I have a few pics just wanted to know is anyone sees any issues with this gasket head or block.
Is this head gasket blown?
- Thread starter Lzybmbjj30
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Not sure what you mean. Did you repair a blown gasket and then experience the same failure in 20 min?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Morjp2dOYE&feature=youtu.be
This was happening about 20 minutes into mowing. This was before I opened it up and took pics of the head gasket.
This was happening about 20 minutes into mowing. This was before I opened it up and took pics of the head gasket.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Unless the starter is stuck running it's just blow by, pull the orange tube off... oh wait that won't do you any good as you've pulled the head off of it.
Well now for more good news, You're going to need to put it back together, with a new head gasket, and don't forget the O-ring for the oil tube, and do a compression test to see if you have a ring problem, then if you do you'll have to tear it down complely and rebuild it.
Well now for more good news, You're going to need to put it back together, with a new head gasket, and don't forget the O-ring for the oil tube, and do a compression test to see if you have a ring problem, then if you do you'll have to tear it down complely and rebuild it.
Its so hard to determine the source of the smoke as we cant smell it. Diesel fuel,motor oil,hydraulic oil or antifreeze are the possibilities. It appears the smoke is coming from the side of the block, like something is spraying or contacting the exhaust.
rbargeron
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When a head gasket is tightened into place its soft metal rings crush between the hard iron head and block, forming an intimate fit to seal high-pressure combustion gases. After one tightening, the gasket won't seal as well again. It may seal enough to work for a while, but will usually fail early.
Can a head gasket be cleaned up and re-used? Yes. Is it a good idea? No. Microscopic leaks can act as small blow torches, damaging the head and/or block, or pressurizing the cooling system, mixing coolant into the oil, all manner of bad stuff. Don't take the chance. Put on a new head gasket.
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Not trying to be a smart azz, but you need to be sure to clean the head surface and block "as clean as a stainless steel skillet if you were going to fry eggs in it clean".
Any short cuts will come back to more grief, meaning time, money, labor and frustration.
In the future it may save you some work to try to determine what the possible causes of the problem might be before tearing into an engine. As North Idaho Wolfman suggested, knowing the compression readings help determine the problem you were observing. Because this eliminates a major breakdown of the entire engine.
Characteristics of the engine would also help others to isolate the problem. For example, has the engine ever overheated? Have you done maintenance regularly..does it have correct oil level? Have you noticed any unusual noises while it's running.....etc.?
If you plan on keeping your machine, and want to know the upper part of the engine is OK, you can take the head to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed for about $40. This will confirm the head is not cracked. They can also make sure the valves are seating correctly. This is not necessary, but sure provides peace of mind at a minimal price.
Any short cuts will come back to more grief, meaning time, money, labor and frustration.
In the future it may save you some work to try to determine what the possible causes of the problem might be before tearing into an engine. As North Idaho Wolfman suggested, knowing the compression readings help determine the problem you were observing. Because this eliminates a major breakdown of the entire engine.
Characteristics of the engine would also help others to isolate the problem. For example, has the engine ever overheated? Have you done maintenance regularly..does it have correct oil level? Have you noticed any unusual noises while it's running.....etc.?
If you plan on keeping your machine, and want to know the upper part of the engine is OK, you can take the head to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed for about $40. This will confirm the head is not cracked. They can also make sure the valves are seating correctly. This is not necessary, but sure provides peace of mind at a minimal price.
Wow, that sucks. Sorry new to all of this.
The engine did overheat once. I had water in the radiator but then filled it to the top cap with 50/50 green coolant.
Also, I don't know where to find the oil tube or the o ring that goes to it.
I've heard the head gasket can go bad if the head is warped and I need to have it sanded down, is this true. Also what's the best way to clean the head and block before putting on a new gasket?
The engine did overheat once. I had water in the radiator but then filled it to the top cap with 50/50 green coolant.
Also, I don't know where to find the oil tube or the o ring that goes to it.
I've heard the head gasket can go bad if the head is warped and I need to have it sanded down, is this true. Also what's the best way to clean the head and block before putting on a new gasket?
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As D2Cat said, since you have it off, have it magnafluxed to check for cracks. They can also check for warping. If it is warped, sometimes they can machine that out. If it's warped to badly, it would have to be replaced. As for cleaning, it comes back from the shop pretty clean. Anything else can be cleaned with a wire brush and steel wool. None of this is prohibitively expensive except for the head replacement.
The first picture you posted. In the upper right hand corner is a nipple stinking up. The o-ring goes there. Get the correct one, don't guess. Cost about $1.25 at dealer!
You don't need to get the head "sanded down" until you have it magnafluxed. That process will tell you if there is a crack in the head. If the head has a crack it become a boat anchor, and you find another one.
When the machine shop has the head, they can give you advise on further machine work needed, if it needs any.
That "sanding down" you were told about is a process used the make the head "flat" again on the bottom if it is warped (sometimes caused by extreme overheating). It's actually a milling process often called "resurfacing" a head.
You don't need to get the head "sanded down" until you have it magnafluxed. That process will tell you if there is a crack in the head. If the head has a crack it become a boat anchor, and you find another one.
When the machine shop has the head, they can give you advise on further machine work needed, if it needs any.
That "sanding down" you were told about is a process used the make the head "flat" again on the bottom if it is warped (sometimes caused by extreme overheating). It's actually a milling process often called "resurfacing" a head.
So only have the head checked and not the block? Also I don't remember any ring on that part you are referring to.
The nipple sticking up from the block had an o-rong. Its quite clear in the pictures. Where it went is anybodys guess. Usually packed with the new head gasket.
The best advice i can give you is find someone with experience to coach you through the process of cleaning and re-assembly. Proper tools and a few pointers and it will be easier if you need to do something like this again. A repair manual will give you torque specifications and proper procedures for setting valves. These things need to be done correctly or it may not run properly or at all.
The best advice i can give you is find someone with experience to coach you through the process of cleaning and re-assembly. Proper tools and a few pointers and it will be easier if you need to do something like this again. A repair manual will give you torque specifications and proper procedures for setting valves. These things need to be done correctly or it may not run properly or at all.
I found a manual for the engine that has a page regarding valve timing.
"The timing for opening and closing the valve is very important to achieve effective air intake and sufficient gas exhaust.
The appropriate timing can be obtained by aligning the marks in the crank gear and cam gear when assembling."
Inlet valve open 1 0.35 rad (20degrees) before T.D.C
inlet valve close 2 0.79 rad (45 degrees) after bcc
Exhaust valve open 3 0.87 rad (50 degrees) before BDC
Exhaust valve close 0.26 rad (15 degrees) after TDC"
Are these the specifications for the valves you are referring to and if so after putting everything back together is this the only thing I would need to make sure was correct regarding engine settings?
"The timing for opening and closing the valve is very important to achieve effective air intake and sufficient gas exhaust.
The appropriate timing can be obtained by aligning the marks in the crank gear and cam gear when assembling."
Inlet valve open 1 0.35 rad (20degrees) before T.D.C
inlet valve close 2 0.79 rad (45 degrees) after bcc
Exhaust valve open 3 0.87 rad (50 degrees) before BDC
Exhaust valve close 0.26 rad (15 degrees) after TDC"
Are these the specifications for the valves you are referring to and if so after putting everything back together is this the only thing I would need to make sure was correct regarding engine settings?
If all you have done is pull off the head, none of the timing issues have changed. You can replace the head and gasket and then find the section in your manual regarding setting the rocker arm gaps. If you have never had the engine dramatically over heated, the block should be okay.
Ok so the rocker arm gaps are likely the only thing that changes and need be adjusted when you take the engine apart?
Also is this the gap you're referring to?
Clearance between Rocker Arm Shaft and shaft Hole? is this what this is called generally in the manual?
Also is this the gap you're referring to?
Clearance between Rocker Arm Shaft and shaft Hole? is this what this is called generally in the manual?
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Number 1 in the picture. probably called rocker arm gap. It would be in the cylinder head section
do I need a torque wrench and angle gauge to make sure all the bolts are calibrated right when I put the engine back together?