will be the the ones holding on the front wheels / rims.

I would also like to say a big thank you.

 

[100 td]

Wolfman you are such a helper and I noticed that you have posted 11,441 times
Assuming you only spend 1 min on each post you have spend almost 191 hours....that is almost 8 straight days making posts......that is dedication

If only it was 1 minute per post? A lot of his replies are very detailed and even if he was a proficient typist/cutter/paster, I expect he spends a lot more time here helping anybody/everybody.
THANKS!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry, didn't read the entire post before I posted earlier.

B7100HSTE or also called B7100HE is a 2wd and only came with 4 bolt front hubs new and old version.

Ok now onto the issue at hand, Yes it a B7100HSTE new version, Serial Number told me.

Now as far as a fuse or anything else, there is none on that model.
It could be a bad connection or it could be a burnt wire, use a simple test light to first check if you have ground to the frame, connect clip side to battery + and probe frame and motor for ground.
Change to clip to ground, then go to the starter and check for power to the large terminal, if so then work up to the switch.

 

[Marndin]

Update:

Sorry for the delay. I have started to check voltage/continuity and here is what I have discovered so far.

Battery is showing 12.78V

As far as I can see from the wiring diagram I should get battery voltage from one of the treminals of the connector block in line with the alternator. But I don't. Here's what I get:

Pin 1 top left (Black) - 0V
Pin 2 top Mid (White/Red) - 0.27V
Pin 3 top right - cable not connected (White) - (Blue Circle in picture) - 0.48V
Pin 4 bottom left - (Black) - 1.05V
Pin 5 bottom mid - (White/Black) - 0.24V
Pin 6 bottom right - (White/Green) - 0.02V

The smaller end is at the bottom.i.e the grooves for the two connector blocks to join together.

Not sure what this means but as I said shouldn't I get battery voltage from one of the terminals?

Thank you so much for your time

Martin

 

[thebicman]

The way I see it you should get battery voltage at one terminal of your starter. The 12v wire on the starter should have a smaller wire that feeds your ignition switch. If you don't have 12vdv at the starter there's where you start your troubleshooting.

 

[100 td]

As a follow on to thebicmans post, you need power on the SOLID wire from starter to the IGN switch terminal 30. Generally there is a fusible link in that wire, but the diagram doesn't show one.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Martin,
Added your pic for clarity of others.
Let me see if I can clear some things up for you.
What you are picturing and measuring is an add on alternator (that alternator and that wiring will not show in the standard wiring schematic, it's an optional add on) and the wiring that your checking is the regulator wiring for the alternator, has nothing to do with it starting.
There should be power on whatever color wire that is with the red on the back of the alternator leading back to the regulator.
The starter and it's wiring is on the left rear bottom side of the motor.
Check it for burnt wires.
There is 2 wire connections on the starter, one is power in and out back to the dash and alternator in this case.
the other wire is to the starter solenoid that comes from the safety switches and back to the key switch.

 

[Marndin]

I can't really see what's going on under the dashboard. So I have decided to remove the steering wheel so that I can lift the dashboard up and turn it over to access and troubleshoot the electrics.

Anyone have a suggestion on the easiest way of removing the steering wheel. It's rock solid on there at the moment.

I have tried a three arm puller but the arms keep slipping off of the underneath ledge.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks again

Martin

 

[Marndin]

I would like to thank anyone who offered advice with my Kubota B7100 issue. Particularly Wolfman!

I have not been able to absolutely pin point the problem, but I believe that connecting the battery the wrong way round created heat with the main switch connection (30 on the wiring diagram), and this caused the old (and corroded connections) to fail due to heat (maybe).

I removed the steering wheel in order to access the wiring underneath. This turned out to be very much more difficult than I anticipated, and ended up using huge force from a more expensive 3 legged puller after making a metal plate that fitted under the steering wheel to take the pressure of the puller.

With the steering wheel removed I was then able to lift the control panel off of the steering column, turn it over and check the wiring.

I dicovered that the main two connections to the ignition switch (30 on the wiring diagram) were VERY corroded. I reconnected them to new contacts.

Reassembled everything and it works!

Thank you again