First Time Owner - What Should I Look Out For?

[JayOrange]

I have BX2370 with MMM, FEL and Box Blade. I've mowed ~3 acres about 3 times and used the FEL and Box Blade to tree and dig/fix a swale.

I have yet to really do any sort of inspection or maintenance on it other than checking the dipstick.

I also only just realized the manual says to go easier on the machine in first 50 hours so the last 2 times mowing I was in low gear and ~2-2.5K RPMs the entire time. It took longer but actually felt safer going up and down hills in low so likely going to keep doing that. Towards the end when I get inpatient I change to high on flat areas before stopping and switching back to low.

I want to make sure the machine operates well for a long, long time so any advice would be appreciated.

For instance, I'm getting low on fuel. I have a 5 gallon container of diesel I got from my local gas station. However, I'm assuming this is the low sulfur variety. I've heard many say to avoid using this? But I don't know where I'd buy the off-road diesel?

There's a lot to take in as a new tractor owner and really would love to learn from the experience of others. Thanks!

 

[bxray]

You can go in high gear, just keep the rpms down 2.5k is good.
They recomend 75% of full throttle, wot.

Watch for the hst fan getting hit by sticks.

Check fluids and do the 50 h maintenance.

I beleve the fuel tank has a sticker that states low sulfer fuel.

I use it without a problem.
As long as the station sells a lot of it it will be fresh.
And if you do not have one yet, get a good grease gun!



Make sure not to but to much before winter as tou will want the winter mix to prevent from jelling.

There are additives as well to keep algee from growing.
RAY

 

[bucktail]

If you do manage to find off road diesel, it will be ULSD as well. The difference is whether or not you pay road tax. ULSD diesel is less lubricious than diesel with a little sulpher in it. If you're worried about it, there are a number of additives you can add to replace the lubricity.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I believe all diesel is low sulfur per government requirements, and all newer tractors burn low sulfur with no problem. Off road is the same as on the road diesel except with out road taxes and without dye. The dye is just to ensure off road is not used in an on road vehicle as it carries a heavy fine if you are caught, I think it is in the $10,000 range.

 

[Cglaza]

To add lubricity back to the fuel, I would add power service in the silver bottle in the summer and in temps below 30 the winter formula in the white bottle. Otherwise, what everyone else said above is solid advice.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[85Hokie]

To add lubricity back to the fuel, I would add power service in the silver bottle in the summer and in temps below 30 the winter formula in the white bottle. Otherwise, what everyone else said above is solid advice.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What you mentioned is very solid advice too!!! That lub juice helps quite a bit!

 

[JayOrange]

Thanks everyone!

In regards to the 50 hour service: is this something I can perform or should I take it to local dealer? I should probably just Google this to find out.

Good to know I can use the high gear then. I will keep RPMs low. I haven't really found a reason to go above 2.5K RPMs honestly. Seems plenty. I have likely gone done full throttle at times though. But the alternative was potentially going backwards down the hill. I will be more cognizant of it though.

In regards to fuel, that puts my mind at ease! I have a 5 gallon can I filled up a couple weeks back. That's fine to still use right, I'd suspect the fuel lasts a good while in the container (in my garage). I'm not certain how often the gas station sells diesel but I'd suspect a decent amount, I've seen others use it.

I'll put additives back in. Thanks for suggestion for power service. I'll look into buying that.

You guys are awesome.

 

[RCW]

50 hour service on a BX is a piece of cake.

Don't quote me, but seems other guys have paid $300-400 for 50 hour service. Seems steep for me.

What to do can be highly contested. I chose to dump all fluids, including the front axle. Some just do engine oil/filter and replace HST filter, which is what current manual states.

Earlier manuals said replace HST fluid as well.

I probably had ~$140 in supplies to do everything, with some stuff left over. Guessing $90 in hydraulic fluid, $25 in filters, $25 in Rotella.

I also use Power Service additives as others mentioned.

Word of caution; don't be too easy on the throttle. A diesel does not like being lugged down. 2,500 seems good for now. After 225 hours, I mow ~2,900 rpm.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jim L.]

Check tires at beginning of work day. You will get punctures.

Clean the radiator fins often.

Check the temperature gauge closely. Don't get into an overheat.

Enjoy your machine!

 

[RCW]

Good advice Jim.

I should also add choices for fluids and filters can be contentious.

My suggestion is DIESEL engine oil of your choice. I use Shell Rotella T6 5-40. Full synthetic.

Jay - I see you're from New Yorkistan, like me.

Did you get a block heater? I did not. Mine is in an attached garage that rarely gets below 30 or so; the 5w helps on winter starts if you're moving snow.

Many/most guys stick with Kubota SUDT2 hydraulic fluid. Also synthetic. Our forum friend Bulldog also swears by AMSOIL products for all fluids. Bulldog has much more experience than many of us. His recommendation warrants consideration.

Consensus also seems toward sticking with Kubota filters. I do.

Several guys have stuck to all Kubota products during warranty period. Logical, but I did go with Rotella from the first engine oil change.

Figure this would answer your next logical question.

Again, good luck!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kubota BX 1860]

I had a BX 1860 for five years and traded it for a 2370. I changed the hydraulic fluid at 50 hours on the 1860...the stuff that came out looked just as clean as the new stuff I put in. Given the cost of SUDT, I won't do the hydraulics on the 2370. Biggest challenge of the 50 hour service is removing the transmission oil strainer for cleaning without losing all the hydraulic fluid. The rest is duck soup.

These are great tractors. I hope you enjoy it as much as I've enjoyed mine.

 

[scdeerslayer]

There's probably a sticker at your fuel fill that states only Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) can be used, and it should state this in your owner's manual as well. Make sure it says that on the pump. If it's on-road diesel it shouldn't be a problem. There's an off-road diesel pump near me that says it could contain up to 1,000 ppm sulfur, but ULSD is 15 ppm max sulfur, so I can't use that off-road fuel.

Sitting in the container for a couple of weeks shouldn't be an issue.

 

[dfh1977]

Have a gallon of the SUDT 2 and fill up front axels and hydraulic fluid. Had hydraulic fluid at work leak out of industrial mixer and it was foaming before it was empty. Try to have a aftermarket cover to protect the HST fan that also allows you to use MMM with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[outpost22]

Are you the first time owner of a tractor, or just this particular tractor? Just a safety tip if the former. Carry your FEL bucket low. Don't load it up and transport with it higher than the hood. Lower is better. Too many tractors end up on their nose from carrying loads too high, not to mention injuries to their operator. I keep my hand on the joystick when operating so I can drop my load at a moments notice. Just push forward to "float" position. It's saved me a few times in the last 37 years of operation

 

[JayOrange]

50 hour service on a BX is a piece of cake.

Don't quote me, but seems other guys have paid $300-400 for 50 hour service. Seems steep for me.

What to do can be highly contested. I chose to dump all fluids, including the front axle. Some just do engine oil/filter and replace HST filter, which is what current manual states.

Earlier manuals said replace HST fluid as well.

I probably had ~$140 in supplies to do everything, with some stuff left over. Guessing $90 in hydraulic fluid, $25 in filters, $25 in Rotella.

I also use Power Service additives as others mentioned.

Word of caution; don't be too easy on the throttle. A diesel does not like being lugged down. 2,500 seems good for now. After 225 hours, I mow ~2,900 rpm.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That doesn't sound too bad and certainly something I could even do. However, in regards to the warranty, should I be doing these things with a dealer to show it has been done?

Thanks for suggestion on not being too easy. That's also good to know. What about when going down a hill and needing to stop and go backwards. It hasn't happened often but is letting off the throttle on a hill back for the engine at all? The tractor obviously still creeps with gravity.

Check tires at beginning of work day. You will get punctures.

Clean the radiator fins often.

Check the temperature gauge closely. Don't get into an overheat.

Enjoy your machine!

Check tires. I have been doing that. Mainly because found a nail on ground of garage that had fallen from above and now religiously check because don't trust that I won't run something over, somewhere. Are these tires easy to patch (turf)?

Good advice Jim.

I should also add choices for fluids and filters can be contentious.

My suggestion is DIESEL engine oil of your choice. I use Shell Rotella T6 5-40. Full synthetic.

Jay - I see you're from New Yorkistan, like me.

Did you get a block heater? I did not. Mine is in an attached garage that rarely gets below 30 or so; the 5w helps on winter starts if you're moving snow.

Many/most guys stick with Kubota SUDT2 hydraulic fluid. Also synthetic. Our forum friend Bulldog also swears by AMSOIL products for all fluids. Bulldog has much more experience than many of us. His recommendation warrants consideration.

Consensus also seems toward sticking with Kubota filters. I do.

Several guys have stuck to all Kubota products during warranty period. Logical, but I did go with Rotella from the first engine oil change.

Figure this would answer your next logical question.

Again, good luck!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have a block heater. It can get cold but the garage doesn't get much below freezing I don't think. I also plan on getting a space heater to do other work in the garage so perhaps that will help and can used if I have trouble starting?

That oil is what I used on my turbo Subaru! It has treated me well and I wouldn't mind using that for my tractor.

I'll stick with Kubota products otherwise though. The SUDT2 hydraulic fluid and filters. Perhaps even Kubota diesel oil instead of Rotella.

I had a BX 1860 for five years and traded it for a 2370. I changed the hydraulic fluid at 50 hours on the 1860...the stuff that came out looked just as clean as the new stuff I put in. Given the cost of SUDT, I won't do the hydraulics on the 2370. Biggest challenge of the 50 hour service is removing the transmission oil strainer for cleaning without losing all the hydraulic fluid. The rest is duck soup.

These are great tractors. I hope you enjoy it as much as I've enjoyed mine.

Good to know. If not at the 50 hour service then when would you suggest replacing hydraulic fluid?

Have a gallon of the SUDT 2 and fill up front axels and hydraulic fluid. Had hydraulic fluid at work leak out of industrial mixer and it was foaming before it was empty. Try to have a aftermarket cover to protect the HST fan that also allows you to use MMM with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will look into the HST fan cover. There is no cover to begin with? Was this a design flaw or anything? What could happen without protector?

Are you the first time owner of a tractor, or just this particular tractor? Just a safety tip if the former. Carry your FEL bucket low. Don't load it up and transport with it higher than the hood. Lower is better. Too many tractors end up on their nose from carrying loads too high, not to mention injuries to their operator. I keep my hand on the joystick when operating so I can drop my load at a moments notice. Just push forward to "float" position. It's saved me a few times in the last 37 years of operation

First time owner of any tractor.

That is good to know. I certainly will be aware of that. I only just recognized to not keep FEL and BB on while I'm mowing. A combination of not having dolly available to remove and move them and thinking the extra weight could help... but it gives me less mobility and feel LESS stable on some hills and bumps honestly. Plus I'm likely not doing the hydraulics any favors leaving them elevated for 2 hours at a time.




Thanks again for all the help everyone!

 

[Jim L.]

The BX2370 tires are small and easy to take to a shop.

For nails and thorns I have been using Nealey tire repair kit. It's just a big time saver to fix the tire in-place and not go into town.

 

[RCW]

Jay - like I said, there are different opinions on the 50 hour service.

To clean the HST screen, you will need to dump all the hydraulic fluid anyway.....your choice there.

My BX2360 probably sat on a lot a while, so wanted to get rid of any moisture, including the front axle.

The new SUDT2 hydraulic fluid made the HST whine much quieter. In fact, 175 hours later, I'm noticing the HST whine more again, and may change it this fall...

As far as engine oil, just make sure it's diesel certified. I really like the synthetic 5-weight for starting in the winter. Conventional 15w-40 was a stiff start in real cold weather.

If you do your own service, I would keep good records of services done. I hear Kubota may want records if there were a warranty claim.

Don't do what I did ---- I didn't write anything down, other than hours/date on filters when replacing them!

I've had 5 Chevy 1500 Silverados since 1998. Current 2013 has a service interval of 7,500 miles. I do 4-5,000 mile intervals with full synthetic. Some guys may say I'm throwing money away with oil technology, but the dealership REALLY likes my trades on a new one!

In my opinion, fluids are cheap compared to repairs later.

Your mileage may vary.....