B2650
- Thread starter Shepbear
- Start date
Have only had mine for a week. Not sure if there are any dislikes yet. I do love the heated cab and larger size than my Kioti ck20 had.
I wish that it was heavier for when using the loader and that I could fit it under my 7' garage door without folding the ROPS.
Still pretty new with only 30 hrs on it so far, but my only gripes are....the suspension seat really wobbles on it's tracks and the 60" mmm is near the bottom of it's travel when set to mow at 3", which puts quite a bit of angle on mid pto driveshaft u-joints. I can feel a vibration from them which disappears when deck is lifted up. My previous B2400 had a lot less ground clearance and only exhibited this trait when mowing across ditches which allowed significant drop of mower deck.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Likes:
Being my firstish tractor, overall I think its a great machine to own. I'm still amazed at how much weight that little engine can handle. Love the cab for its heating and air conditioning.
Dislikes: (pour yourself a drink now)
The HST whine. From the kubota website: "New Integrated Cab Design- for an environment that minimizes noise" Yeah. Right. Its louder WITH the cab. Also, how it gets even louder when I engage the cruise control. No warning stickers for hearing protection with dB levels at or near 120DB. Potential lawsuit.
Shifting the gears. Annoying at its best, despite holding down the brake, sometimes I need to shift it to M and drive it a bit before I can drop it fully to L.
The windshield isn't top notch glass. Scratches too easily, no UV protection. The windshield wiper is poorly made.The front one broke (the motor) in a medium winter storm. My 1974 dodge dart has better windshield wipers.
I wish I could "roll down the window" during the summer. I like the visibility factor but don't think a door made completely out of glass is a good idea.
It gets awful hot at times even with the rear window open. I need to blast the air system. Would be nice to just have natural air cool the cab.
Inconsistencies. The manual is hard to follow, vague, and conflicts with information in other manuals. For example, The LA534 FEL manual states on page 11, "run the tractor engine below 1200 RPM until the oil temperature exceeds-1C (30 f)..." The 2650 manual states on page 23, "Set the throttle lever to about 1/2 way. Insert the key into the key switch and
turn it ON" How is it one manual says to raise it to half throttle to start it (1800 RPM) where one says keep it under 1200 RPM to warm it up?!
The website has misinformation where part numbers have been wrong. I've since had lots of stupid little things go wrong since taking ownership. Dry zerks, pins popping out, cables in the wrong places liable to cause damage, hydraulic hoses rubbing against metal frames and tearing, drain bolt and gear case getting stripped due to factory over tightening, and my latest one, mid pto shaft clicking, of which kubota shirks off. (begin rant)
It irks me being that my machine is the only one to have this problem yet they say its normal. After my complaint, Kubota corp said they would open the gear case and put a bore scope to take a look. My service manager said after a discussion with the Kubota rep, they decided against it and just gave it back to me. No paperwork, no documentation. Astonished, I spoke to another dealer and showed him my video, he called the rep for me to investigate (his 2650 also wasn't making the "normal noise") He said when he spoke to the rep he claimed he put a bore scope inside the case and it was normal. It was a lie. The service manager told me the truth. The gear case sealant hadn't been touched.
Kubota customer service. Definitely lacking, and they don't take any responsibility for their, or their dealers actions. There's a motto that comes to mind. "Lets see what we can get away with."
At one point, I actually had the opportunity to get all my money back and go green. I chose to stay with Kubota purely for the reason that my father owned one, without a hitch, for 23 years. Of course, that was then and this is now. I'm hopeful that once I get over my learning curve, and get all the kinks get worked out, my expereince will improve.
Time will tell.
Being my firstish tractor, overall I think its a great machine to own. I'm still amazed at how much weight that little engine can handle. Love the cab for its heating and air conditioning.
Dislikes: (pour yourself a drink now)
The HST whine. From the kubota website: "New Integrated Cab Design- for an environment that minimizes noise" Yeah. Right. Its louder WITH the cab. Also, how it gets even louder when I engage the cruise control. No warning stickers for hearing protection with dB levels at or near 120DB. Potential lawsuit.
Shifting the gears. Annoying at its best, despite holding down the brake, sometimes I need to shift it to M and drive it a bit before I can drop it fully to L.
The windshield isn't top notch glass. Scratches too easily, no UV protection. The windshield wiper is poorly made.The front one broke (the motor) in a medium winter storm. My 1974 dodge dart has better windshield wipers.
I wish I could "roll down the window" during the summer. I like the visibility factor but don't think a door made completely out of glass is a good idea.
It gets awful hot at times even with the rear window open. I need to blast the air system. Would be nice to just have natural air cool the cab.
Inconsistencies. The manual is hard to follow, vague, and conflicts with information in other manuals. For example, The LA534 FEL manual states on page 11, "run the tractor engine below 1200 RPM until the oil temperature exceeds-1C (30 f)..." The 2650 manual states on page 23, "Set the throttle lever to about 1/2 way. Insert the key into the key switch and
turn it ON" How is it one manual says to raise it to half throttle to start it (1800 RPM) where one says keep it under 1200 RPM to warm it up?!
The website has misinformation where part numbers have been wrong. I've since had lots of stupid little things go wrong since taking ownership. Dry zerks, pins popping out, cables in the wrong places liable to cause damage, hydraulic hoses rubbing against metal frames and tearing, drain bolt and gear case getting stripped due to factory over tightening, and my latest one, mid pto shaft clicking, of which kubota shirks off. (begin rant)
It irks me being that my machine is the only one to have this problem yet they say its normal. After my complaint, Kubota corp said they would open the gear case and put a bore scope to take a look. My service manager said after a discussion with the Kubota rep, they decided against it and just gave it back to me. No paperwork, no documentation. Astonished, I spoke to another dealer and showed him my video, he called the rep for me to investigate (his 2650 also wasn't making the "normal noise") He said when he spoke to the rep he claimed he put a bore scope inside the case and it was normal. It was a lie. The service manager told me the truth. The gear case sealant hadn't been touched.
Kubota customer service. Definitely lacking, and they don't take any responsibility for their, or their dealers actions. There's a motto that comes to mind. "Lets see what we can get away with."
At one point, I actually had the opportunity to get all my money back and go green. I chose to stay with Kubota purely for the reason that my father owned one, without a hitch, for 23 years. Of course, that was then and this is now. I'm hopeful that once I get over my learning curve, and get all the kinks get worked out, my expereince will improve.
Time will tell.
rkidd
Active member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650, FEL With QA 60"mmm, 3pt FDR1672,homemade ballast box, BB 1572 box scraper
Like have said I have over 430 hrs on mine in a little over a year and a half and have found it to be a very capable machine from using the front loader to move material and snow to using all of the 3 pt implements I have, and mowing the yard with the 60" mmm. It has performed flawlessly and I have never run out of power. The only thing I have done are some mods to enhance the use of the machine. Cut off the yield sign bracket and moved left and back to allow installation of a bigger tool box and easier access to tool box. After one season of snow plowing with the loader the cutting edge was starting to show wear. I had always planned on installing a bolt on cutting edge for better wear and to strengthen up the 60" bucket for long term use so I did that after the first season. I installed fiber washers in the bucket level linkage to eliminate rattling. Installed front and rear LED lights with illuminated switches. Installed 3 bucket hooks.I did have to repair the step that you get on the tractor with due to the weld broke on the back half and I have seen a couple reports of that. I am currently designing a tool box that I will fab up out of 1/8 steel and will mount to 2 existing holes in the loader frame to carry my 2 6ft 5/16" chains I use for rigging and lifting to load or unload off of the trailer. I also fabbed up
View attachment 25844
View attachment 25845
View attachment 25846
View attachment 25848
View attachment 25849 a set of wheels so that I could store my 60" mmm up against the wall out the way.
View attachment 25845
View attachment 25846
View attachment 25848
View attachment 25849 a set of wheels so that I could store my 60" mmm up against the wall out the way.
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rkidd
Active member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650, FEL With QA 60"mmm, 3pt FDR1672,homemade ballast box, BB 1572 box scraper
One more thing I forgot was that I redirected the exhaust so it didnt blow all over the back of the bucket.
directed between the front tire and loader arm.
View attachment 25850
directed between the front tire and loader arm.
View attachment 25850
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Overall I've been very happy with it sharing many of the likes previously mentioned. The one dislike is the routing of the FEL hoses. I don't know if it's the position of the loop on the arm they snake through,the lengths of the hoses, or something else, but they rub very hard against the top part of the metal loop and have terrible wear spots. It got so bad that I cut off the fabric hose protector and used plastic spiral wrap to protect them. I'd advise anyone with a B2650 to pull back the fabric protector and check their FEL hoses.
CountryBumkin
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Of course!
Why do you think they stopped making them (and the slant six). If it don't wear out or break, Chrysler can't sell you a part or a new car.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Country bumpkin LOL!
jqc99 Thats the same hose that got ruined on mine, the FEL one thats bent up rubbing on the metal frame. I had to zip tie it, to prevent it form getting worse. It exposed the metal under the rubber hose. Maybe they should put zerks on them hoses?
jqc99 Thats the same hose that got ruined on mine, the FEL one thats bent up rubbing on the metal frame. I had to zip tie it, to prevent it form getting worse. It exposed the metal under the rubber hose. Maybe they should put zerks on them hoses?
PHPaul
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650, Pronovost snow blower, Landpride rotary mower, Howard tiller, box blade
175 hours on my cab model.
Love just about everything about it. Last tractor was an '88 John Deere 750. Unbelievably capable little machine, but had some shortcomings and was open station.
I was leery of the hydro for heavy work. Not an issue.
I love the Power Steering, the Live PTO, the single joystick loader, the convenience of the hydro and of course the comfort of the cab.
Only serious complaint is the hydro whine which is indeed intensified by the cab. I keep a good pair of headphone type ear protectors hanging of the loader joystick. And yes, if you lock the cruise at max road speed, the lever seems to transmit the whine even more.
One very minor ergonomic issue is the location of the FWA (or 4WD) lever. Not terribly convenient to get at. Everything else is right where it should be IMHO.
On the range shifting thing, I finally figured out that it works MUCH better if you throttle down to an idle before shifting the lever.
I've only had one issue with the tractor (and I don't baby it) and that was no A/C when the weather warmed up this Spring. Local dealer fixed it in under 2 hours while I waited, it was out of refrigerant due to a torn O-ring on the compressor fitting. Replaced and re-charged under warranty, no issues at all.
Love just about everything about it. Last tractor was an '88 John Deere 750. Unbelievably capable little machine, but had some shortcomings and was open station.
I was leery of the hydro for heavy work. Not an issue.
I love the Power Steering, the Live PTO, the single joystick loader, the convenience of the hydro and of course the comfort of the cab.
Only serious complaint is the hydro whine which is indeed intensified by the cab. I keep a good pair of headphone type ear protectors hanging of the loader joystick. And yes, if you lock the cruise at max road speed, the lever seems to transmit the whine even more.
One very minor ergonomic issue is the location of the FWA (or 4WD) lever. Not terribly convenient to get at. Everything else is right where it should be IMHO.
On the range shifting thing, I finally figured out that it works MUCH better if you throttle down to an idle before shifting the lever.
I've only had one issue with the tractor (and I don't baby it) and that was no A/C when the weather warmed up this Spring. Local dealer fixed it in under 2 hours while I waited, it was out of refrigerant due to a torn O-ring on the compressor fitting. Replaced and re-charged under warranty, no issues at all.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
I agree with throttling down before shifting. Sometimes i raise and lower my FEL to rock it a bit and that helps. Strange how sometimes it shifts like butter and then others it struggles. I had a john deer aficionado walk me through my first operating procedure. He was the one who commented on the shifter, says its a kubota thing. I wonder if its possible for it not to engage to another gear? What would you do besides depressing the brakes for a few seconds like the sticker says. (besides lowering the idle and rocking the tractor?) I can depress the brake for 10 minutes and it still wont shift. Shut it off and on?
The 4wd engage lever is a bit out of the way, the location doesn't bother me so much. I guess its a good spot engineering wise. If anything I forget to disengage it before I hit the pavement. Outta sight outta mind. Sometimes I worry about stepping on the diff lock lever by accident though.
Its still a highly capable machine.
The 4wd engage lever is a bit out of the way, the location doesn't bother me so much. I guess its a good spot engineering wise. If anything I forget to disengage it before I hit the pavement. Outta sight outta mind. Sometimes I worry about stepping on the diff lock lever by accident though.
Its still a highly capable machine.
Zerks on the hoses... just what I need more things to lube! LOL. My hoses just started to wear where I could barely make out the metal in them. I took a close look at the hose routing, especially at the extremes of the FEL range. When the loader is fully up, those hoses are pushing really hard against that metal loop. I almost considered cutting it off, but then it looks like the hoses would likely rub on the level indicator mounting point. Maybe a little longer hoses would help give more slack? I don't know, but I'm going to need to find a long term solution as I'm already seeing marks on the spiral wrap.
Nepa guy, I can help with one thing as I finished puzzling it out recently: the directions for starting do say put the throttle lever at about half way to start. The rated rpm for mine as determined by the tech that set it up are 1083 to 2676. Midway, if you are able to guess it, would be around 1800 rpm. So I think what they are saying is "give it some gas" to fire it up. It then says to warm up the hydraulics and engine oil etc, set it around half max which would be 1335 or so for 5 to 10 min depending on temp. So that is a hair above dead idle. At the happy engine sound.Likes:
Being my firstish tractor, overall I think its a great machine to own. I'm still amazed at how much weight that little engine can handle. Love the cab for its heating and air conditioning.
Dislikes: (pour yourself a drink now)
The HST whine. From the kubota website: "New Integrated Cab Design- for an environment that minimizes noise" Yeah. Right. Its louder WITH the cab. Also, how it gets even louder when I engage the cruise control. No warning stickers for hearing protection with dB levels at or near 120DB. Potential lawsuit.
Shifting the gears. Annoying at its best, despite holding down the brake, sometimes I need to shift it to M and drive it a bit before I can drop it fully to L.
The windshield isn't top notch glass. Scratches too easily, no UV protection. The windshield wiper is poorly made.The front one broke (the motor) in a medium winter storm. My 1974 dodge dart has better windshield wipers.
I wish I could "roll down the window" during the summer. I like the visibility factor but don't think a door made completely out of glass is a good idea.
It gets awful hot at times even with the rear window open. I need to blast the air system. Would be nice to just have natural air cool the cab.
Inconsistencies. The manual is hard to follow, vague, and conflicts with information in other manuals. For example, The LA534 FEL manual states on page 11, "run the tractor engine below 1200 RPM until the oil temperature exceeds-1C (30 f)..." The 2650 manual states on page 23, "Set the throttle lever to about 1/2 way. Insert the key into the key switch and
turn it ON" How is it one manual says to raise it to half throttle to start it (1800 RPM) where one says keep it under 1200 RPM to warm it up?!
The website has misinformation where part numbers have been wrong. I've since had lots of stupid little things go wrong since taking ownership. Dry zerks, pins popping out, cables in the wrong places liable to cause damage, hydraulic hoses rubbing against metal frames and tearing, drain bolt and gear case getting stripped due to factory over tightening, and my latest one, mid pto shaft clicking, of which kubota shirks off. (begin rant)
It irks me being that my machine is the only one to have this problem yet they say its normal. After my complaint, Kubota corp said they would open the gear case and put a bore scope to take a look. My service manager said after a discussion with the Kubota rep, they decided against it and just gave it back to me. No paperwork, no documentation. Astonished, I spoke to another dealer and showed him my video, he called the rep for me to investigate (his 2650 also wasn't making the "normal noise") He said when he spoke to the rep he claimed he put a bore scope inside the case and it was normal. It was a lie. The service manager told me the truth. The gear case sealant hadn't been touched.
Kubota customer service. Definitely lacking, and they don't take any responsibility for their, or their dealers actions. There's a motto that comes to mind. "Lets see what we can get away with."
At one point, I actually had the opportunity to get all my money back and go green. I chose to stay with Kubota purely for the reason that my father owned one, without a hitch, for 23 years. Of course, that was then and this is now. I'm hopeful that once I get over my learning curve, and get all the kinks get worked out, my expereince will improve.
Time will tell.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Oh I see. Thank you for clarifying. Since it shares two models, I thought they modified the manual to accomodate the 3350's DPF issues with heat and burning particulates up. Do you think the "don't let it idle too long" rule still applies to the 2650?
I'll make a new thread if necessary, but while we're talking 2650, I'm preparing to drop my FEL, and attach my B2741B subframe for the B2782B snoblower and B2775 blade and put on my chains for the first time.
I never got the chance to use the hydraulic plow last year and it just sat in my garage. Now I'm ready to practice attaching and reattaching both. I could have used the blade today as my roads are heavy with thick slushy snow. Its supposed to drop to the teens this friday so I'm fighting the clock with my busy schedule to get everything ready.
I was reviewing everything I forgot last year and in the LA534 manual, on page 10, the whole page on hydraulics are confusing. It states:
"to avoid damage of the attachments do not connect attachments through the hydraulic motor to the C and D ports." (blue and red)
Is it possible to damage anything by attaching the wrong hoses? I ask because when I was reviewing the snowplow manual the hydraulic hoses have instructions to be labeled yellow and green. I dont know why they would change the color schemata from the tractor which has White, Blue, Red, Yellow. Where do I plug the green? The leftover port? I'm not sure which colors I plug into the B2714B frame yet. (I'm on the road so I can't look at it just yet)
I'll make a new thread if necessary, but while we're talking 2650, I'm preparing to drop my FEL, and attach my B2741B subframe for the B2782B snoblower and B2775 blade and put on my chains for the first time.
I never got the chance to use the hydraulic plow last year and it just sat in my garage. Now I'm ready to practice attaching and reattaching both. I could have used the blade today as my roads are heavy with thick slushy snow. Its supposed to drop to the teens this friday so I'm fighting the clock with my busy schedule to get everything ready.
I was reviewing everything I forgot last year and in the LA534 manual, on page 10, the whole page on hydraulics are confusing. It states:
"to avoid damage of the attachments do not connect attachments through the hydraulic motor to the C and D ports." (blue and red)
Is it possible to damage anything by attaching the wrong hoses? I ask because when I was reviewing the snowplow manual the hydraulic hoses have instructions to be labeled yellow and green. I dont know why they would change the color schemata from the tractor which has White, Blue, Red, Yellow. Where do I plug the green? The leftover port? I'm not sure which colors I plug into the B2714B frame yet. (I'm on the road so I can't look at it just yet)
I cleared about 6 inches of snow this morning for the first time with my 2650. I have the 63 inch B2782 front mount blower. It was glorious. My gripes with the tractor are consistent with those voiced by others above: Exhaust pipe not long enough, HST whine is a little loud, and the routing of hydraulic lines could have been done better.
Also, I think that the front headlights are just about worthless. I installed an LED light bar on the rops and it is so much better.
Also, I think that the front headlights are just about worthless. I installed an LED light bar on the rops and it is so much better.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
I have the front and rear work lights installed. Lights up the area perfectly. It is way better than the front headlights. They aim and hit the front of the attachment and aren't very useful for snow removal, but I think that would work well if you had the MMM and were working late.
Although we were calling for melting temperatures, I wanted to get out there and clear what I had for testing. It was by far the heaviest, sloppiest snow I've cleared. I was hoping for a similar weight and depth to compare to the 3350's performance from last year.
The turfs worked well. I was a little leery being the ground was so wet and I had a few ice patches. I kept it in Low, and went with 2WD up my road. No problems. I then put it in 4WD just to be safe. No traction issues at all. Great.
I did notice the rpm dropping from 2600 to 2300 with the foot pedal all the way down, So I slowed down to keep it at full RPM and it shot the wet slop a fair distance. On my last pass down, (as the temps were rising) the snow got heavier, and the RPM dropped down to 1900RPM at its lowest in trying to throw the snow. After that it just got too heavy and jammed up the chute, and I was just pushing the heavy snow. I did use the mower deck spray before I headed out. I had no sticking issues last year, but the snow was much lighter.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GUNK-Non-Stick-Mower-Spray-Protectant/3137779
So is the 2650 just as capable as the 3350 in throwing snow? I would have to say yes. Although it was much heavier and harder to compare the two, I would say they're very close. So thats good.
I will have to switch to the snowplow when it gets this heavy again to see how it performs. I'll work on that another time. Overall I am happy with the way it worked.
Although we were calling for melting temperatures, I wanted to get out there and clear what I had for testing. It was by far the heaviest, sloppiest snow I've cleared. I was hoping for a similar weight and depth to compare to the 3350's performance from last year.
The turfs worked well. I was a little leery being the ground was so wet and I had a few ice patches. I kept it in Low, and went with 2WD up my road. No problems. I then put it in 4WD just to be safe. No traction issues at all. Great.
I did notice the rpm dropping from 2600 to 2300 with the foot pedal all the way down, So I slowed down to keep it at full RPM and it shot the wet slop a fair distance. On my last pass down, (as the temps were rising) the snow got heavier, and the RPM dropped down to 1900RPM at its lowest in trying to throw the snow. After that it just got too heavy and jammed up the chute, and I was just pushing the heavy snow. I did use the mower deck spray before I headed out. I had no sticking issues last year, but the snow was much lighter.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GUNK-Non-Stick-Mower-Spray-Protectant/3137779
So is the 2650 just as capable as the 3350 in throwing snow? I would have to say yes. Although it was much heavier and harder to compare the two, I would say they're very close. So thats good.
I will have to switch to the snowplow when it gets this heavy again to see how it performs. I'll work on that another time. Overall I am happy with the way it worked.
Attachments
I got to use mine today after all. We also got 5-6 inches of heavy wet slop. I tried to use my 6 1/2 foot plow but the ground isn't frozen enough. Tried the rear blower but popped my first pin in 4 years. Changed out the plow for the 60 inch bucket and finished the job. Only spun once on thick slush. Great machine and had fun. I also added front and rear work lights. Headlights are useless. Glad you had fun with yours too.
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