bad wiring?

[mike l3750]

Hey fellas,

I'm working thru an electrical issue on my L3750.

I pulled the dash some to install a new ignition switch today, and noticed some bad wiring in there. See this photo:

http://imgur.com/a/3pk5K

A line from the starter has been spliced into one of the bundles running to the ignition switch. I thought a mouse had gotten in there, but someone clearly wired it this way.

Why would it be wired this way? Is it standard (I doubt it) and what can be done to clear it up?

There was a fire in the dash, clearly from the melted plastic, sometime before I owned the tractor, but I don't know the story there.

http://imgur.com/a/Weuem

Thanks,

Mike

 

[sagor]

Very "ugly" wiring... Anytime you see bare copper, you are in trouble...
Get some good "butt splice" crimp connectors, to match the wire size, and re-do any splices/connections that exist. Weather proof the crimp connectors with either "liquid tape" or some other sealant, then tape them up. An alternative to tape is heat-shrink tubing. You have to seal the exposed copper wires from the elements, no matter how you do it. If you know anyone in the radio business (commercial or amateur radio), try to find some "coax seal". It is a black tacky tape-like material that seals everything from the elements and does not deteriorate easily.

I once had a skid steer where the previous owner simply wrapped the wires around the switch lugs. Intermittent for sure... Oxidation and dirt make all electrical connections "bad"

 

[mike l3750]

Very "ugly" wiring... Anytime you see bare copper, you are in trouble...
Get some good "butt splice" crimp connectors, to match the wire size, and re-do any splices/connections that exist. Weather proof the crimp connectors with either "liquid tape" or some other sealant, then tape them up. An alternative to tape is heat-shrink tubing. You have to seal the exposed copper wires from the elements, no matter how you do it. If you know anyone in the radio business (commercial or amateur radio), try to find some "coax seal". It is a black tacky tape-like material that seals everything from the elements and does not deteriorate easily.

I once had a skid steer where the previous owner simply wrapped the wires around the switch lugs. Intermittent for sure... Oxidation and dirt make all electrical connections "bad"

Definitely, I did patch it up temporarily, but wonder if 1. that's the standard spot to run the starter wire, and if so, 2. is there a fresh harness or plug/wire section I can get in there to clean it up ???

 

[Jim L.]

You could remove and replace the wiring harness. Expensive and time consuming.

Based on the picture it looks that the fire got to the wires going to one connector. I would get the WSM (Workshop Manual) and look at the color coding of the wires going to that connector.

The wiring with bad insulation can be repaired with good by splicing. The better crimp splicing connector for this case is Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Nylon Insulated Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connector. After you crimp, apply heat until the ends seal against the conductor. Then you have a waterproof seal.

If the multipin connector is damaged, it can be replaced. Use stranded conductors rated for oil and gasoline.

 

[L.C. Gray]

Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Nylon Insulated Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connector.

Try saying that three times fast....

 

[mike l3750]

You could remove and replace the wiring harness. Expensive and time consuming.

Based on the picture it looks that the fire got to the wires going to one connector. I would get the WSM (Workshop Manual) and look at the color coding of the wires going to that connector.

The wiring with bad insulation can be repaired with good by splicing. The better crimp splicing connector for this case is Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Nylon Insulated Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connector. After you crimp, apply heat until the ends seal against the conductor. Then you have a waterproof seal.

If the multipin connector is damaged, it can be replaced. Use stranded conductors rated for oil and gasoline.

Excellent. Thanks for the info.

 

[scdeerslayer]

Heat shrink butt connectors are okay, but it's best to use heat shrink tubing over the butt connectors. And get heat shrink with the adhesive in it. Don't buy at a marine store though, that's way too expensive. superbrightleds.com is where I've bought a lot of heat shrink tubing before (shipping can get you but if you buy a bunch of different sizes at once it's not so bad), and I think there are good prices on Amazon also. If it's just missing the insulation and doesn't need a splice just put the heat shrink over it if possible.

And go by harbor freight and get one of their cheap heat guns. It makes it so much easier to heat the heat shrink properly without the chance of burning it with a torch or lighter.

 

[Dave_eng]

You are not clear in your description of which wire from the starter..

From the diameter, i.e.gauge of the wires I suspect the wire from the starter is actually the main power supply from the battery to the rest of the tractor.

There would be a smaller wire going to the starter solenoid either through a series of safety switches or alternatively, their would be am Operator presence controller receiving signals from safety switches and then activating a relay to power the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start.

I dont know your model or age of tractor but that heavy wire is going to be protected against stating a fire. Often there is a fusible link in the harness.
This is a picture from one Kubota

Do you have an owner's manual with either a fuse box illustration or a wiring diagram which could be posted?

I am seeing something orange in the lower right corner of the picture. Is this a wire and can you expose it and show its both ends.
I found an on line WSM for L3301,L3910 & L4701. It does not appear to have a fusible link but instead three slow blow fuses which are outside the normal fuse box.

Dave M7040

 

[mike l3750]

You are not clear in your description of which wire from the starter..

From the diameter, i.e.gauge of the wires I suspect the wire from the starter is actually the main power supply from the battery to the rest of the tractor.

There would be a smaller wire going to the starter solenoid either through a series of safety switches or alternatively, their would be am Operator presence controller receiving signals from safety switches and then activating a relay to power the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start.

I dont know your model or age of tractor but that heavy wire is going to be protected against stating a fire. Often there is a fusible link in the harness.
This is a picture from one Kubota

Do you have an owner's manual with either a fuse box illustration or a wiring diagram which could be posted?

I am seeing something orange in the lower right corner of the picture. Is this a wire and can you expose it and show its both ends.
I found an on line WSM for L3301,L3910 & L4701. It does not appear to have a fusible link but instead three slow blow fuses which are outside the normal fuse box.

Dave M7040

Hey Dave,

The wire in question runs from that ugly splice to the starter solenoid. Maybe there was a slow burn fuse on it at one time, but it's just wire now. That orange thing you're looking at is actual a metal bar, rusted, that supports the ignition switch. I'm not at home now, but have the WSM and can post diagrams on Thursday and Friday. I looked at them, but am too new at this to make heads or tails.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Dave_eng]

Hey Dave,

The wire in question runs from that ugly splice to the starter solenoid. Maybe there was a slow burn fuse on it at one time, but it's just wire now. That orange thing you're looking at is actual a metal bar, rusted, that supports the ignition switch. I'm not at home now, but have the WSM and can post diagrams on Thursday and Friday. I looked at them, but am too new at this to make heads or tails.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike
If you don't mind investing some time providing info like the wiring diagram, photos of the starter area where the wire you are referring runs to, everyone will help to get you past this mess.

Is your WSM electronic pdf format or paper? If electronic does it look like someone printed it and then photocopied it? If it is a true original WSM, you should be able to increase the magnification in Adobe viewer and see fine lines not muddy lines.


Dave M7040