Will spraying silicon spray in the intake contaminate the oil?

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The lack of glow plugs working will not keep it from starting in the temp you are in!

As far as the glow plugs not working you'll have to chase the wire and see what is not working, you have an actual light that indicates glow plug operation (Not a glow indicator) then there is most likely a relay and fuse for the glow plugs.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

I'm not trying to be smart or anything here, and I don't want to overstate the obvious. But this is the same tractor that half a dozen members tried repeatedly to explain how to set the valve lash properly on and there's no way for us to know if that was really done properly (if they aren't right, it aint gonna start).
As hard as he was trying it was really obvious that this sort of thing maybe wasn't something he understood real well. The current discussions about the glow plugs, starter and injector pump priming follow along that same line and apparent mechanical skill level.
I'm going to go back to the same advice I gave during the valve lash discussion. Find someone who understands diesel engines and at least have them look over your shoulder and explain these things to you as you go along. That way you can learn how to do it the right way. As it is, between the valves, glow plugs, injectors, starter and injector pump there are too many things that could be wrong for folks here to ever hope to help diagnose it in a reasonable fashion.

I'm curious...
Did it run before you took it apart?

If so then you:
1. Probably need to have someone help you confirm the valve lash settings.
2. Make sure everything is assembled correctly.
3. Make sure the pump is primed correctly.
4. Make sure the lines to the injectors are bled.
5. Check the glow plug system (although if you're working in a heated garage it should at least try to start or at least smoke some probably even
without the glow plugs).
Starter? it doesn't have to crank all that fast to start or at least try.

Besides that...

Was the head disassembled while off (valves taken out)? If it was then you needed to have the valves and seats resurfaced before reassembly. If you did take them out and didn't have them resurfaced then they're not going to seal and it's not going to start.
Was it a head gasket issue that prompted the initial disassembly?
If so did you have the head surface checked for cracks, straightness and flatness while off?
If not then the head gasket may not seal properly and it may not start.
Hopefully, you didn't bend any valves when trying to figure out how they should be set.
See, we're chasing the wind here there are soooo many possible issues that this is almost impossible.

You need someone there to walk you through it all.
That's not a knock, I'm sure you CAN learn how to do it. But some things some people need instruction and hands on help with to learn right. 4 cycle diesel engine operation, assembly and tuning may be those things for you.

I performed the eoic method. I started with the cylinder closest to the radiator. I turned the engine until the intake push rod started to rise then I adjusted the exhaust to .006 in. I then checked to make sure .008 wouldn't fit. I then turned the engine until the exhaust valve moved up to the point where it almost reached the top. I then checked the intake for the same clearance. I then did the same thing on every cylinder.

The head gasket wasn't blown nor was the block or head cracked. The engine ran fine before but was smoking from the bottom after 20 minutes of mowing. I had a guy that was a diesel mechanic bore the holes for the exhaust manifold and reattach the exhaust. The only thing I think he did was take the intake manifold off and the thermostat housing unit and I put them back on before I but the head back on.

There is a thing that screws into the engine head with a wire that I twisted and it got shredded a bit and I'm wondering if that might be why the glow plugs aren't getting power.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

One more thing. I hooked the voltmeter negative to negative on the battery and positive on the wire that goes to the glow plugs. Before i turn the key it jumps all over the place around 350 and when i turn the key to wherevthe glow plug light would normally light it just says 1.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Glow plugs need to be screwed in for them to work,or a good ground attatched to each plug. So the exhaust was repaired,correct?
Head and block were cleaned spotless and degreased and re-assembled with a new gasket and torqued to specification?

Your voltmeter/ohmmeter should be set on dc volts, to test for power at glow plug rail.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

Yes i torqued the screws in the correct order to the correct poundage. It was 30 lbs i think. I cleaned the block and head as clean as i could and removed all the residue. I checked the wire to the glow plugs with the batt 1.5 V setting.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

Can someone tell me what this is for and that it's called? Its screwed into the head and the wire is frayed. In fact while messing with it the wire literally broke in half.

 

[85Hokie]

"an someone tell me what this is for and that it's called? Its screwed into the head and the wire is frayed. In fact while messing with it the wire literally broke in half."

that looks like a water jacket temperature sending unit. Not imperative for operation nor starting - but nice to have if you need water temps!

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Sending unit, probably water temperature. Nothing to do with glow-plugs.

Your exhaust valves are out of adjustment (If you described correctly in your post at 7:21 how you set the valves). If you are turning a 4 cycle engine in the direction of normal rotation the exhaust valve is still open as the intake valve is beginning to open. All camshafts are ground with a period between the end of the exhaust and beginning of the intake cycle when both valves are momentarily open. It is called overlap, all cams have it to some degree, performance cams often more so. It aids in cylinder scavenging and helps begin the intake flow. If you set the exhaust just as the intake was opening then it likely wasn't fully seated yet and is probably quite some amount out of adjustment. The intake should be beginning to close to set the exhaust. If you set the intake when the exhaust was fully open then you are "probably" ok.
However, without getting too technical there is still some possibility (however minor) that you wouldn't be on the actual base circle of the cam but on part of the lower opening or closing ramp on the lobe, THAT IS WHY manufacturers spec valve lash adjustment with the crankshaft rotation in a specific position. Because they know exactly how the cam is degreed in relation to crankshaft position from top dead center and their procedure is meant to be sure you are on the true base circle of the cam lobe when adjusting.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

BTW, if that IS what you did the effect is that the exhaust valve lash is too great/loose. The result is that the Ex valve closes too early and opens too late. If significantly enough loose it could cause difficult cranking because the cylinder that is supposed to be freely expelling exhaust is re-compressing air that should be expelled. This also negatively impacts the intake flow because that compressed "exhaust" will blow out through the Int valve as it begins to open.
Again... that is IF you did it as you described in the post earlier tonight.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

So do you think it's just the exhaust that might be wrong based on how i described how I set the valve lash? I thought that you are supposed to adjust the exhaust valve just as the pushrod for the intake starts to go up and then adjust the intake as the spring for the exhaust is almost to the top.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Yes i torqued the screws in the correct order to the correct poundage. It was 30 lbs i think. I cleaned the block and head as clean as i could and removed all the residue. I checked the wire to the glow plugs with the batt 1.5 V setting.

Wrong setting on meter.batt 1.5 setting checks the meter battery condition. Without knowing what meter its difficult to tell you what setting to use. My meter for example would be set on the 20v dc setting.

To review valve clearance adjustment, if you followed the procedure in manual and the correct feeler guage was used and adjusted to a slight drag on guage then i'm confident you are close enough with valve lash adjustment.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

If you mean by "the spring for the exhaust is almost to the top".... that you set the intake lash when the exhaust valve spring was fully compressed (the valve stem was pushed down by the rocker tip) then you are probably ok. But if you mean by that statement that the spring was fully extended (relaxed) then no they are wrong.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

It is important that this is all happening by turning the engine in the direction of normal rotation. Like it turns when running.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

Yes the spring for the exhaust or that is the second spring away from the radiator I waited for it to be almost to the top but not fully extended. However the engine turn counter clockwise and I was turning it clockwise during the valve setting.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Yes the spring for the exhaust or that is the second spring away from the radiator I waited for it to be almost to the top but not fully extended. However the engine turn counter clockwise and I was turning it clockwise during the valve setting.

Not your engine, but something to help understand valve lash adjustment.
https://youtu.be/aRLg8iPdR1A

Hope it helps.
And as a general rule, you should never turn any engine backwards,unless a service procedure requires it.
Especially engines with a timing belt.

 

[RCW]

But this is the same tractor that half a dozen members tried repeatedly to explain how to set the valve lash properly (if they aren't right, it aint gonna start).

The current discussions about the glow plugs, starter and injector pump priming follow along that same line and apparent mechanical skill level.

Newbie -

I need to confess that I did not associate this thread with another regarding valve lash.

Is my mechanical skill level low - no. Unfortunately, I made a suggestion without all the required information, which is my bad.

Tough to diagnose stuff when you don't see/feel/hear it. In my own defense, I did say it needs compression!

Thanks for helping to get the OP back to his final goal - getting that puppy running!

 

[Kubota Newbie]

RCW - My comment was an observation that from the back and forth on those issues that **bjj30 does not YET have the mechanical understanding necessary to efficiently accomplish the task which he (or she I suppose) has undertaken. Not to say he won't learn and get there. Nothing wrong with the advice that folks have given.

Lzybmbjj30 - if you were turning it backwards that means that..... Aw heck, it should just be done whilst turning it in the direction it runs.
I suppose at that rate (going backwards) they might be close cause you were actually on the intake closing ramp which in normal rotation would be the beginning of the compression stroke which would mean the exhaust would be closed so you could set it. But.....
I'm just observing that it ran before and you supposedly did nothing more than pull the head, fix a couple bolts, slap on a new gasket and bolt it back together. No injector pump removal or anything like that. If it ran before you should be able to adjust the valves, connect the injector lines, prime and start it up. Most of your inquiries lead me to believe that you haven't adjusted the valves properly.
Put you hand tight over the exhaust and crank it a few turns. Does it try to force air (exhaust) past your hand? It should, the engine is nothing more than an air pump. If it doesn't, or doesn't much (or with good force) than something is amiss in the valve train.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Tooljunkie's video suggestion is excellent (they are turning that engine in the direction of normal running rotation by the way).

That is a beautiful valve train in the video by the way! Sexy almost! Sorry... it's the gear head coming out in me.

 

[Tooljunkie]

When the valve adjustment first came up looking for a youtube video never occurred to me, for that i apologize.
For those of us dropped in the " he can fix anything"category youtube has been quite helpful. Its my go to when manuals arent in hand and web searches otherwise fail.

Found some great stuff in regards to machining. Mrpete222 is an excellent instructor when it comes to lathe work.

 

[Lzybmbjj30]

Finally got a video uploaded


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QslcFf25Ic