1st tractor

[mickp7]

Hi all,
I am new to the forum (any forum) and joined because of all the great advice and feedback I've seen. I am in the process of purchasing my 1st tractor and this forum has been very valuable.
Here's the situation: my family and I bought a 50 acre property, all wooded with about 4 1/2 acres of grass. The grass area is pretty much wide open except for some "detail" work around the house and a small pond.
I would like to get a tractor to mow (leaning towards 72" rear finish mower), create about an acre of food plots, firewood/ logs, move rocks/ barnstones, grade trails, push snow, and whatever other projects come along.
The sales rep I talked to was pretty green, but was steering me towards the 26HP up to the 33HP (L3301). After reading and talking to a couple buddies, I think the L3301 is the minimum I would consider. I am now leaning towards the 3901, 4701, or 4060.
Realizing the power/ size differences, are the latter sizes too heavy for mowing? We are in N/E Ohio- clay surfaces that are frequently wet...
Lastly, does anyone find the incremental size increase cumbersome? Or does the power/ stability overcome any difference in agility?
Any feedback or considerations based on the above would be appreciated!

 

[MadMax31]

Its less about HP and more about weight. Any machine will mow fine. A 4060 is likely to be overkill for your purposes. What is involved in food plots? What implements will you need? My 24hp B series could pull a rear mount 72" for finish mowing, but only a 4' bush hog for rotary cutting.

For logging, the bigger the loader the better. The Grand Ls have the strongest loaders and 3pt hitch of the L class. The 01 machines are economy machines. Fine machines in their right, but an L3560 will rip the guts out of an L3901.

As far as DPF, the L machines in- broad stroke, have been problem free. The only problem child is the B3350. So if the salesman starts pointing that particular machine out, just say no thanks.

Choose your implements and size PTO HP accordingly, a BX would get job done, it would just a lot longer than an L machine.

 

[85Hokie]

mick,

you have not mentioned your price range, most of the time the bigger is better - however, in tight places, a little smaller is better, and a little less weight to not mat the grass down works well.

Max gave you good advice on certain models - go back and get some prices on each of the models you are looking at, then it can be easier on us to help with the best bang for the buck.

Once you buy a tractor - the one thing that you really dont count on is.......what can be done with one, over the thought about what you cannot do without one! You'll find that having a machine that does all kinds of things is so good that you'll wonder how you have gotten by without having one!

 

[D2Cat]

Mickp7, you mention, "I would like to get a tractor to mow (leaning towards 72" rear finish mower), create about an acre of food plots, firewood/ logs, move rocks/ barnstones, grade trails, push snow, and whatever other projects come along."

You have 50 acres. You have 4-5 acres of open grass area around the house. You don't mention budget restraints, but you're looking at new tractors.

It sounds like you're focusing on the area around the house, keeping the grass mowed, etc.

With 50 acres you will quickly discover you need more tractor then something to mow the yard with! I would suggest you find a tractor that you feel will do a good job of the light work around the house. Actually, just a good mower to keep it pretty!

Then get at least an L model (40HP or greater) tractor for the remainder of your work. What would suit you REAL good---is a zero turn for the house area, and a tractor for the acreage.

 

[Daren Todd]

I second D2cat's advice. I was using a small L model to mow my grass. It worked well, but in mid summer when it's 100 plus degrees out, it really started to get old. The tractor with finish mower did a decent job, but you are restrained to mowing at around 4mph for a finish mower.

Then you can't get into tight spots, or close to trees. So, for two acres with a 60 inch finish mower, took a couple hours. Then around 1 1/2 hours with a push mower to get around the 60 plus trees, and the spots your not able to get with the finish mower. Then figure in weed eating into the mix, edging along the concrete driveway and walkway, and blowing off the driveway, and and porch areas.

When we had 80 acres in vermont, 4 acres of lawn, and used a riding mower to mow, and a 25 hp kubota to mow fields, Bush hog trails and log firewood.

I just went to a 48in kubota zero turn for my 2 acres. Mowing time dropped to around 45 minutes with the zero turn and 20 minutes to do both sides of the ditch

 

[TripleR]

Yep, ANY "one machine does it all" is going to inevitably a compromise; been there done that.

If money isn't the determining factor, get a lawn mower and 4060. If it is lawnmower and biggest under the 4060 you can afford, just not below L3901. The L3301 just doesn't have the features I've found make using a tractor easier, more effective.

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to the OTT forum Mick. TripleR is correct about a big compromise when trying to get one size to fit all.

I have a 24hp ridding mower and of course my tractor. They are really for different uses and you will be much happier with both.

As the saying goes, THE BIGGER THE BETTER when it comes to a tractor. There will always be times when you could use MORE tractor but for most, cost makes a difference. Pick one big enough to do what you are going to be using it for most of the time and the get the next size up.

 

[mickp7]

All,
Great feedback. I really appreciate it and can tell this is a group of good people.
Perhaps it does make sense to take the money that would go into the finish mower and other mower necessary for the detail work and apply it to a better tool for the task- the zero turn. I suppose they'd take a similar amount of space in the barn.
To the budget questions- I haven't really figured that part out yet. I figured I'd learn what the best tool(s) would be, see what they all cost, and then figure out how and where to compromise, if necessary.
I believe in investing in the right tools- "cry once". Despite not living there, I am at my property every chance I get no matter the weather, always part work, part play. What I've been learning from folks like yourselves is that the work part is going to be more like play once the new toys are delivered!
I'll be talking to the dealer soon and will report back.
Thanks again.

 

[Martywoodburner]

Welcome to the forum !
You've been given great advise so far.
My two cents is to go to MFG Mentor and ask for Steve the sales manager.
He is great at helping with all of your options and feel free to tell him Marty sent you.

 

[Brazos]

50 acres nearly all wooded I would get something with some power more than 25 hp. I would guess you might wind up with a wood chipper. If so you want plenty of HP at the PTO. You may also want to dig up stumps using a stump bucket. For that you will want some weight and power. I have an L2501, which is one of the models your dealer recommended, and I like it a lot. I a, using it on 11 wooded acres. With the help of a dozer I get along fine. With a heavier, 40hp+, tractor I could do more without the use of the dozer. If I had 50 acres I would have got something bigger.

 

[Missouribound]

About your 4 1/2 acres of grass. Is it a smooth lawn? I have about 4 acres I mow and although a zero turn sounds good, it is so rough that the smaller tires and speed of the zero turn just wouldn't work for me. I would up with a B2320 because of it's size. If your lawn area is smooth then by all means get a mower for that and a tractor for the rest. The tractor can certainly do both but the mower can not. The bigger the tractor the more trimming you will have to do if you decide on a rear mower for the tractor. I did and I have kept my little Cub Cadet for the close work and trimming.

 

[Bulldog777]

I agree with the zero turn advice, you will run circles around a finish mower on a lawn. I have a Z724 (54") zero turn, this thing is a monster compared to a regular lawn mower and faster than my 60" finish mower.
If I had my choice, I would keep my Z724 and upgrade to a L4701 or L4060.
Tractors are kinda like barns, figure out the size you think you need and go a little larger. Lol.
Just a note, the L3301 and L3901 sit on the same frame, HP and a little difference in weight is about it (except price difference).
Messick's has a YouTube video on the L series that is informative.

 

[mickp7]

Thanks again for all the feedback guys. This process has been more of an evolution than I had expected, but this is a good thing as I feel I am close to making the best decision.

Here's where I'm at:
-thanks to your feedback, I am going to get a zero turn for the mowing. Net cost will be a couple grand more, but worth it.
-Decided the 3301 and 3901 are too light and potentially under-powered for the tree work and rocks I have on the property.

Now I am looking at an MX4800 or, if the price is "good enough", Grand L4760. I like the weight and power of these machines. I went through my woods and if I cut down just a few insignificant trees, accessibility shouldn't be a problem.

If anyone has experience to share with these or similar models, I appreciate the continued education.

Also, any feedback on grapples vs bucket grapples? The bucket grapple seems like it may be handier for rocks, boulders, logs, firewood, but let me know if anyone has used either.

Thanks again

 

[TripleR]

The Grand L is more expensive, but was my choice and I'm sure glad I got it.

The issue of grapples is a hard one. I like a separate bucket and grapple, but my brother hasn't taken his grapple bucket off since he bought it.

 

[Dalroo]

Now I am looking at an MX4800 or, if the price is "good enough", Grand L4760. I like the weight and power of these machines. I went through my woods and if I cut down just a few insignificant trees, accessibility shouldn't be a problem.

If anyone has experience to share with these or similar models, I appreciate the continued education.

I too looked at the L and Grand L, but decided on the MX4800DT. It just seemed like the best all around value. Was a bit light, so loaded the tires, and added some "nice to haves" - ROPS lights, bigger tool box, etc. and could not be happier.

I was given some advice early - not sure how wise, but worked for me - get all you can imagine needing, and then err on the + side because there are always bigger projects. If the project gets too big, rent as needed.

Good luck.

 

[mickp7]

Dealer just quoted me an MX5200 they have in stock. $32,300 finance or $31,300 cash. They just sold the last MX4800.

He is working on the L4760 quote.

Any opinions on that price?

My machine keeps growing... based on the feedback, I am good with that!

 

[Dalroo]

Dealer just quoted me an MX5200 they have in stock. $32,300 finance or $31,300 cash. They just sold the last MX4800.

He is working on the L4760 quote.

Any opinions on that price?

My machine keeps growing... based on the feedback, I am good with that!

HST or DT? Any implements bundled? Loader? I was out the door, delivered, with box blade, loader, and 72" (medium duty) shredder for just less than $28.5. That was cash for MX4800DT.

Not sure what the list difference is between 48 and 52, but guessing a couple of thousand. If memory serves, HST was about $1,500 more. Just my opinion, but I would guess he can shave a bit off $31,300 and if so, you will get a GREAT tractor.

 

[Missouribound]

Any opinions on that price?

Have you tried the "build my Kubota" option on the Kubota site?
It allows you to pick a model and equip it anyway you want. It then shows you the suggested list price. I would use that to determine just what the dealer is actually doing for you. When I bought my equipment, I paid about 22% less than the suggested price. Also consider looking at Tractorhouse.com. A great place to comparison shop and get prices.

 

[TripleR]

The MX is a really good machine for the money no doubt, I just wanted the additional features of the GL and had to have a cab.

 

[cerlawson]

You might be surprised at what can come with a used tractor, and with less cost for the same capability. I'd try to find someone in the property area that has a tractor. I'd check with tractor owners as to what they like, etc. If you have a chance to try out one also might help with the decision. Also, there are plenty of nice ones out there not necessarily orange. Winter operations and storage should be checked out .