Near mint G5200. Advice?

[Elasinthe]

First post! So I am acquiring my dads old G5200 this week since my 1/2 acre lawn is in dire need of some TLC. With only 500 hours on the clock and near mint condition, how could I not jump on the chance?!

The tractor was parked in the garage and winterized 10 years ago. Yesterday I went over and checked it out. Clean engine, I mean cleeeeean. I slapped in a new battery, 1/4oz of HotShots EDT and some fresh diesel, and lit the glow plug. First try and it fires up immediately (I should emphasize immediately) with the slightest puff of smoke, purring like a tiger. I never thought I'd get so excited about a tractor before, but I though the same thing about a diesel truck last year.

Last night I ordered new Carlisle front tires to replace the flats, and a new fan belt. I plan on doing a full fluid change, deck belt, and lube service once the tires get here and I can move it to it's new home. Is there anything else I should take into consideration for maintenance after sitting so long? I will eventually look into new rear tires but the originals are still holding air and seem in pretty good condition for their age.

 

[bucktail]

I'd probably keep a spare fuel filter on hand if it was stored with fuel in the tank. There's actually a fungus that will grow in diesel.

 

[Elasinthe]

I'd probably keep a spare fuel filter on hand if it was stored with fuel in the tank. There's actually a fungus that will grow in diesel.

No kidding!? I did not know that. I'll get a few to have on hand and will swap it out once I get it here. He put some sort of fuel stabilizer in there and it had about 1/2" of fuel at the bottom, if that. I will run the full fresh tank through it this weekend and refresh again.

Are there any recommended oil or fuel additives? I plan to use what I use in the truck.

 

[BruceP]

I purchased a G5200H several weeks ago.... It is not as nice as yours. These things were (and are) highly sought-after for their reliability and ruggedness.

Some things to know:
*) Keep the steering-gears lubed. Especially the grease-nipple for the pivot of the large gear-sector. This may be the very poorest designed component of the entire tractor. It was so bad that Kubota actually RE-designed using bearings part way through production. (Your model# and the below parts-list will tell you which you have)

*) Keep the removable screen infront of radiator clean!! Lest the engine will overheat. Pull it out and use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing.

*) The mower-deck tends to RUST-OUT much faster than any other brands of that vintage. (Same as Japanese cars of that vintage) Replacement mower-decks are VERY hard to find. Use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing. (DO NOT USE WATER HOSE!) Consider using spray-bottle with used oil to coat underneath during winter-storage. Treat that mower-deck as it it was made out of gold. (Replacing it costs about the same pound-for-pound)

*) You said you ordered a fan-belt. I would recommend NOT replacing unless you need to. You have to disassemble the driveshaft to the hydro unit to replace it.

*) The twin-belts off the front of the engine are WAYYY too expensive from Kubota (over $100) These are METRIC LENGTH belts (between 32 inch and 33 inch)
I ordered my belts from ==> http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/Kubota 66021-25080--kubota-66021-25080-v-belt-set-of-2.html

*) After sitting that long, consider drain/flush/refill of coolant. NEVER mix tapwater with antifreeze. ONLY use distilled water. (or premixed antifreeze)

--------------------------
Some URLs to bookmark:
General lube info
https://www.kubota.com/service/LubricantMaintenance.aspx

Often used parts lookup
http://www.kubota.com/part/PartsLookup.aspx

Online, dynamic, parts lists
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx

 

[Elasinthe]

I purchased a G5200H several weeks ago.... It is not as nice as yours. These things were (and are) highly sought-after for their reliability and ruggedness.

Some things to know:
*) Keep the steering-gears lubed. This may be the very poorest designed component of the entire tractor. Especially the grease-nipple for the pivot of the large gear-sector.

*) Keep the removable screen infront of radiator clean!! Lest the engine will overheat. Pull it out and use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing.

*) The mower-deck tends to RUST-OUT much faster than any other brands of that vintage. (Same as Japanese cars of that vintage) Replacement mower-decks are VERY hard to find. Use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing. Consider using spray-bottle with used oil to coat underneath during winter-storage.

--------------------------
Some URLs to bookmark:
General lube info
https://www.kubota.com/service/LubricantMaintenance.aspx

Often used parts lookup
http://www.kubota.com/part/PartsLookup.aspx

Online, dynamic, parts lists
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx

Excellent info, many thanks! Not sure if they're zerk or needle fittings but I have both and will do that regularly. I'll be sure to remove and check out the mower deck thoroughly too. I know it's always been well stored but not sure about the deck cleaning. Maybe I'll apply a coating to prevent corrosion. Or maybe just oil spray it regularly I guess? The oil spray bottle is clever thinking. I keep custom cut steel flanges in oil bath bags for the same reason.

 

[Elasinthe]

I purchased a G5200H several weeks ago.... It is not as nice as yours. These things were (and are) highly sought-after for their reliability and ruggedness.

Some things to know:
*) Keep the steering-gears lubed. Especially the grease-nipple for the pivot of the large gear-sector. This may be the very poorest designed component of the entire tractor. It was so bad that Kubota actually RE-designed using bearings part way through production. (Your model# and the below parts-list will tell you which you have)

*) Keep the removable screen infront of radiator clean!! Lest the engine will overheat. Pull it out and use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing.

*) The mower-deck tends to RUST-OUT much faster than any other brands of that vintage. (Same as Japanese cars of that vintage) Replacement mower-decks are VERY hard to find. Use compressed-air to remove grass-clippings after every mowing. (DO NOT USE WATER HOSE!) Consider using spray-bottle with used oil to coat underneath during winter-storage. Treat that mower-deck as it it was made out of gold. (Replacing it costs about the same pound-for-pound)

*) You said you ordered a fan-belt. I would recommend NOT replacing unless you need to. You have to disassemble the driveshaft to the hydro unit to replace it.

*) The twin-belts off the front of the engine are WAYYY too expensive from Kubota (over $100) These are METRIC LENGTH belts (between 32 inch and 33 inch)
I ordered my belts from ==> http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/Kubota 66021-25080--kubota-66021-25080-v-belt-set-of-2.html

*) After sitting that long, consider drain/flush/refill of coolant. NEVER mix tapwater with antifreeze. ONLY use distilled water. (or premixed antifreeze)

--------------------------
Some URLs to bookmark:
General lube info
https://www.kubota.com/service/LubricantMaintenance.aspx

Often used parts lookup
http://www.kubota.com/part/PartsLookup.aspx

Online, dynamic, parts lists
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx

I just noticed your edit. I'll take into consideration the belt issues. And coolant was on the top of the list, along with transmission and engine oil. I've already got a couple gallons of distilled on hand. I've attempted to attach a photo of the belt as it is now.

 

[100 td]

What about some more pics, from the little bit one can see, it does look mint!

 

[100 td]

And if it's been sitting 10 years, I'd be replacing the radiator and water return hoses

 

[D2Cat]

I'd drain the old fuel out of the tank, then top it off with new fuel. I think you can remove the line at the fuel filter and catch it in a container.

Give the fuel an overdose of fuel additive (for the injectors) like Stanadyne.

 

[BruceP]

I just noticed your edit. I'll take into consideration the belt issues. And coolant was on the top of the list, along with transmission and engine oil. I've already got a couple gallons of distilled on hand. I've attempted to attach a photo of the belt as it is now.

I would run that belt for now. As long as the top of the belt stands ABOVE the sheaves, (and is not physically falling apart) it is fine for now. If a belt sits BELOW the top of the sheeves, it is worn-out and no amount of tightening will keep it from slipping.

For me, I have put together 2 to-do lists for my 'new' G5200.
1) Things I should do NOW.
2) Things I can do over the winter.

Replacing that fanbelt would be on my 'winter' list since it entails dismantling the PTO shaft to the hydro.

You should be checking the engine-temperature every so often while running anyway.... if fanbelt breaks, you will know it. (and already have the spare)

BTW: The biggest item on my 'winter' list is to remove the mowing deck, grind down to bare metal and have a fabricator patch the rust-holes. Then, I will repaint 'Old Kubota Orange' (Kubota changed the shade of their Orange in the 1990s and the G series tractors have the 'old' color)

The dual PTO belts take about 20 minutes to replace so they will be done soon. (One of them is nearly ripped in half)

 

[steveInMaryland]

No kidding!? I did not know that. I'll get a few to have on hand and will swap it out once I get it here. He put some sort of fuel stabilizer in there and it had about 1/2" of fuel at the bottom, if that. I will run the full fresh tank through it this weekend and refresh again.

Are there any recommended oil or fuel additives? I plan to use what I use in the truck.

Elasinthe, no kidding, it can also grow in the oil and hydraulic fluid.

I am assuming Annapolis is Maryland, I am not that far away. I have several ounces of a new bottle of bacticide left over from killing bacteria in my hydraulic fluid if your interested (free).

The east coast is really humid and if you don't run these machines it can happen, ask the boaters near you. Big problem.

Anyway, awesome machine, enjoy it.

Steve

 

[RCW]

Service stuff is a hot topic here - but the general consensus is engine oil is your choice, but get a good one.

I am not familiar with your model, but hydraulic fluid "we" often stay with Kubota branded products suited to your machine, unless it's an older gear driven model. For many HST tractors - Common are UDT and SUDT - SUDT is synthetic and newer version. SUDT is pricey, but REAL good stuff in my book, with a 200 or 400 hour change interval.

For filters, I think we almost all agree stick with Kubota branded filters.

Just suggestions, and best of luck with your tractor!!

 

[Elasinthe]

Update: I got it here a couple days ago and mowed the 1/2 acre yard with ease. The back yard had been neglected and parts were a few feet high. This mower ate through it with ease. Not even slowing the engine rpms a bit, very awesome and exciting!

And if it's been sitting 10 years, I'd be replacing the radiator and water return hoses

I'll look into the radiator and hoses this winter. The hoses seem alright on the outside but who knows on the inside.

I'd drain the old fuel out of the tank, then top it off with new fuel. I think you can remove the line at the fuel filter and catch it in a container.

Give the fuel an overdose of fuel additive (for the injectors) like Stanadyne.

I used some HotShots Secret that I use on my Cummins. The tank had less than 1/2" of fuel left in it which didn't seem to affect anything, and it's well diluted now. I'll continue to use the HotShots or Stanadyne equivalent additive.

I would run that belt for now. As long as the top of the belt stands ABOVE the sheaves, (and is not physically falling apart) it is fine for now. If a belt sits BELOW the top of the sheeves, it is worn-out and no amount of tightening will keep it from slipping.

For me, I have put together 2 to-do lists for my 'new' G5200.
1) Things I should do NOW.
2) Things I can do over the winter.

Replacing that fanbelt would be on my 'winter' list since it entails dismantling the PTO shaft to the hydro.

You should be checking the engine-temperature every so often while running anyway.... if fanbelt breaks, you will know it. (and already have the spare)

BTW: The biggest item on my 'winter' list is to remove the mowing deck, grind down to bare metal and have a fabricator patch the rust-holes. Then, I will repaint 'Old Kubota Orange' (Kubota changed the shade of their Orange in the 1990s and the G series tractors have the 'old' color)

The dual PTO belts take about 20 minutes to replace so they will be done soon. (One of them is nearly ripped in half)

Good advice about the belt. The new fan belt came in the other day so maybe I'll put that on my winter list. I'll look into the PTO belts too. As far as the deck goes, it seems in really good shape but I'll know better when I take it off this winter. Depending, I might grind it down and apply something like a powder coat or something durable and protective.

Elasinthe, no kidding, it can also grow in the oil and hydraulic fluid.

I am assuming Annapolis is Maryland, I am not that far away. I have several ounces of a new bottle of bacticide left over from killing bacteria in my hydraulic fluid if your interested (free).

The east coast is really humid and if you don't run these machines it can happen, ask the boaters near you. Big problem.

Anyway, awesome machine, enjoy it.

Steve

Thanks, Steve, and yes, Annapolis Maryland. That's a great thing about forum communities, sharing and everyone enjoying the passion of the topic. I have an old diesel boat (Cape Dory 30) and never had any problems with that, but never really talked to anyone about the fueling and bacteria issues. That thing has always just up and gone, but it's an old reliable Volvo Penta. Good to keep in mind though for a vehicle I won't probably use as often.

Service stuff is a hot topic here - but the general consensus is engine oil is your choice, but get a good one.

I am not familiar with your model, but hydraulic fluid "we" often stay with Kubota branded products suited to your machine, unless it's an older gear driven model. For many HST tractors - Common are UDT and SUDT - SUDT is synthetic and newer version. SUDT is pricey, but REAL good stuff in my book, with a 200 or 400 hour change interval.

For filters, I think we almost all agree stick with Kubota branded filters.

Just suggestions, and best of luck with your tractor!!

I acquired the manuals from my dad so I'll be reading through them and see what they call for. I always use recommended brands unless there's a proven superior product (see Mopar's Cummins fuel filter).

I took some pics this evening. I parked it inside my trailer since the shop is full of bikes that I'm getting rid of. Stay tuned for the next post!

 

[Elasinthe]

Here are some more pics of the engine and the body. There is a small dent on the top front edge of the engine cover/hood. Also a tear on the seat, but otherwise all looks good!

 

[Elasinthe]

Here you can kind of see under the deck, doesn't look at all rusting but it seems I didn't get it as clean this week as I thought, hard to see under there. I need to do a good wipe down of the whole thing, dust from 10 years of sitting in a garage. Otherwise, she's all there and clean!