Getting tractor. Need trailer help.

[white cloud]

Hi All,

First, thanks for reading this. This is a trailer needs question. My wife and I own 65 acres of timberland in S.C. We have concluded that we need our first tractor and I think we will pull the trigger on an L2501 HST. It will have the Kubota loader with QD bucket and a 60 bush hog. The dealer fills the rear tires when they fit a loader. One thing I noticed is when you attach this stuff to the tractor you have a lot of length. So my first question is an 18' trailer long enough? I am told that the loader and bucket weigh in around 1000lbs and bush hog is another 600. The tractor weighs 2600. I am guessing the tire filling adds 500. So the entire package is 4700lbs. Looking on the various trailer websites I see that a tandem axle 7000GVW trailer will weigh about 2000lbs empty. This does not seem like a lot of safety margin to me. Am I confused here? I don't want to spend money needlessly but we need a trailer that will get the job done.

Thanks,

White Cloud

 

[bearskinner]

A 7K trailer will be enough capacity wise, for 4600 lbs, if you can afford it go heavier. but there's lots more to think about. Trailer brakes on one axle is a must, both is much better. Pay a little extra and get GOOD tires on your trailer. Most trailers come with light load range C tires. Upgrade to E rated. If I was purchasing new, it would be a no brainier. Your tow vehicle and how you hook it up is huge. A lot of people use a hollow hitch receptacle, with a cheap tow ball, neither rated at 7K, often only 3500 lbs. I highly recommend a load stabilizing system, with a 10K rating and two heavy arms. Get a 10K tow ball with 1 1/4" shank. You are ultimately responsible for your load. You WILL be held responsible for an accident. Do it right and take the worry out of the equation.
Weather you choose chains and binders or straps, get quality. Get straps with clip together ends and axle straps, so it is impossible to come apart, or chains with quality binders. I have had the same car hauler trailer for 26 years, I tow cars, trucks, equipment all over the country. No issues, and I always feel safe. What's a little peace of mind worth?

 

[Dalroo]

Just my opinion, but if you ever plan to do more, having a larger trailer might be to your advantage. As you have already noted, a 7k trailer is marginal for your needs. Will it work, probably, but there isn't a huge margin left over - maybe just a few hundred pounds. And as I understand it, the tractor weight is factored with no fluids. Add 10 gallons of fuel, and that much or more in lubes, and you've eaten up another 150+ pounds. With that, you are right at max on the trailer.

Not sure on the length of your tractor, but if you upgrade to a 10k trailer, moving to a 20' might only cost a few hundred more than an 18'. It will also give you a bit more room in adjusting the load to keep the weight off the tongue.

I am in the market for a trailer as well, and from what I am finding, going a bit bigger for comfort, safety, and peace of mind is worth it in the long run. It also will give me the ability to use for other things. I have a friend with a skid steer and we've talked about trading some work. Can't do that with too small a trailer.

 

[BAP]

I have an 18' trailer with beaver tail. With my B2920 with loader and 4' brush mower on, the mower hangs out over then end by about 16". I would go with a 20' trailer, at least 4 ton preferable 5 ton trailer and definitely brakes on both axles with good tires. Paying a little extra up front for a good trailer is worth it in the long run by having a good experience towing it and a safe trip. You don't mention what you have for a tow vehicle, but you might also need a weight distribution hitch if your truck isn't heavy enough.

 

[NEPA Guy]

I'm in a similar situation.

I agree to go with a 10K rated trailer. It has more capacity if you need it and it has a better braking system. My trailer is 2K and my setup 5K. Most 7k and 10K trailers weigh in pretty closely. Anywhere from 1800 to 2200 lbs, so at that point it doesn't make sense not to get the 10K. I'm pretty sure its just an axle weight rating thing.

I went with a 20' dovetail car hauler. thats leaves me 18' of actual "flat bed"

My b2650 with attachments comes to approx 19' long. I can turn my backhoe to the side to help me make it fit if needs be. (I'm still waiting for my trailer to be delivered so I haven't played with it yet.)

Then you should think about how you're gonna get your tractor up on the bed if it won't start. A come along or a winch would come in handy. If you go for a winch you need a plate welded to the frame to attach whichever winch you may choose. (I've decided on a warn 8K)

Get the exact towing capabilities of your truck. Tires and all. I upgraded to a tundra thinking I was all well and good but now I realized that I need to buy a Weight Distribution Hitch to make my setup work properly. Turns out after 5K of Gross Trailer Weight I need one. Thats another $700 I didn't anticipate. Also make sure you have enough room on the front of the trailer for you to install a WDH, if you need one.

I got a toolbox welded to the front of my trailer and now I realize that my WDH wont fit like it normally should so now I have to buy an adapter kit to make it happen. Another $75 and it makes my job a little harder.

Have a knowledgable salesman sell you your trailer. Try an RV place. They will probably be the most helpful. I ordered my trailer from my tractor dealership and after the fact, when I asked about the wdh I needed for my truck, he said to call toyota. So I ended up calling the trailer manufacturer directly and found the helpful information I needed.

 

[Daren Todd]

NEPA Guy, Try your local camper sales place for the weight distribution hitch They deal with them daily, and have pretty good prices on the hitches.

Local Rv place in town is high as hell on the prices for the campers. But sell the weight distribution hitches for around $500 installed. Other rv places in the area install the hitch for around $120, plus what ever the hitch retails for. Usually somewhere between $280 to $400 depending on the style.

 

[white cloud]

OK, you have convinced me that I am not crazy and that I do need a 20' 10K trailer. Honestly, these trailers look like you could land a small plane on one but the number tell the tale. I am thinking that I want standup ramps. Any thoughts?

I have a 2015 RAM 3500 Cummins so I think that I have plenty of truck. We pull a travel trailer with it with a nice Equalizer hitch. I am thinking that I will buy appropriate spring arms and brackets for the equipment trailer.

 

[Brazos]

I bought a 2501 a couple months ago with a FEL and 60" cutter. I bought a basic 7000lb dual axle, 18' trailer with single axle trailer brakes. It worked fine. The cutter overhangs about a foot. 20' would be better but the 18' is fine. i came up with the same math as you on equipment weight and knew I would be on the edge. I chose 18' as I thought it would be handy for other things as 20' gets kind of long and I would use it for other things more than hauling a tractor. Other than bringing my tractor and cutter home from the dealership I was not sure how often I would be hauling both of them together. My tractor will rarely leave the property unless I am taking it in for service. If I do I would just be taking the tractor without the cutter and an 18' 7000lb trailer would be more than enough.

 

[Boo]

I have just gone through this trailer and tractor upgrade issue. My story is similar to White Clouds, except for trailer laws in Florida.

I had a 2001 F150 with a 7700 lb trailer towing limit. I also had a 7k dual axle trailer with brakes only on one axle. The trailer was only 1,300 lbs. I towed it with 6,000 lbs vehicles on it with no problem. Previously, I had only my little BX and FEL and brush hog with mid-mount mower.

Then skip 13 years. I tripled the size of my tractor and implements.

Now, my tractor with grapple and backhoe weigh 8,000 lbs. Neither my 7k trailer nor my F150 would serve to move my tractor anywhere legally, and probably not physically - but then again .......

The state law in Florida now requires brakes on each axle of the trailer and my Nissan truck requires a weight distribution hitch.

May I suggest that it is important to see if the laws in your state and neighboring states have changed since you last checked? Mine did.

 

[Sammy3700]

White Cloud, all are great ideas. The only thing I will add is we now know your tow vehicle and you do not need the weight distributing hitch on a 1-ton truck. Not sure of your location in SC but look at Agri Supply for the solid, one piece plug for your hitch. These have the 1 1/4 hole as mentioned and both the ball and plug will be rated minimum 10,000lbs. Both our trailers do have flip up ramps. One is a tag along 20' long x 84" wide with 2-5200 axles, one goose neck 24 1/2 flat,2 1/2 dove tail x 84" wide 2-7000 axles.

 

[nickelplated5s]

I have a 2015 RAM 3500 Cummins so I think that I have plenty of truck. We pull a travel trailer with it with a nice Equalizer hitch. I am thinking that I will buy appropriate spring arms and brackets for the equipment trailer.

Why would you buy two "Equalizer" hitches?

 

[NEPA Guy]

Why would you buy two "Equalizer" hitches?

I don't think he would buy another hitch altogether. Just the arms. They are interchangeable. It seems that the arms are designed for a specific tongue weight involved. The ones I'm looking at are rated 600-1200 lbs. but if I had a tongue weight of 500 lbs, I would need to but another set of arms rated for up to that weight (or at least thats what the reese tech/salesman was telling me). I don't know if its really all that necessary...Correct me if I'm wrong

Another set of brackets would stay permanently attached to his new trailer. That makes sense.

Oh, and thanks Daren Todd, if I would of known, I would have just bought my trailer at this one camper sales place I was first pricing trailers at. I would have preferred the one stop shop...

 

[white cloud]

NEPA Guy, you are right on target. I will just buy the brackets and spring bars. In fact the bars for the travel trailer may work fine for the equipment trailer because the tongue weights are about the same. If you keep the Equalizer lubed it is a nice quiet hitch.

I have talked to Big Tex and Maxey trailers reps. Like most of the people replying to this post, they think I need a 10,000lbs equipment trailer so it is time to get this purchased. Another thing I learned from the guy at the feed and seed is they sell pallets of fertilizer and load that with a fork lift. They can't do that if you bring a utility trailer. So equipment trailer it is.

I thank all that replied for their thoughtful insights. This is a nice forum and people don't seem to go off the rails if someone has a different opinion. I suspect that I will have a 100 implement questions in the near future.

 

[eipo]

If you're thinking about loading pallets, you may want to get a deck over. Loading pallets on a trailer, unless its long enough, with fenders can be a PITA. And it usually ends up being tongue heavy.

 

[Daren Todd]

Oh, and thanks Daren Todd, if I would of known, I would have just bought my trailer at this one camper sales place I was first pricing trailers at. I would have preferred the one stop shop...

Your welcome

My wife spent 6 months shopping for campers. So I asked lots of questions One was installing the WDH, if I purchased a camper, or trailer from a private owner and needed to get one They said no problem, bring it on in

 

[zin01]

Hey white cloud sense you have a 1 ton ( nice truck by the way) I would and did get a B&W gooseneck hitch it the bed it doesn't have rails and takes up no room in the bed and look at a gooseneck trailer. They are usually a little heavier duty trailers and the difference between pulling a gooseneck and a bumper pull are night and day a gooseneck doesn't sway at all and backing them up is a lot easier to. Also for probably right around the same price you are paying to get the weight distributing hitch you can get and have the B&W hitch installed. Just my $.02


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[white cloud]

zin01,

That is an interesting idea. The truck came prepped for a gooseneck/5th wheel plate as there are removable plugs and a socket for brakes in the bed. Is it really that much better? Also would that be overkill for a L2501 with implements? Just asking. I wonder how much more a goose neck trailer costs? I will have to research.

Thanks, White Cloud

 

[D2Cat]

White Cloud, are you going to have any critters on your 65 acres?

I have a goose neckstock trailer I used to haul an L3250 360 miles home last weekend.....in my stock trailer! Pulls nice at any speed. Sets low, so easy to load.

If you go with a gooseneck be sure to get something that sets low.

 

[eipo]

I went with a dump trailer sized to fit my 2650 in. I didn't want to have multiple trailers and the dump trailer has about paid for itself.

It's hauled wood, topsoil, asphalt, junk to the landfill.

sent from a field

 

[zin01]

zin01,



That is an interesting idea. The truck came prepped for a gooseneck/5th wheel plate as there are removable plugs and a socket for brakes in the bed. Is it really that much better? Also would that be overkill for a L2501 with implements? Just asking. I wonder how much more a goose neck trailer costs? I will have to research.



Thanks, White Cloud

I don't think it would be an overkill once you have a trailer, like a tractor you will always find uses for it. And yes it really is that much better to pull. I don't know how your roads are where your at but here in Texas the roads are pretty bad and that seems to make bumper pulls sway a bit.


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