New chipper/shredder: Is this a problem?

JackJ

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BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
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Indiana
Just took delivery of a new chipper shredder last week. I'm addressing a couple of issues with the mfg. and will post a full review once that process is done.

But one thing I'm not sure about is the amount of runout on the drive pulley. I measure it at about 0.1" at the outer edge of the 14" diameter sheave. Everything seems to be snug, and there's no significant vibration going on. But is this amount of wobble excessive?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4OaEQiSsxw
 

85Hokie

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Looking at that a couple of times - it seems to me that the casting of the pulley is off, OR it was bent in the placement on the machine.

AS long as the belt is snug in the V-groove - I really do not think you will have a problem.

The little vibration if any will not be a problem at 540 RPMs......now if that puppy was spinning at 3k or 5k RPMS, I would image it would hop across the parking lot by itself!

But as it is - chip away and report back as to how the machine chips!:)
 

sdk1968

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if i bought it brand new & it had that wobble in it?

id be pissed too. even if it wont hurt it... thsi stuff aint cheap & i wouldnt have accepted my tractor if it had a wobble... dont think could live with this one either. :eek:
 

skeets

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Yep I would be getting in touch with where you bought it or the manufacturer. You buy new you expect it to be right, even if the run out wont hurt anything it still aint right !
 

billrigsby

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What brand is that? (DR)?

Looking at the frame and belt tension spring
looks like mine,
but mine does not wobble like that.

I don't like the looks of that, possibly will add
stress and wear to the shaft / bearing.
 

JackJ

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BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
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18
Indiana
What brand is that? (DR)?
Not a DR, but I want to give the manufacturer a chance to address my concerns before it appears that I'm complaining about their product online. This wasn't the only issue, but here I was wanting to know if other folks would consider the runout a problem, or within the acceptable range for a low rpm piece of yard maintenance equipment.

Hopefully I'll get a full satisfactory resolution without spending anything more than some of my time, but I'll report back either way.
 

85Hokie

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I dont think the runout is a problem as I said earlier - BUT I do agree that you should inquire as to a fix, no sense something that expensive be "out of whack" from the factory.

At the very least - they should send you a new flywheel!!!:) AND a new belt should be included!:eek:
 

Bxmike

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Bx2670
Feb 11, 2017
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ny
New machine... it's too much. Won't be a problem today next week ... a year from now it will be bigger.
 

sawmill

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bx24 backhoe/fel, 48" Bush mower
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That looks like a Browning bushing. I would try loosening the bolts and re-seating the sheave on the bushing and torque all three bolts equally. Just my opinion.
 

Tughill Tom

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That looks like a Browning bushing. I would try loosening the bolts and re-seating the sheave on the bushing and torque all three bolts equally. Just my opinion.
What Sawmill said, check the bushing. also check that the sheave isn't warped out and check the run out on the driven shaft. Good Luck!
Buy American and it'd not be an issue!
 

JackJ

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BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
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Thanks for the insights--hopefully it is an adjustment issue with the bushing/hub and not a warped sheave or drive shaft. The mfg.'s service manager is out of town this week and asked if I could wait until he got back, which I agreed to. I hope to get this and the other issues straightened out (no pun intended) early next week.
 

sawmill

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bx24 backhoe/fel, 48" Bush mower
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I stopped your video at 3 seconds in. There you can really see the total run out. That is way to much. If not addressed it will eat the belt up. Over a period of time it will wear out the sheave also. It's possible that during assembly they over tightened the bushing and cracked it. I've seen that happen before. Best of luck to you.
 

Kurtee

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Unacceptable on a new piece of equipment. Regardless of cost or mfg.
 

tcrote5516

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If you built it I'd say good enough. If you bought it from a company who designed, manufactured and marketed it as a professional product I'd say we have a problem.

If a 32" truck tire can roll straight at highway speed which is about 600 rpm I would expect they can get a 14" pulley to do the same.
 

Wjglampe

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2017 kubota BX23s
Dec 3, 2017
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Afton MN
Jack,
Reviving this old thread and wondering what your resolution was with the wobble? Please provide for us. Thanks.
 

JackJ

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BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
9
18
Indiana
Jack,
Reviving this old thread and wondering what your resolution was with the wobble? Please provide for us. Thanks.
The wobble wasn't actually the biggest problem with the machine. It's a MacKissic TPH122, and the main issue is that one of the bolts holding the knife to the flywheel worked its way loose very early on. The protruding bolt head quickly chewed up the wear plate that controls the depth of the cut, and damaged the threads in the flywheel that hold the bolt. Looked to me that no Loctite was used during assembly. Clearly threadlocker is supposed to be there since the instructions on changing out the knife tell you to apply heat to "unlock" the Loctite. That was a warranty issue, but coupled with the wobble I was not a happy customer.

But MacKissic handled it well. They asked me if I wanted new parts, or a whole new unit. I opted for the latter, and the new one works great. It was a bit of a hassle to re-crate the defective unit and arrange delivery of the replacement, since I do value my time. But overall, I'd recommend the vendor and their product.

So to comment on an above post: I did buy American, and while I managed to get a lemon, the customer service was good, as is chipper/shredder.

It will devour 3.5" limbs as advertised, and that's about all my little BX1870 has power to chew. Which is fine by me, as anything over 3" goes in the woodstove.

My main goal in purchasing was to 1) Have something I could run off the PTO on my then-new toy, er, tractor (which is mostly a mower/firewood mover/motorized wheelbarrow); and 2) Have an ample supply of woodchips for mulch and trail maintenance. My only disappointment is how many little saplings and limbs it takes to get decent mulch pile. But that's not the machine's fault--it gobbles stuff up just fine, and the hammermill is great at swallowing the miscellaneous little trash that won't go down the limb hopper.
 

al m

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smiths falls on Canada
First I have seen this thread,read it tall,no offence to my American neighouls,but I got a real chuckle out of the " buy American" comment, just found it a odd comment on a forum devoted to owners of Japanesse tractors.
 

mikester

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M59 TLB
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Unacceptable on a new piece of equipment. Regardless of cost or mfg.
This is considered "acceptable" quality for chinese made stuff.

Lowest cost over quality and safety. Stupid westerners will buy any garbage china makes. Thank you Wallymart and global "free" trade for making us think this is the new normal.

Full disclosure - I have a similar chinese made 8" power feed chipper. The chipper flywheel and bearings are acceptable quality and I don't get any runout like you see. The OEM feeder mechanism and metal guarding is all garbage and breaks down every 15 minutes or so. Great if you want timed breaks to get a coffee. Totally blows if you want to get some work done and forgot to carry a complete toolbox with you to make repairs.

I bought mine knowing I couldn't buy the raw materials and build the unit myself for the price I paid. As things break I replace the parts with new locally sourced stuff or custom fabricated.

I now have hydraulic in-feed which is 1000% more reliable than the mechanical belt driven junk supplied with the machine. Now I am re-welding stuff after it breaks an I keep hoping the 200lb flywheel doesn't explode on me one day...
 
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npalen

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B9200
Feb 10, 2016
43
1
0
Beloit, KS
I agree with the above regarding the bolts holding the sheave to the tapered bushing.
You may be able to correct the runout by first marking on the outside of the sheave where it moves FURTHEST from the tractor when rotating manually. Then try slightly tightening the bolt nearest to the mark to see if that tends to correct the misalignment.
If the bolt is already plenty tight, try loosening the other two bolts slightly and then tapping the outside of the sheave , with a soft hammer or piece of wood, away from the tractor to make it run true without wobbling.
It's possible that the person assembling the sheave to the tapered bushing didn't know or didn't care about the gradual tightening sequence of the three bolts so that the sheave runs true.
Another approach would be to loosen, but not remove, all three bolts and then gently tap the sheave loose on the tapered hub. Then gradually tighten all three while manual rotating the sheave to observe runout.

Edit: I see now that Sawmill said basically the same thing except in a lot fewer words.:)
 
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