G1900 ignition/electrical problem

coss

New member
Apr 27, 2013
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Albany, NY
When I bought my G1900 two years ago, the previous owner said it did not shut off with the key, and you had to pull back the orange lever on the left side of the engine to get it to stop running. He also said it went through batteries faster than it should.

Since then, I have frequently had to jump start it with a battery charger. However, it now will not start at all.

I had the battery tested, and it is fine.

Before I take it to the expensive local dealer, what would your suggestions be for what is wrong with my tractor, and how to fix it?
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,205
1,889
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Mid, South, USA
When I bought my G1900 two years ago, the previous owner said it did not shut off with the key, and you had to pull back the orange lever on the left side of the engine to get it to stop running. He also said it went through batteries faster than it should.

Since then, I have frequently had to jump start it with a battery charger. However, it now will not start at all.

I had the battery tested, and it is fine.

Before I take it to the expensive local dealer, what would your suggestions be for what is wrong with my tractor, and how to fix it?
Start off by testing the fuses, not pulling them out and eyeballing them, actually testing them...ohm meter or test light works well. There's also a fuse-able link (or slow-blow fuse on the newer models) over by the starter that can give fits sometimes.

You're going to have to do some detective work. The G1800, 1900, and G2000 were quite known for electrical system issues. Most of the time it's connection problems in the harness or the harness connectors. My suggestion, if you've got some DC electricity knowledge, and a test light, test the ignition switch first...power in, power out, ground, etc. Then follow your wires down to the connector, test both sides of the connector. Then follow it on down to the next connector and do the same thing. Eventually you'll find your problem if it's a harness problem.

Could also be a safety switch. PTO switches were common to die, as were brake switches. On mine, I have had to replace both multiple times over the years. Last time, the part number for the brake switch was different. Switch itself looked more or less the same, and the difference in the number makes me want to say that it's been updated. But it might just be a different color contact inside, who knows (they rarely say what they change).

AND...I've also seen a controller or two die. Those have also been updated with new numbers, the new number is better I'm told. And again if you're a DIY'er, if the controller's dead, it's possible to fix it. Saw an article on the 'net a while back with reference to the "combination box" (controller) repair.

That said, the controller is expensive to replace. On an aging mower, if you had to pay a shop to do it at, say, $90/hr, electrical diagnosis gets expensive quick and the final billing can sometimes exceed the value of the machine. In cases like that, you have to really like it to pour money into it. I absolutely love mine. Only thing I'd have different would be maybe a good clean ZD21F.
 
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