Flickering charge light on dash and fuse blowing

[Butch]

Guys this is post worthy because the fix took a left turn at Albuquerque.

On my B2410 I had a 10 A. fuse that would blow occasionally. Thought I had a short. Checked all wiring and switches and everything was fine. After a couple of weeks the fuse blew again.... it is on the head light, dash lights, and fuel sender circuit. I replaced the fuse. I observed and noticed the fuse only blew when the lights were on and then it would take a while of running... but it would eventually blow.

Perplexed (another way of saying pissed off) I went to the shop after dark fired the tractor up in low light conditions... and that is when I saw it... the charge idiot light was barely flickering... no way in the world I would have seen this in daylight. when I turned the lights on it still flickered.

Holy crap I am on to something here. Soooo..... I figured it was the alternator. I slowly went from idle to wide open and watched the charge light vs the RPM's. Bodda-Bing... the charge light barely flickered at idle. At mid-range it got much brighter and at wide open it went back to a flicker.

I was REALLY leaning towards the alternator being the culprit so I went to Stoltzfus Farm Supply in PA and picked up an alternator and an automatic voltage controller (AVR) just in case knowing full well if I broke the seal on the package they could not take it back.

Being lazy I opted to go for the alternator first. when I opened the box, and before I unsealed the alternator I noticed a testing spec sheet for the new alternator. It showed EXACTLY the output of the alternator at assending throttle/RPM's. Damn... using that spec sheet I grabbed an amp meter and checked my old alternator still on the tractor. It performed better that the new one still in the box. So I moved on to the AVR...

I installed the new AVR and that fixed my flickering charge lamp issue and I have not had ANY further issues in blowing fuses. There is one thing in checking the alternator operation, you would think that as the RPM's are increased the Amps would continually rise. It does not. Instead of a steady incline of amps vs RPM's you get a drop at throttle mid-range.... this is just for an FYI.

I hope this helps someone... OTT rocks!

 

[Blondie70]

Good thinking on that job !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Butch]

honestly it was theoretical desperation on my part .... but it worked out for us...

 

[Thechief]

I am having the same problem with an L4310. how do I find out if my tractor has an AVR? I have replaced the alternator and have charging voltage at the alternator but not at the battery. Thanks for you help.

 

[Butch]

I am having the same problem with an L4310. how do I find out if my tractor has an AVR? I have replaced the alternator and have charging voltage at the alternator but not at the battery. Thanks for you help.

It has one for sure... they are usually mounted behind the dashboard display. Took me all of an hour to replace mine.

Pull up the wiring diagram for your tractor to verify existance then ask the good folks here for your machines AVR location. You can pick these up on the internet for about $40 or less... just make sure you cross match the Kubota part number with the replacement unit....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am having the same problem with an L4310. how do I find out if my tractor has an AVR? I have replaced the alternator and have charging voltage at the alternator but not at the battery. Thanks for you help.

You don't have an external AVR on that model it's internal.
Check your wiring, and have the battery load tested.

 

[Butch]

You don't have an external AVR on that model it's internal.
Check your wiring, and have the battery load tested.

Hey Wolf'y..... The AVR is internal to what part of his L tractor? Will it be harf for him to get to it...

 

[100 td]

He means internal to the alternator, like on a car, built in to the back of the alternator.

I have replaced the alternator and have charging voltage at the alternator but not at the battery.

If you have charging voltage ~14V but not at the battery, I expect there is a blown slow blow fuse, or fusible link in the circuit.

 

[Butch]

He means internal to the alternator, like on a car, built in to the back of the alternator.

If you have charging voltage ~14V but not at the battery, I expect there is a blown slow blow fuse, or fusible link in the circuit.

Good point... power to the battery is what perplexed me... It was not a steady 14V... especially at mid RPM range. At mid-RPM range the voltage to the battery was at 3V-5V and the charge light flickered. I knew it was not the battery because I replaced it and the old one was four days older than dirt and on its last legs. Good luck... as it took me some time too!

 

[jlongjohn]

So I want to add, or borrow more like from this thread. I just cleaned and reinstalled my battery, terminals, and ground point on my L35. I bought it used and the wiring was horrible at the battery. It didn't seem to have issues to that point, but lights were very dim and sometimes it was sluggish to crank. After making the wiring better now my battery/charge light comes on at anything above idle. So I was thinking regulator in the alternator, but not sure if I have the AVR external on the L35? Since these are low speed alternators I get why Amps lower at higher rpm, but the voltage should get a bit higher and then become steady and just not go above a level around 12-14v. I have not measured anything yet. Will do later today.

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[Butch]

So I want to add, or borrow more like from this thread. I just cleaned and reinstalled my battery, terminals, and ground point on my L35. I bought it used and the wiring was horrible at the battery. It didn't seem to have issues to that point, but lights were very dim and sometimes it was sluggish to crank. After making the wiring better now my battery/charge light comes on at anything above idle. So I was thinking regulator in the alternator, but not sure if I have the AVR external on the L35? Since these are low speed alternators I get why Amps lower at higher rpm, but the voltage should get a bit higher and then become steady and just not go above a level around 12-14v. I have not measured anything yet. Will do later today.

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You are certainly going the right direction... I was fortunate in that I have had my 2410 since its birth and it has been meticulously maintained so I did not have all the little fixes to do while noodling in on the real culprit... If uou get a chance take a couple pf pics of your alternator... I only know what mine looks like...

Hang in there as we are routing for you!