BX2370 Engine RPM?

[BotaLoda]

Sorry if this has been posted, I couldn't find it in a search. So the manual says not to run it at full speed for the first 50 hours, but it doesn't say what to run it at? So I've been varying it between 2500 and 3000, is that OK (a little late to ask now, it has 14 hours on it). A few times while just driving on level ground hardly any load on the engine I cranked up up full throttle for a little bit.

So when it is broke in, I asked the dealer if I should run it full throttle then and he said no, to run it slower, but I forget what rpm's he said. A good part of me thinks he is wrong on that but I figured I'd ask here.

 

[Pepsiboy]

Sorry if this has been posted, I couldn't find it in a search. So the manual says not to run it at full speed for the first 50 hours, but it doesn't say what to run it at? So I've been varying it between 2500 and 3000, is that OK (a little late to ask now, it has 14 hours on it). A few times while just driving on level ground hardly any load on the engine I cranked up up full throttle for a little bit.

So when it is broke in, I asked the dealer if I should run it full throttle then and he said no, to run it slower, but I forget what rpm's he said. A good part of me thinks he is wrong on that but I figured I'd ask here.

BotaLoda,

I have a BX2350 and I have not run it WOT at all. I did not baby it in the beginning either. I would say like my dealer told me. Run it like you are going to run it. After starting, throttle up to about 1,600 rpm, no need to run WOT, run at 2,000 to 2,600 rpm for loader work, 3,000 rpm for mid mount mower, and 2,000 rpm for rear tiller. He also said these numbers are NOT written in stone. Do not run at a constant rpm for the first 50 hours for more than 15 minutes at a time. Vary rpm for break in.

I have found that mine works best at 3,000 to 3,200 rpm for mowing, depending on how tall the grass and weeds are. Tilling in our rocky soil is best to start out about 2,200rpm so that when it is WORKING it will be at or just below 2,000. For ME, bucket work seems to be best at about 2,500 rpm.

I did the first complete fluid and filter change on engine, hydraulics and front axle at about 50 hours. No metal shavings anywhere, and no contaminated oil. I have changed engine oil and filter every 100 hours after that and hydraulic fluid and filter at about 400 hours. I am now at about 485 hours and getting ready for this summer work on the 5 acres I take care of. I have had no major problems with anything. Had to replace the seals and O rings in the power steering cylinder at about 460 hours. The seals and O rings had gotten hard and worn from normal use. For all the turning I have to do with it, I figure it as normal wear and tear.

My only regret is not getting a cab on it when purchased, BUT, that was NOT in the budget at that time.

Best of luck, I'm sure you will like yours as much or more than I like mine.

Dave

 

[countrynerd]

3200 is pretty close to wide open throttle. But I been running 3k for 12 hours so far being out of power running pro generator. Mowing with 60 inch about 2.5k-2.8k


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[BotaLoda]

Thanks guys. I thought I'd call the factory and I hate to ask and then don't heed someones advice, but they said:
Break in rpm 1350 to 1550.
After that a max of 2400.
???????????????????

I'm bad remembering numbers but I think full throttle on mine goes to about 3400, I'll have to check that again, for just a second. Hell if they are right, something is wrong. I've used heavy equipment before, not a lot but a few times, and they always said when working it hard to run full throttle. Just like a lawnmower type gasoline engine is made to run at 3600 under load. Run them slower and they tend to run hot.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks guys. I thought I'd call the factory and I hate to ask and then don't heed someones advice, but they said:
Break in rpm 1350 to 1550.
After that a max of 2400.
???????????????????

Someone is feeding you B.S. or just plain wrong info!
Max is somewhere in the 3400 RPM range, PTO max should be 3200 RPM, mid or rear.

Break in should be idle and 2500, and just vary RPM so that it does not wear into a pattern.
Running up to max for short periods is fine just don't let it sit there long.

 

[85Hokie]

Someone is feeding you B.S. or just plain wrong info!
Max is somewhere in the 3400 RPM range, PTO max should be 3200 RPM, mid or rear.

Break in should be idle and 2500, and just vary RPM so that it does not wear into a pattern.
Running up to max for short periods is fine just don't let it sit there long.

Bingo!

3400 is easily obtainable -BTDT ! and 3100+a skosh is where the 540 is located!

Those who run around at 2500 on the bx are not doing much work - I find that 3000 rpms is a place that seems to get the best bang for the buck - and yes I have run my ol girl at 3400, purrs like a kitten too!

 

[RCW]

Those who run around at 2500 on the bx are not doing much work - I find that 3000 rpms is a place that seems to get the best bang for the buck

Beg to differ there, Hokester!

Looks like I'm with Pepsiboy.

Mine has never seen WOT, and I seldom look at the tachometer.

I do look at the temp gauge all the time mowing......

For me, it's more about feel and sound. You DON'T want to lug the engine - that's bad for several reasons. If it needs more throttle, it gets it.

Normal/usual stuff, guess I run the snowblower 2,500 or so, probably 2,800+ with the MMM.

Loader work varies probably 2-2,800, depending on what I'm doing.

These engines are meant to run on more RPM than less, so always cheat to the higher RPM's. During break-in vary the throttle often.

 

[BotaLoda]

OK, I'll just keep running it the way I have been.

Anyone ever check the hydro pressure at maybe 2800 and 3400? Does it go higher or just more flow so things work faster?

 

[cerlawson]

Pepsi boy has it right. These ideas of wearing in wrong at one RPM also have no basis. At age 88 and having run all sorts of engines at what ever RPM the job needed, never have there been any maintenance or early failures out of the ordinary. It's plain bunk to baby them. This includes engines after overhaul also. The only expert I would believe on this subject is graduate mechanical engineer with plenty of experience and a professional engineer certificate issued in a USA state. If any of you with the worry worry attitude have that in your resume, speak up.

 

[BotaLoda]

Pepsi boy has it right. These ideas of wearing in wrong at one RPM also have no basis. At age 88 and having run all sorts of engines at what ever RPM the job needed, never have there been any maintenance or early failures out of the ordinary. It's plain bunk to baby them. This includes engines after overhaul also. The only expert I would believe on this subject is graduate mechanical engineer with plenty of experience and a professional engineer certificate issued in a USA state. If any of you with the worry worry attitude have that in your resume, speak up.

So you say to do what I did with my car after rebuilding the engine ... Drive it like I stole it!? It has about 15 hours on it now so it's probably 99% broken in already anyway (the tractor, the car did great with that break in method).

 

[BotaLoda]

Mine has never seen WOT, and I seldom look at the tachometer.

I do look at the temp gauge all the time mowing......

I'm taking a risk of being a newbie here and saying this but ...

Maybe if you ran it a bit faster you wouldn't need to watch the temp gauge all the time!

 

[trapperdrew]

Recommended RPM are now marked on the bx.

 

[RCW]

I'm taking a risk of being a newbie here and saying this but ...



Maybe if you ran it a bit faster you wouldn't need to watch the temp gauge all the time!

You are correct that insufficient RPM can lead to overheating.

When new, my temp gauge read real hot, I think due to bad connection from sending unit, because it wasn't really running hot. Fine since, but I still keep tabs on it.

That's where an infrared thermometer is handy!


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[Orangeglow]

Since the full throttle stop is set up and locked at the factory, I have a pretty good feeling that they know what the safe maximum throttle speed should be. They set it there for a reason.
While blowing snow, or cutting grass, my tach reads 3000 RPM, and everything works great.
Just make sure you give the engine and fluids a chance to warm up properly, before going to your peak rpm.

 

[user4211]

I've run mine at WOT since new. I work at a rental company. Do you think any of our customers care how they break in our engines? We get new RTV900's and they are run full throttle from the time they are new. We sell them with 5100-7000 hrs on them. Engine failure is almost exclusively operator error. (No oil, overhead with plugged radiator). I have never broken in an engine per the manual. Just get on it and go.


2006 rtv900 6250hrs, 2015 bx2370-1 110hrs

 

[BotaLoda]

Recommended RPM are now marked on the bx.

Not on mine. It's a gauge with no redline or PTO mark. The temp and fuel are LCD display.

 

[BotaLoda]

I've run mine at WOT since new. I work at a rental company. Do you think any of our customers care how they break in our engines? We get new RTV900's and they are run full throttle from the time they are new. We sell them with 5100-7000 hrs on them. Engine failure is almost exclusively operator error. (No oil, overhead with plugged radiator). I have never broken in an engine per the manual. Just get on it and go.


2006 rtv900 6250hrs, 2015 bx2370-1 110hrs

I rented one a couple times and the cheap rental company had adjusted the speed so it could only go a certain rpm (which I forget).

 

[trapperdrew]

Not on mine. It's an electronic gauge. Well it does have a red line, but no pto speed indicator.

You are correct.
I was referring to the 80 series BX's. My 2370 didn't have it marked, where my 23S does.

 

[skeets]

Like the man says run it like you stole it, every street motor we built and every MoPar I owned, same same... mash your motor have fun

 

[JackJ]

Recommended RPM are now marked on the bx.

I can't make out the text on the gauge at the 2500 mark--can you tell us what it says?