Bigfoot and Oil Changing

Caintucky

New member
I tried to change the oil in my B8200 last night and much like Sasquatch I have never seen this before either. From a cold start, I let my tractor idle for about 10 minutes to warm up the engine. Removed the drain plug and absolutely nothing came out, yet the dipstick had me at 1/2 full. I recently bought this deisel tractor and this is the first time I've attempted to change the oil. Any suggestions on what I may be doing wrong or could it be that I need to further warm up the engine.
 

SpudHauler

New member

Equipment
RTV 1100 CW-A
Sep 8, 2010
97
0
0
Canada
Just did a search for "B8200 Oil Change" and found about 10 posts. You should try it. No better way to find the benefits of a forum than to do it yourself.
 

ValveJob

New member

Equipment
L3400DT Loader Boxblade
Feb 6, 2010
38
1
0
La Fayette, GA
I tried to change the oil in my B8200 last night ...Removed the drain plug and absolutely nothing came out,....
I saw this when I was 15 working in a gas station for $1 an hour (a long time ago). The oil pan on this car was so full of sludge that nothing came out. At the time the guy just wanted the oil changed for a price of an oil change and to get going. I worked a screw driver around inside the pan to break it up as best I could. Then I poured some mineral spirits down the oil filler spout to clean it out. Then I poured some oil down to rinse that out. He didn't have much room for any oil when he came in. I don't think a quart came out. He didn't have a whole lot in there when he left.

I think I'd first try to work something around in there from the drain plug and try to spray something like diesel up in there somehow to rinse it out.

I'd pull the pan if at all possible and really clean it. I'd be suspicious of what it lookes like under the valve cover also. I'd pull that too.

Keep us posted. I'd like to know if sludge is what caused this and why (water?).

Tom
 

pat331

New member

Equipment
L35, mower, bushhog, cement mixer, grader, boxblade, forks, posthole digger
Mar 31, 2009
298
3
0
Ft. Worth, TX
I agree with Valvejob. If you do use diesel or mineral sprits to "clean it out", don't run the engine too long or you could damage it. I had a similar experience on an old JD 2 cylinder I'm trying to restore. I removed the plug to change the gear oil in the transmission/rear end and nothing came out. Ran a screwdriver up it and all kinds of sludge and water came out. It took me a while to get it clean. Good Luck and keep us posted.
 

SpudHauler

New member

Equipment
RTV 1100 CW-A
Sep 8, 2010
97
0
0
Canada
OOPS

I thought you might have taken out the wrong bolt.

Had a drag racer who's car was the same way. Remove oil pan to change oil because of too much sludge.

Running and engine with anything but oil is always dangerous. Go to your local oil supplier Wallmart Canadian Tire what ever and buy the cheapest oil and filter you can find. Use it for the flush then replace with new filter and the proper oil.

Should remove the oil pan and valve cover and clean both before the flush. Be surprised how much will be in the valve cover.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Just a thought. Did you remove the drain plug for the clutch housing instead of the engine drain plug? You didn't say if your tractor has a loader or not but I know that the drain plug on my B 7100 was behind the frame on the loader and completely hidden. The clutch drain could be easily seen and right in the open.
 

ValveJob

New member

Equipment
L3400DT Loader Boxblade
Feb 6, 2010
38
1
0
La Fayette, GA
You can fill the crankcase with mineral spirits, pull the cylinder head decompression lever and just wind that engine over for a few minutes to really clean the pan, sump screen, oil galleys, upper cylinder head passages etc.

While the oil pump moving the cleaning fluid around there is no risk of 'firing' the engine up since the decomp is pulled.

You'd be amazed at the crap that comes out of the engine using this method, and how nice and fresh the oil stays after you do an internal engine flush.
Brilliant!
I'll remember that technique.
Thanks for sharing that,

ValveJob
 

SpudHauler

New member

Equipment
RTV 1100 CW-A
Sep 8, 2010
97
0
0
Canada
Great stuff Vic,

Do most tractors have a decompress lever? And does that open a valve for all cylinders or just one or two?

Not a tractor guy but have used and seen decompression levers on other gas engines. Usually just for one cylinder, but can see the reason for more on a diesel.
 

Rust Addict

New member

Equipment
B6000E
Jan 2, 2010
83
0
0
Sidney, Maine, USA
Man can you imagine drain plug is plugged solid. Wonder what the oil filter is doing? My bet is that the old filter has blown out or been in bypass for years!

Decompress any engine by removing the spark or glow plugs. This will unload the starter. Remember NOT to overheat the starter motor when flushing as stated in this post. Check the starter temperature by hand after you have run it for more than a minute or two. When it feels hot, let it cool off, the starter motor will thank you.

AND for those with a tow vehical and help, drag that gunked up engine around in top gear with fuel and key shut off. A quart of kerosene or diesel down the hole and a couple laps around the barnyard should bust the gunk down enough to get it to drain out.

Before you change the oil and call it good, drain the OLD filter and reinstall. Rinse the engine at lease once with a low buck light weight engine oil and partial fuel oil mix. If the rinse oil still looks like crude oil, repeat. Last but not least, a New oil filter and correct weight and amount of oil for the engine.
 
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SpudHauler

New member

Equipment
RTV 1100 CW-A
Sep 8, 2010
97
0
0
Canada
I think it would be better to just use good oil that doesn't sludge in the first place.
Not sure what you mean BullDog.
But, all oil will sludge if it is not changed often enough, no matter how good it is.
Problem here, I think, is it was never change in the first place, by the previous owner.