Wire Splice

[AndyM]

I am adding some new Rops lights and want to connect the relay to the ignition "on" wire so the circuit is only active when I am running. Question - I want to splice in but don't really like (trust) those blue clamp on clips. Is there a better alternative or should I just solder it?

Thanks

 

[85Hokie]

I am adding some new Rops lights and want to connect the relay to the ignition "on" wire so the circuit is only active when I am running. Question - I want to splice in but don't really like (trust) those blue clamp on clips. Is there a better alternative or should I just solder it?

Thanks

I would not add STRAIGHT to the circuit. I would add a RELAY to the circuit, then the load straight to the battery.

AND why do you think you have to have it switched? With the lights now days, it would be hard to walk away from them lit - and forget that they are on.

Even if you needed to leave the new type of LED lights on for an hour, it would not hurt the battery.

But to answer your question, if you must tap in, cut the wire, splice, solder , then shrink wrap.

 

[AndyM]

Got the relay all ready to go. The plan was to activate the relay off the ignition and have the relay run the switches to the lights. I plan on switching them just because I like the idea of being able to turn them on and off as needed. Control freak I guess.

Sounds like soldering it is.

Thanks

 

[DaTow'd]

Don't a fuse before the switch
best wishes
Hank

 

[Grouse Feathers]

On the BX2370s (the BX25 should be the same) there are three leads wrapped in tape in the wiring harness next to the pto in the rear of the tractor. One lead is a ground, the second lead is a 10 amp switched circuit shared with the power outlet, and the third lead is a 20 amp always on circuit. You could use the 10 amp circuit directly or use it to control the relay and use the 20 amp circuit for power. There are connectors already on the leads that you should be able to match at the local hardware store.

 

[85Hokie]

On the BX2370s (the BX25 should be the same) there are three leads wrapped in tape in the wiring harness next to the pto in the rear of the tractor. One lead is a ground, the second lead is a 10 amp switched circuit shared with the power outlet, and the third lead is a 20 amp always on circuit. You could use the 10 amp circuit directly or use it to control the relay and use the 20 amp circuit for power. There are connectors already on the leads that you should be able to match at the local hardware store.

Here is an old file that I kept - not sure who to credit.

"the red wire is constant hot,
and the red with blue tracer is hot only when the key is on.
the red/black is 20 amps hot all the time fused at the fuse block.
The red/blue is off the DC outlet and is fused at 10 amps and switched off the key.
The black is ground. You can use a relay to control the 20 Amp with the 10 amp key switch,
that how Kubtoa uses it with there work light option.

 

[AndyM]

That's great info on the pto wiring harness - sounds like it might be more easily accessable and connectable. I will see if I can find it tomorrow.

 

[Kennyd4110]

I used one of those "add-a-circuit" things to trigger the relay I added. Mine is similar to this one, but I'm not sure what type of fuses the BX uses.


https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ

 

[Tooljunkie]

The fuse taps work very well, as long as you dont exceed what the curcuit can handle.

I solder my connections when splicing into a circuit, two layers of tape and of course a fuse.

 

[bxray]

I used a relay and put the trigger wire on the lights.
I soldered the wires to the main po but I did not cut the wire.
Peal back the insulation and wrap the relay wite around it and solder together.
This way the main is not spliced and will mot make a week connection.

Ray

 

[AndyM]

Thanks all. I will make sure the fuseing is taken care. Good thoughts on the connection options.
Andy