L345 temp gauge issue

[roger23]

I cannot figure out how to make a new thread! I am basically a total novice at doing mechanics, had a 'boyfriend' helping me to rebuild our Kubota L345 tractor and it is all working well now (with new engine block and lots of other new bits). Unfortunately 'boyfriend' is no longer on the scene and the temperature gauge is still not working at all. It just stays in one position. I have put in a new thermostat and then tried to repair wires to the gauge that were a bit shredded. I find it very difficult to get under the dash to repair wires further if need be and wondering if I should just buy a new one? If so, which one do I get and is there an easier way to install it. I don't have a wiring diagram (nor would I really know how to read one!).

I live on a community and the last person to drive the tractor before the repairs thought that the gauge was working before the whole thing over heated but he is not absolutely sure.

Any suggestions? If so, please suggest as if to a total newby. Thanks!

 

[torch]

Re: What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

I live on a community and the last person to drive the tractor before the repairs thought that the gauge was working before the whole thing over heated but he is not absolutely sure.

Any suggestions? If so, please suggest as if to a total newby. Thanks!

To start a new thread, enter a forum (eg: "Service, Repair & Maintenance" and click on the "New Thread" icon.

Most temperature gauges measure the resistance of a sensor on the engine block. The resistance will change with temperature (usually resistance drops as temperature climbs).

Most temperature lights are activated by a switch on the engine block in place of a sensor. The resistance will not change until the engine overheats (usually resistance is infinite until it overheats, at which time resistance drops to near 0).

1. Do you have and know how to use an ohmmeter? If so, you could measure the resistance of the sensor/switch and see if it changes as the engine warms up.

2. Was the replacement block new or used?

3. If used, did you use whatever sensor/switch came with the block or swap in your old one?

4. If you used a sensor/switch that came with a used block, do you still have your old block and sensor?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Quick easy check, turn the key to on, but not running, the temp sending unit is located on the right rear of the head, remove the wire to the sending unit and touch the wire to the metal ( called grounding) on the head, look at the gauge.
If it's gone up, usually all the way, the gauge and wiring are good, it's the temp sending unit is bad.
If the gauge still does not move then look at the color of the wire go to the back of the gauge and find that wire, use a jumper wire and ground that terminal on the gauge, if the gauge goes up then it's got a break in the wiring, if not then you will need a test light and check for power going to the gauge.

 

[roger23]

Thank you for your replies.

I DO see the 'new thread' icon today. Was not showing last night on laptop.

Yes, i can use ohmmeter and will do so.

Replacement block was new and I am using the old sensor! Is that an issue?

The instructions from North Idaho Wolfman are very clear and I will go try that out today.

I will let you know later if I have had any success.

I had a real issue trying to get access to the gauge from under the dash. Couldn't lift it up very well what with the wires all attached etc but I will investigate further whether I can remove it better.

Thanks heaps.

 

[rbargeron]

New block should work with old sensor (go easy on the thread sealant so it doesn't insulate the ground). Also check that the coolant level is up near the radiator cap. If it's not high enough to wet the sensor it can make the gauge goofy. With the four dash screws removed, the dash will lift up a little, limited by the hour meter's mechanical drive cable. Undo the threaded collar that holds it into the bottom of the tachometer and the dash will go up further. Reattach the cable later after the temp gauge is sorted out. Wiring diagrams for L345 and L355 attached. (nearly identical - L355 reads better ) The wiring gets really dusty in there and hard to identify colors & stripes. You'll solve it. Take care, Dick B

 

[Kubotalseries]

wondering where dis you buy the new.block for your l345