New Tractor Owner - B6100

[BroncoRN]

Hello,

I picked up what I believe to be a B6100 for $800. The tractor is 4x4, 3 speed, and has a hydraulic plow blade on the front. No idea on the hours as the meter has deteriorated. All of the plates/stickers, etc. have worn off faded on the tractor so I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what model it is. I know it has a 3 cyl diesel motor, 3 speed gear driven transmission with 67005-1235 I believe stamped on the side of it. The transmission does not look like any of the pictures in the manual I was able to find. I can't seem to find a fill plug and it only has a tiny dipstick on the left side by the seat.

The engine drips oil from the overflow tube steadily as it runs. I don't believe the glow plugs are working as it is virtually impossible to start. I have turned the key to the left for 20 seconds and it is still hard to start - blows dark smoke. I have a 700 cca battery that is in good shape on the tractor. With the key turned to the left I get about 19v to each of the glow plugs - that seems high to me but I really don't know. I have not removed them yet to check for continuity.

I have three levers on the left side of the transmission housing. The lowest controls the 4x4, the middle one does nothing? - and I see no reference to it in the manual. It just seems to float there. The top one I believe should control the range Hi and Lo. I feel it click into place but the tractor seems to only stay in lo range no matter which position I put it in. The tractor is definitely in lo range as my son's 12v JD Gator gator goes about twice as fast.

The PTO spins in the 3 positions, there is no 3 point hitch, but the up and down control moves but I don't see the mechanical part move no matter what I do.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[85Hokie]

If you have not been here:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/6/1269-kubota-b6100.html

some info will help.


B6100 for $800 - that is a steal!!!! NO matter what the problems are.........


With the key turned to the left I get about 19v to each of the glow plugs - I would check your meter.......hard to get 19 volts DC on a 12 volt system!

You need not take them out to test them - undo the top connection, place your meter on OHMS, pos lead on top and place ground on good engine block bare spot. (and if you reverse those, no big deal)

YOU should read something below 10 ohms, more like 1 ohm, IF you get a reading that is high, then you have a bad glow plug(s)

The engine drips oil from the overflow tube steadily as it runs is this AFTER it is warm? Or right from the get go?

I would check oil level - even replace oil. THEN check again days later, if it goes up ......you would have fuel leaking into oil sump.

ARE you sure it is oil coming out of the breather tube? OR dirty nasty water?


I have three levers on the left side of the transmission housing Left side, as you sit or look from the front?


Report back and send pictures.

 

[BroncoRN]

Oops my bad. 3 levers on right side of the transmission - and I think I found my answer. Looks like I have the creeper gear setup. So what I thought was my high and lo IS high and lo creeper gear speeds.

I'm a little concerned now that maybe its stuck in creeper gear???

The only way I can get the tractor to start it with a little squirt of ether. From what I have read that is blasphemy, but i only use two quick squirts and it fires up.

I'm pretty sure its oil out of the breather tube. The oil level reads full and doesn't smell of diesel fuel.

Also, I think I meant 9v to each glow plug. Without the key turned I got nothing and with the key turned the meter jumped up.

 

[D2Cat]

BroncoRN, you mentioned you do this, "The only way I can get the tractor to start it with a little squirt of ether. From what I have read that is blasphemy, but i only use two quick squirts and it fires up."

This is a sure way to create more grief. You can easily create a busted crankshaft or a hole in a piston! That stuff in a 22:1 compression engine will escalate your mechanic skills!

Best to isolate the problems one at a time and if it won't start by releasing the compression, glow plugs working, proper fuel, clean filters, no air in system, then you need to remove glow plugs and check compression, then determine if injectors are working properly.

Ether becomes the lazy man's mechanic, and it's expensive!!

 

[BroncoRN]

With compression release on motor won't even try to fire, just spins, I have tried that. Need to check glow plugs.

 

[85Hokie]

With compression release on motor won't even try to fire, just spins, I have tried that. Need to check glow plugs.

If when you get your glow plugs working, you'll find you should not need the ether, and I am with D2Cat - ether = really bad news!

 

[BroncoRN]

If when you get your glow plugs working, you'll find you should not need the ether, and I am with D2Cat - ether = really bad news!

Ok in the interim whats best way to approach this? Propane?

Also, any ideas on why I seem to be stuck in creeper gear or low range?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to do a compression test, I bet your not going to like what you find.
I'll bet you have a low compression issue, that would account for the hard starts and the oil blowing out the breather tube.

No amount of adjusting will fix it, it needs rebuilt.

On the left side of the transmission tunnel will be the Model # and the serial #.
On the deck of the block just to the right of the injection pump will give you the engine Model #, and behind the injection pump and hydraulic pump on the side of the block will give you the CC # cast into the side of the block.

 

[BroncoRN]

You need to do a compression test, I bet your not going to like what you find.
I'll bet you have a low compression issue, that would account for the hard starts and the oil blowing out the breather tube.

No amount of adjusting will fix it, it needs rebuilt.

On the left side of the transmission tunnel will be the Model # and the serial #.
On the deck of the block just to the right of the injection pump will give you the engine Model #, and behind the injection pump and hydraulic pump on the side of the block will give you the CC # cast into the side of the block.

You could be right. So I am getting 10v to each glow plug. Glow plug #1 had continuity of infinity so I ordered some new glow plugs. I know the tractor is old but it runs so good once it is running! I really just bought it to move trailers around in the yard and give the kids a ride. At least the good news is I won't lose any money on the deal if I turn around and sell it, the hydraulic blade is worth $800!

 

[BroncoRN]

Given that this tractor has the creeper gear, where is the dipstick and fill port? I found a small dipstick on the left hand side, is that it? Where would fill port be??

 

[D2Cat]

I'm thinking there is a fill cap under the seat.

 

[BroncoRN]

Ok found the fill port, thank you.

Update on hi/lo range, the shifter doesn't seem to engage anything. And I cannot remove it, screws come out but shifter will pull about 1 inch out but not come off??

 

[85Hokie]

Ok found the fill port, thank you.

Update on hi/lo range, the shifter doesn't seem to engage anything. And I cannot remove it, screws come out but shifter will pull about 1 inch out but not come off??

See if this helps you find the problem:

[/IMG]

 

[Russell King]

Ok on the decompression knob: don't use it to stop engine except in emergency.
Use it in steps like this
Turn key on
Turn glow plugs on for some seconds
Pull out decompression knob
Turn key to crank position
Let engine spin up 1-2 seconds and then release decompression knob to get compression.
Tractor starts (hopefully)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BroncoRN]

See if this helps you find the problem:

[/IMG]

It would seem that the little hook on 050 has probably broken off. The lever just floats back and forth and doesn't feel like it engages anything.

Is that hard to replace?

 

[BroncoRN]

Ok on the decompression knob: don't use it to stop engine except in emergency.
Use it in steps like this
Turn key on
Turn glow plugs on for some seconds
Pull out decompression knob
Turn key to crank position
Let engine spin up 1-2 seconds and then release decompression knob to get compression.
Tractor starts (hopefully)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you sir. My decomp knob is busted, the cable has broken and pretty sure the knob thing is rusted in placed. I open the hood and operate the lever by hand.

 

[BroncoRN]

Update: installed 3 new glow plugs last night and tractor fired right up. Also I experimented with 3 quarts of regular 10w-30 and one quart of Lucas. Is that sufficient for this engine or do I need to drain it and go to diesel oil?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you still have an oil spitting issue go with a heavier diesel oil, otherwise it will be fine.

 

[BroncoRN]

Is there anyway to put a filter or maybe a PCV valve on the end of that breather line?

 

[85Hokie]

Is there anyway to put a filter or maybe a PCV valve on the end of that breather line?

The PCV was developed to place the "blow by" gasses BACK into the carburetor so they could be burned again.

If your blow by is so excessive that "oil" is dripping, that would not work well if you could run it back through - you do not have a carb, thus the only way you could place in back in the system would be to allow it to come back into the air breather. YOUR air filter would have to be adapted to allow the dirty air to come after the filter and then all of that be allowed to burn as the diesel is injected. I am not sure if all of that in a working process would even work! AS that oily intake opens and the oil is sucked into the compression stroke, I would imagine it would "fire" before the diesel was injected!

I think the better answer is to "rig" up a holding container, thus collecting the oil and then being able to dispose of it once the amount gets too large.

Then again - breaking down the engine and replacing the rings and valve seats and so on will fix the problem!

To have that much blow by - and now it start easily with new glow plugs, I would think you have a single cylinder that is very bad! I would go to your near harbor freight tools - or order online and get the diesel compression tester and test all three cylinders. (Might be able to borrow one from local autoparts store)

Ideal the compression numbers should be a number up there around 450 psi - if it lower than 325 then it is time to break it down and replace.

DO a compression check - you will find the true answer in the 3 numbers you will get! AND report back!