L2850 GST- clutch/transmission issues

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't know if that assembly is available, if it was I would buy the whole thing if and only if you tear your old clutch assembly apart and discover badly worn or damaged parts.

 

[Snyda88]

Well I got the clutch pack out as you can see in the photos below. Everything measured out just a hair under the factory specs and plenty thicker than the allowable tolerance. Bearing felt good too.

Side note- One thing I did notice as I was slipping things back together was that the fork on the shuttle shaft that connects to the gate valve had a groove worn in it that looked like it was moving the thrust collar squarely and dug into the fork at and angle. The groove is 0.42mm deep. Might explain why the shuttle shifter was harder shifting into the forward position. I'll probably order a new one for good measure.

But otherwise nothing glaringly obvious that I was hoping for.

I guess maybe I'll order the mechanical clutch and put that in and see if that improves things but I'm at a bit of a loss here.


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Where is the insides of the clutch drum and the seals?
That's the part that will be bad!
You need to break the rest of the clutch apart.

The 2 feed seals (30) have very tight tolerances.
The O-ring (60) is important
But the wiper seal (50) will be the most important, if it not smooth and in excellent condition, the clutch pack will be slow to engage.

 

[Snyda88]

Yahtzee! The wiper seal "050" looks pretty ratty by the photos you see below. The o ring "060" has a little play in it but still holds the piston snug around the inner shaft of the clutch hub.

I checked the feed seals in the first go around and they were still within factory specs.

Nothing like a $17 o ring to ruin the party...

I'm going to replace all 4 seals/o rings for good measure.

Also, i have TSC Traveller hydro fluid in there. I know I'm opening Pandora's box here and there's plenty of threads on the topic, but will UDT make tremendous difference for the money spent?

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

TAAAAA DAAAA!!!!!!

There is your entire problem in a nutshell!

Mystik JT5 is an excellent fluid for use in your GST, that's all I've run in mine for years! and yes it is a UDT fluid, just much cheaper than Kubota's brand.

 

[Snyda88]

I'm on the east coast here and the best I can do is about $33 for a 2 gallon jug of Mystik at TSC and they would have to bring it in because they don't stock it. Messicks sells udt for $79/5 gallon.

This stuff is $35/5 gallon and in stock at my TSC.
Says UDT right on the back but I've only had it in there for all of maybe a month and a half before this crisis occurred. So who knows if it's a deal or just TSC branded junk.

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[Repair]

Yahtzee! The wiper seal "050" looks pretty ratty by the photos you see below. The o ring "060" has a little play in it but still holds the piston snug around the inner shaft of the clutch hub.

I checked the feed seals in the first go around and they were still within factory specs.

Nothing like a $17 o ring to ruin the party...

I'm going to replace all 4 seals/o rings for good measure.

Also, i have TSC Traveller hydro fluid in there. I know I'm opening Pandora's box here and there's plenty of threads on the topic, but will UDT make tremendous difference for the money spent?

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I rebuilt transmissions for 20 years and I have seen that before......trouble!

 

[sjones]

Saw where you were wondering my outcome with my l2550. After reading yours I am beginning to wonder if my problem isn't in the hyd clutch also. Interested to see what you find out. My main clutch was about the same shape as yours.

 

[Snyda88]

I just ordered the parts last night. So it will be next weekend before I can give a status update.

I will warn you, you'll wind up having to drop the whole transmission out and separate it from the mid case to get the hydraulic clutch out.

Take a gander below if you're curious...

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[sjones]

Was curious how you had came along on this

 

[Snyda88]

I had a setback last week when i botched a bearing trying to put the mid case and transmission back together. Just got the new bearing and got it installed and got the transmission bolted back on and the two halves back together. Now I have to put all the other items back together associated with splitting the tractor. I hope to be able get finished by tomorrow and see how it all worked out. I'll be sure to post a follow up.


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[Snyda88]

****UPDATE***

Tractor shifts like a champ now, no slipping and I actually got to experience 8th gear! (Before it just stalled out when I even thought about shifting above 7th). All in all I think she definitely got some life breathed back into her. I hooked up the loader and it seems to behave just as well.

I'm still having an issue with it not starting even after replacing the alternator but that's going to be the topic of a new post.

Additionally I took it up the lane a little bit and above 6th gear the front end has a death wobble. Again another topic for another post.

Big thanks to Wolfman again. Without his insight this job would not have been a success.


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glad to hear it's back up and running.
Yes dive into the other issues and we can help with those too!

 

[sjones]

Well thats good to know. Guess i need to do the same did you totally redo the hydraulic clutch or just replace the seals and not the plates

 

[Snyda88]

I just did the seals, the plates were well within tolerance. Oddly enough there was an extra clutch plate in the pack, I have no idea how but I checked the manual and parts list and I came up with an extra one.

Heads up, better have a pretty decent pair of snap ring pliers to get the internal snap ring off the hydro clutch pack. Another tip to remove the plate with the large gasket in the clutch pack is to use 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the speed change housing to the side of the tranny. They are the correct thread pitch and make pulling it out a breeze.

Aside from splitting the tractor it's a relatively inexpensive and easy fix. Just make sure you order new mounting gaskets for both sides of the mid case.

Messicks was the source for my parts. Took them about a week to get them in before they shipped them out to me.


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[sjones]

Im hoping i can split right at the back of the transmission case this time instead of taking it all the way down. Since my dry clutch is already replaced id just as soon not split up front if i dont have to. Which unless im missing something looks like i shouldnt have to

 

[Snyda88]

Makes sense to me, I did the whole kit and caboodle which is why I dropped the tranny completely. Better have a box end wrench for that mid case!

Two more tips for reassembly:

1. When bolting the mid case to the tranny make sure the shaft that rides on that bearing in the mid case is aligned correctly because the inner race is pressed onto the shaft and it's very easy to mess up the roller retainer on the bearing. See the photo below for the outcome of that mistake.

2. When bolting the mid case back up to the rear you can use the mid point pto shaft and the front drive shaft spline to align the shafts that mate up in the mid case to the rear by spinning those two aforementioned shafts. Should have seen me scratching my head until I figured one out.

As you get into it feel free to post or message me with any questions



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[sjones]

Got my clutch out took snap ring off but wasnt seeing how it broke apart the rest of the way

 

[Snyda88]

Take a look at the photo below as well as the diagrams the Wolfman posted above. I did the same thing you did. You'll have to completely tear the clutch pack down. That's the only way you'll get to the o-ring that is the culprit.

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[sjones]

How did you seperate the bearing from clutch pack dont want to do something to damage anything