trailer issue

[NEPA Guy]

I got my equalizer hitch in the mail a few days ago. It wants the load on the trailer to set it up properly. So I was preparing to drive the 2650 on the trailer for the first time.

When I was with the salesman and ordering the trailer I told him it was for the 2650 and my zero turn. I was concerned that because the zero turn had such a narrow wheel base in the front I wouldnt be able to get it on and wasn't sure if I should upgrade the ramp to the mesh one and he said dont worry about it! the ramps are adjustable! You'll be fine...

I ordered some extra D rings and rub rails. I thought it would be good to have some extra tie down points. It became a custom order. When it came in I went to pick it up and the sales guy said hey look they added some extra wood on the sides to give you more working room. I thought nothing of it. I was just like Oh cool.

I moved the ramps inwards as far as they could go. When i started to drive towards the ramp is when I noticed the front wheels of the 2650 just touch the inside edges of the ramps.

Yeah.

They should have had the foresight not to weld it to the edge. I mean really. You cant drive anything up the ramp edge when you would drive straight over the wheel well. Morons.

Granted its my fault for not being more thorough, but jeez, this is my first tractor, my first trailer. I go to these places looking for help...

I registered it for three years when I got the trailer. Just over $500 in fees. Trading it in could be an option, but at a loss. I havent called the place I bought it from yet. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get anyone today. Its the first day of antlered rifle.

Any suggestions on how to fix this other than cutting and re welding. I highly doubt the dealership has that capability.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Your cheapest solution is to add another pipe mount and a longer pipe. Only need to move one ramp inward to accomodate mower.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Probably a picture issue but... it looks like your pivot pipe allows you to wiggle the ramps inward but you are saying that is still not enough... I agree, unless your zero turn fits on the aft end of the trailer, trying to drive over the wheel boxes is dumb but, if you need the full width of the trailer, then its of use.


Yeah, if the ramps are set too far out, cutting the hinge bar off like TJ said is the easiest and cheapest alternative. Or, a welding shop could cut the bar mounts off and move each one in 4-6" and re-weld them. A third alternative would be to add a 6" strip up the inside of each ramp topped with mesh for better traction. That alternative makes the ramps heavier to lift though...

I bet a good welding shop could fabricate and install you just what you need for well under $200. And, you could add any little custom features like extra skid plates or tie down tabs while there. Then you'll have a truly "custom" trailer. Otherwise, the trailer looks awesome.

You'll get it figured out.

Ray

 

[NEPA Guy]

Theres not any welding or fabrication shops nearby. I tried to find one years back with no luck. Ended up being 80 miles away. I'll have to start looking again. I'm not overly concerned about the zero turn. I've got an ATV ramp I could have used. The tractor is my main concern. I'd swear some days I'm cursed. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[sdk1968]

so you just need 1 ramp to move farther "inboard"?

or are your wheel wells also too far inboard?

 

[D2Cat]

You say you're not concerned about your zero turn. Not knowing what brand of 0-turn or it's wheel configuration, it's hard to say, but you could have a real challenge getting it up those ramps.

I would want to be real satisfied it would go up safely before any modifications to your existing ramps.

A tailgate with expanded metal and proper support under it may be the best solution.

 

[NEPA Guy]

The zero turn seemed less of an issue at the moment. I do of course want it to work well in all situations. I will keep that in mind when going over solutions.

The zero turn is a Scag Tiger Cat 52"

As I thought, since its the first week of rifled deer hunting, the dealer is operating on a skeleton crew. I sent the service manager a picture. He said he would try to get back to me but it may take over a week to offer a solution.

The ramps do not move close enough together. Here is a better photo.

Its as close as can be and its 39 inches from the inside edges. I would need at least 30 inches to accommodate the B2650 front tires and 26 inches to accommodate the Scag.

 

[sinisterbiker]

What part of PA ya in !

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[OldeEnglish]

The only thing I can think of as an easy fix would be to make one solid ramp by welding the two together. At the same time that would suck trying to lift that, but they do make a trailer ramp lift assist. Check out this link.

http://www.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200316067_200316067?hotline=false

 

[NEPA Guy]

what part of pa ya in !

Sent from my sm-g930t using tapatalk

north east pa. Mt pocono! I should be hunting!

 

[NEPA Guy]

The only thing I can think of as an easy fix would be to make one solid ramp by welding the two together. At the same time that would suck trying to lift that, but they do make a trailer ramp lift assist. Check out this link.

http://www.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200316067_200316067?hotline=false

The link isn't functioning but i googled trailer ramp lift assist. I see what you're saying.

I just went to the manufacturer site. They sell a mesh gate. I wonder If I can just swap it out?! Looks like a good solution!

 

[D2Cat]

Looks like the easiest way to solve your problem is to have someone cut off the ears, (the round bar goes through) on the inside of each ramp.

Then have them welded closer to the center of the trailer. The only additional part needed would be a couple of longer solid rods. (and some paint)

I still think you're dreaming if you think a 0-turn will go up those ramps! It will be flopping side to side like a fish trying to get off a stringer.

 

[NEPA Guy]

So I guess the mesh gate is the way to go for the zero turn?

I tell ya. i aint buyin nothin else till I get you guys approval!

Why do I continue to listen to these dang salesmen!!! They steer me wrong every time!

 

[D2Cat]

The gate you show in post #11 is what you need to solve the problem with both machines. I has the width and it has the expanded metal mesh which will allow the safe loading of the 0-turn.

I'd go back to the dealer and ask them to modify or add as you want. Let them foot the bill.

Get the ramps as long as you can because it will help getting over the hinged area with your 0-turn.

 

[NEPA Guy]

Thank you D2Cat, I'll go with that. As much as I'm in the right. I know they won't foot the bill. I'll try, but I doubt it.

I've tried contacting the manufacturer directly to see if they will remedy this for me. Sent an email and left a message.

Funny, I asked about the mesh gate when I first had gone over the details when ordering the trailer. The salesman said I wouldn't need it. I guess he had good intentions trying to save me a buck. I just dont get it.

I'm learning that this state is very depressed financially. It has a stab and grab mentality when it comes to business. Property values are down, foreclosed homes everywhere. I've gotten into arguments with virtually every contractor I've had come work on the house. No work for me up here. If I was back in Colorado, I wouldnt have had half the battles I've had to date. Its sad really. I spent most of my childhood here. Its changed so much in the past 30 years.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[OldeEnglish]

The link isn't functioning but i googled trailer ramp lift assist. I see what you're saying.

I just went to the manufacturer site. They sell a mesh gate. I wonder If I can just swap it out?! Looks like a good solution!

Sorry, for some reason that link got messed up, here is what I'm referring to.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200316067_200316067

 

[sdk1968]

much better picture this time...

in post #11 is the best looking solution for you... but it will be heavier to fold up.

a real easy way to fix this is to get a longer bar & move the ears..

or you could do a full width bar... thats pretty easy for you too.. you dont even have to cut the ears off that way.. you can just take out the bar, move the ramps over to clear the other ear & put the bar back in..

just a note for you: your turf tiger is NOT going to like those ramps if you dont put some mesh on them. & depending on your tires size (24's?) you will drop down in those spaces a pretty good bit.. making you kinda "hop" up that ramp.

im fairly new here but have been recommending this trailer to everyone who asks: its what i run for all my toys & it handles them all.. from 100lbs to 10K.

pretty cheap too.

 

[OldeEnglish]

much better picture this time...

in post #11 is the best looking solution for you... but it will be heavier to fold up.

a real easy way to fix this is to get a longer bar & move the ears..

or you could do a full width bar... thats pretty easy for you too.. you dont even have to cut the ears off that way.. you can just take out the bar, move the ramps over to clear the other ear & put the bar back in..

just a note for you: your turf tiger is NOT going to like those ramps if you dont put some mesh on them. & depending on your tires size (24's?) you will drop down in those spaces a pretty good bit.. making you kinda "hop" up that ramp.

im fairly new here but have been recommending this trailer to everyone who asks: its what i run for all my toys & it handles them all.. from 100lbs to 10K.

pretty cheap too.

That's what I would like to get but with the back end solid across. I borrow my buddy's trailer that is a tilt like that but is a HD steel trailer that he uses for small excavators and rollers. They sure are nice, aluminum where I live would be a plus with all the road salt, one I saw locally for sale at a dealer was $9K Cost to borrow one he two times a year I use it.... bottle of rum tough to beat that price.

 

[NEPA Guy]

I looked at the aluminum trailers too. Its much more $$ than I could justify.

I agree the turf tiger wont like the ramps but it's for personal use. Just to bring it to the shop when it needs fixing. Chances are I'll be using a winch to get it up on the trailer. Thing died on me 3 times last season. Once was due to ethanol gunking up my engine and twice were pulley issues. I've since switched to ethanol free gas.

I do like the idea of the mesh. It would be easier to deal with when the time comes.

I'm gonna have to wait till next week to see what options I have unless I hear from the manufacturer first. Installing a longer bar may be the option I have to go. I'm broke, especially with xmas coming. The dealership already told me they have to wait to see what the fabricator says to figure what it'll cost me. (i knew they would try to shaft me)

I'll try and argue my point and see if we can do it as painlessly as possible. Maybe if they would have recommended the correct solution for me the first time, or noticed they built the trailer differently when it arrived, I wouldnt be in this mess. As usual its my fault for being the rookie. Unfair advantage if ya ask me.

 

[clay45]

I also have a Tiger Cat 52" and a similar trailer with the same issue. I managed to drive mine up on the very edge of the angle iron but back back down was a definite pucker factor. A welder suggested welding a strip of 3" angle iron to the inside edges of the ramps which would be sufficient. Haven't done anything and had hoped there was some sort of expanded metal version that could be mounted to the existing ramps when you need it and removed when you don't.