I am having an issue breaking the carter keys on my bushhog.not sure why but apparently too much pressure being put on them by the 3pt and they keep breaking.. I know im rough on the hog been cutting saplings with it lately, maybe just when turn tight in the brush too much stress on the pins..dunno. its the keys that go through the pins at implement to be more clear. Also have bent two now on the top link...im thinking adjustment issue somewhere i dunno..any ideas?
Broken Hair Pins
- Thread starter Hoppingsp
- Start date
Re: Broken carter keys
If you need help posting pictures help is available as long as you have a digital picture on your computer to work with.
Dave M7040
Could you post a picture to help us understand how you are setup?
If you need help posting pictures help is available as long as you have a digital picture on your computer to work with.
Dave M7040
Re: Broken carter keys
Cotter pins is my guess. The lynch pins are quite hard.
Or maybe the hair pins.
Cotter pins is my guess. The lynch pins are quite hard.
Or maybe the hair pins.
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Re: Broken carter keys
Hoppingsp
You need to locate some made in USA spring locking pins or use grade 8 bolts with lock nuts. Do you keep your tractors sway bars snug on both sides?
Hoppingsp
You need to locate some made in USA spring locking pins or use grade 8 bolts with lock nuts. Do you keep your tractors sway bars snug on both sides?
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Re: Broken carter keys
the term we are looking for is linchpin - or lynchpin - or linch pin - depending on where you are on the planet.
You can get 'em for less that a dollar - buy several more than you ever need, them seem to get lost rather quickly!
It is a very old term - it has several meanings throughout time too!
Gentlemen,
the term we are looking for is linchpin - or lynchpin - or linch pin - depending on where you are on the planet.
You can get 'em for less that a dollar - buy several more than you ever need, them seem to get lost rather quickly!
It is a very old term - it has several meanings throughout time too!
Re: Broken carter keys
Perhaps its not the pins being the issue but the three point catgories not matching. I need bushings for a couple of my attatchments. Without the bushings and washers the pop the lyncpins.
Perhaps its not the pins being the issue but the three point catgories not matching. I need bushings for a couple of my attatchments. Without the bushings and washers the pop the lyncpins.
Re: Broken carter keys
You could use spacers to tighten up the gap so the implement wouldn't slide back and forth the friction is putting a lot of pressure on the pin. Another way to solve the problem would be to install a quick hitch and that would make your life a lot easier when hooking up and unhooking. You could try spraying the pin with something like wd40, or wait until the parts wear a bit could be the paint casing a lot of friction not letting it slide easily back and forth
You could use spacers to tighten up the gap so the implement wouldn't slide back and forth the friction is putting a lot of pressure on the pin. Another way to solve the problem would be to install a quick hitch and that would make your life a lot easier when hooking up and unhooking. You could try spraying the pin with something like wd40, or wait until the parts wear a bit could be the paint casing a lot of friction not letting it slide easily back and forth
Re: Broken carter keys
I call those "Jesus clips". When you don't get them on all the way, they fly off and then you say "oh sweet Jesus, where'd that go".
Seriously, though, you could have several issues going on. I like to see spacers between the lower 3 point arms and the implement mounting points. This keeps the arms from moving around inside the mounting points. Letting them move back and forth can do bad stuff. Also, those clips are the cheapest way possible for the manufacturer to hold the pins in, and those clips aren't real strong for what you're asking it to do, like, say in a box blade application. I suggest replacing them with lynch pin style pins, and put some spacers in to keep everything from moving so much. This should solve your issue. If you break a lynch pin, you're asking too much of your implement...
I call those "Jesus clips". When you don't get them on all the way, they fly off and then you say "oh sweet Jesus, where'd that go".
Seriously, though, you could have several issues going on. I like to see spacers between the lower 3 point arms and the implement mounting points. This keeps the arms from moving around inside the mounting points. Letting them move back and forth can do bad stuff. Also, those clips are the cheapest way possible for the manufacturer to hold the pins in, and those clips aren't real strong for what you're asking it to do, like, say in a box blade application. I suggest replacing them with lynch pin style pins, and put some spacers in to keep everything from moving so much. This should solve your issue. If you break a lynch pin, you're asking too much of your implement...
Lil Foot
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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Re: Broken carter keys
What he said.
We call those hairpin clips, and every place you have them, there are lynchpins on my 3pt.
What he said.
We call those hairpin clips, and every place you have them, there are lynchpins on my 3pt.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Re: Broken carter keys
I would:
1 - use a good lynch pin instead of an R Clip. I can get cheapie lynch pins for $0.25, or $0.99 for good ones at TSC for Cat 1.
2 - put a bushing on the lower link pin to reduce slop/travel like lugbolt said.
Just my $0.02.
I would:
1 - use a good lynch pin instead of an R Clip. I can get cheapie lynch pins for $0.25, or $0.99 for good ones at TSC for Cat 1.
2 - put a bushing on the lower link pin to reduce slop/travel like lugbolt said.
Just my $0.02.
Ok thanks for input guys i will get some spacers and try that....where can i get those at tsc?? Also i will swap to lynch pins and see how it goes, came set up like this from dealer when bought it so figured it was how it should be.
That's the way the cheaper equipment usually is. You are finding out how they keep the price down. By using inexpensive components.
TSC isn't my first choice but sometimes it's the only choice. They've got a ton of chinese junk for Made in USA prices, at least in this area. I use the local farm supply store, or the dealer. Actually on stuff like that (collars, lynch pins) the dealer might be cheaper believe it or not.
Fastest fix is to put a flat washer between the pin and the arm. That will stop the shearing that is taking place.
Real fix as others have said is lynch pins.
Real fix as others have said is lynch pins.
So went to neighbors house yesterday since he has drill press, and we drilled out the pins to accept a lynch pin of sdecent size. Gonna see what happens and if needed next step to make /buy some bushings for gaps in pins when hooked up. Also removed the baxk plate and chain guard on back of bushhog, so now it cuts better when backing into the brush, and wont try to climb over it as badly. Now just cuts it off at base, tried it out,much better!
I suggest you put the stabilizing arms for the 3 pt hitch in the long slot instead of a perfect hole. Do this on both sides of the 3 pt lower arms and this will allow the hitch to move a little side to side. I think it will take some of the stress off the pins where some have suggested you need spacers.
Dave M7040
Donystoy
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I have lost more of those hair pin clips than I like to admit to. I thought last year that I would make it easier to install my mid mount mower and use the hair-pins. Went back to the over-sized key-ring style ring (not sure on proper name) after I lost a mounting pin.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Good idea dave gonna do that when i use it again...that may help,,,kinda irritating broke a lynch pin today, however it was old and rusty and all i had after we drilled the pins out. Went to town this evening though and bought some more so gonna give it a fair chance next time out.