PICS of Kubota Engine and (hopefully) rebuild
- Thread starter Delmar
- Start date
Took advantage of having the engine out and stripped it down a bit further, cleaned the machine, flushed radiator, and fixed a sticky brake pedal. I'm guessing that might be the only time the undercarriage has ever been cleaned. Used a brush to clean the hydro sync fins.
I bought this machine as a "spare" parts mower, but now I'm excited to restore it. I have no idea, though, what I'll do with another mower. (I don't understand it but my wife is far less enthusiastic about the new addition.)
Gave it and it's big brother a bath.
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I bought this machine as a "spare" parts mower, but now I'm excited to restore it. I have no idea, though, what I'll do with another mower. (I don't understand it but my wife is far less enthusiastic about the new addition.)
Gave it and it's big brother a bath.
as mentioned, the smaller the diesel engine, the more sensitive it is to compression-and more specifically compression leaks.
A big piston with a long stroke still has to make a lot of cylinder pressure to fire the fuel, but it does so a LOT easier because of the size. It will have a lot more air in the cylinder to compress and naturally it will compress it more (which makes it hot).
The little diesel you have, same as mine, it doesn't take much to make one stop running. Not much at all. They are great engines but they are not bulletproof. Overheat it a couple times and it's a guaranteed overhaul. Have done many over the years. It's been my experience that they get hard to start and run weak at less than 350 psi. I like to see 400+ at the minimum, closer to 500 is better. I think the manual says 360 to 480 psi for a specification.
You got a project, but I love the G series diesels and wouldn't mind picking up another one. Or two.
A big piston with a long stroke still has to make a lot of cylinder pressure to fire the fuel, but it does so a LOT easier because of the size. It will have a lot more air in the cylinder to compress and naturally it will compress it more (which makes it hot).
The little diesel you have, same as mine, it doesn't take much to make one stop running. Not much at all. They are great engines but they are not bulletproof. Overheat it a couple times and it's a guaranteed overhaul. Have done many over the years. It's been my experience that they get hard to start and run weak at less than 350 psi. I like to see 400+ at the minimum, closer to 500 is better. I think the manual says 360 to 480 psi for a specification.
You got a project, but I love the G series diesels and wouldn't mind picking up another one. Or two.
Heard back from machine shop today. Cracked pistons due, he thinks, to someone using ether. He also said the valves need to be replaced.
Cylinders are fine after a light hone.
Now I have a conundrum. Buy the rebuild kit for $530 + new valves for around $75 + machine shop fee of $200 = $800+... or, keep it (as originally intended) as a donor machine for my other G1900? I only paid $350 for the machine so it seems a little silly to put $800 into it without a real plan for using it. (I'm rehearsing in my head how the conversation would go with my wife and it doesn't sound pleasant.)
But...this is the first time I've ever torn an engine down and I'm really interested to see if I can bring it back to life! The machine is in pretty good condition overall and I could probably sell it and get my money back out of it.
Cylinders are fine after a light hone.
Now I have a conundrum. Buy the rebuild kit for $530 + new valves for around $75 + machine shop fee of $200 = $800+... or, keep it (as originally intended) as a donor machine for my other G1900? I only paid $350 for the machine so it seems a little silly to put $800 into it without a real plan for using it. (I'm rehearsing in my head how the conversation would go with my wife and it doesn't sound pleasant.)
But...this is the first time I've ever torn an engine down and I'm really interested to see if I can bring it back to life! The machine is in pretty good condition overall and I could probably sell it and get my money back out of it.
Brother, put the 800 in it and flip it. Use the money you make to buy 3PH implements. This experience you're getting for free is very valuable, as you'll be able to tackle more jobs with confidence.
Easy to be brave when telling someone else to man-up and face their wife. Actually, now's the time to strike. She just bought a 9mm Glock and a bunch of furniture and decorations (i know, doesn't sound like things that would normally be on the same shopping list). $$$
I've decided to go ahead and repair the engine. I'll be as cost-conscious as possible while trying to do a quality job. Already ordered a new head gasket.
The machine shop guy was right about the pistons. Check out the cracks!
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All 3 cylinders were about the same. The area between the rings was cracked badly.
Can't believe how quickly rust appears. The block has sat exposed for less than a week and it's already rusty. Assuming it takes another week to get parts and get it assembled, should I sand off the rust and apply fluid film or something like that? Rust is already creeping into the cylinders.
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Machine shop said head, block, and camshaft, were all good. Cylinders were fine after a light hone. He said to use normal sized rings and pistons.
By the way, machine shop guy said he was reasonably certain piston cracking was due to someone using ether to start the machine. I know "don't use ether - ever!" is a mantra on this forum; perhaps a visual of why it's a bad idea will be helpful.
Actually, now's the time to strike. She just bought a 9mm Glock and a bunch of furniture and decorations (i know, doesn't sound like things that would normally be on the same shopping list). $$$ I've decided to go ahead and repair the engine. I'll be as cost-conscious as possible while trying to do a quality job. Already ordered a new head gasket.
The machine shop guy was right about the pistons. Check out the cracks!
All 3 cylinders were about the same. The area between the rings was cracked badly.
Can't believe how quickly rust appears. The block has sat exposed for less than a week and it's already rusty. Assuming it takes another week to get parts and get it assembled, should I sand off the rust and apply fluid film or something like that? Rust is already creeping into the cylinders.
Machine shop said head, block, and camshaft, were all good. Cylinders were fine after a light hone. He said to use normal sized rings and pistons.
By the way, machine shop guy said he was reasonably certain piston cracking was due to someone using ether to start the machine. I know "don't use ether - ever!" is a mantra on this forum; perhaps a visual of why it's a bad idea will be helpful.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Thanks, NIW. I appreciate the tip.
Started putting the engine back together this evening. Waiting on head gasket and pistons, but put the valve train back in.
I cleaned the valves using NIW's tip: Scotch Bright with oil on it. Inserted the valve stem in my drill (with a piece of vacuum hose protecting it in the drill) and spun the valve holding the oily Scotch Bright against the turning valve.
I then did a DIY valve grinding job. Used valve grinding compound ($5 at auto parts store) and my drill. Inserted valve with compound on it; attached a 2" piece of vacuum hose and clamped it with a small band clamp; and used a small post that clamped into my drill and then inserted very snugly into the other end of the vacuum hose. Gave each valve and seat a good grinding. I was really pleased with how they turned out. Never done it before so I don't have much context for judging, but they cleaned up very nice, I think.
Appreciate the help and support. Hopefully, I'll get head gasket and pistons in mail before the weekend and make more progress.
20160720_191610 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr
20160720_191845 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr
20160720_194711 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr
Started putting the engine back together this evening. Waiting on head gasket and pistons, but put the valve train back in.
I cleaned the valves using NIW's tip: Scotch Bright with oil on it. Inserted the valve stem in my drill (with a piece of vacuum hose protecting it in the drill) and spun the valve holding the oily Scotch Bright against the turning valve.
I then did a DIY valve grinding job. Used valve grinding compound ($5 at auto parts store) and my drill. Inserted valve with compound on it; attached a 2" piece of vacuum hose and clamped it with a small band clamp; and used a small post that clamped into my drill and then inserted very snugly into the other end of the vacuum hose. Gave each valve and seat a good grinding. I was really pleased with how they turned out. Never done it before so I don't have much context for judging, but they cleaned up very nice, I think.
Appreciate the help and support. Hopefully, I'll get head gasket and pistons in mail before the weekend and make more progress.
20160720_191610 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr20160720_191845 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr20160720_194711 by Jeff Metcalf, on FlickrSuccess! Got the machine assembled again and it fired right up! Between having a brother who is a good mechanic and the kindness of OTT folks willing to share their knowledge, I was able to bring the tractor back to life.
Cleaned up into a nice garden tractor.
[/url]20160729_142529 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20160729_142721 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr[/IMG]
Starts easy. A puff of smoke and it runs nice and smooth. Here's a video.
[/url]20160729_142810 by Jeff Metcalf, on Flickr[/IMG]
Now, what to do with another machine almost identical to the one I have. ?? I guess I'll sell it, but now I've gone and gotten attached to it!
I really do appreciate the help and encouragement. Thank you all.
Cleaned up into a nice garden tractor.
Starts easy. A puff of smoke and it runs nice and smooth. Here's a video.
Now, what to do with another machine almost identical to the one I have. ?? I guess I'll sell it, but now I've gone and gotten attached to it!
I really do appreciate the help and encouragement. Thank you all.
CountryBumkin
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Good job.
In the photo it looks your missing the tensioning bolt in that upper radiator hose clamp. After a rebuild and the first run, and good "going over" of the engine is always a good idea to recheck fasteners, look for leaks. etc.
In the photo it looks your missing the tensioning bolt in that upper radiator hose clamp. After a rebuild and the first run, and good "going over" of the engine is always a good idea to recheck fasteners, look for leaks. etc.
That's a good eye CountryBumkin. Observations like that don't come naturally!
And my question is .... what's wrong with having more then one machine?
And my question is .... what's wrong with having more then one machine?
Thanks for the replies. Seeing as how I live in a subdivision on a 1 acre lot, it's kind of hard to justify 2 G1900s and a BX.
Thanks for catching the missing air intake bolt. I had it loose because I kept taking the hose and air filter off several times and forgot to tighten it back. It's somewhere in my yard now.
This project has been very interesting. I can't imagine trying something like that without folks like North Idaho Wolfman, johnnyFbomb, and D2CAT, etc. willing to be online tutors. That, and the incredible amount of archival material on OTT and other sites.
I mowed with the rebuilt machine yesterday and it performed well. Very hot and humid day and it ran cool all day. I mowed my lawn, the entrance to the subdivision, the community pool area (1 acre or so) - pretty much anywhere I could find that needed grass cut! Got in 2.5 hours or so and was really pleased with the mower.
A couple of lessons learned:
1) The o-ring for the oil pipe that should be installed with the head gasket is an odd size, 6.4mm (id)/11mm (od)/3.5mm (width). Rather than drive 1.5 hours to a full service Kubota dealer, I found one in an o-ring assortment from an auto parts store. I first--unknowingly--used a regular, thin, o-ring and oil leaked from the head.
2) If I take the engine out again, I will remove the steering wheel frame and remove the engine and radiator together. Trying to "work the engine" under and around the radiator is a pain. 15 minutes and I could have had free access by removing the steering wheel and frame.
3) Taking pictures and notes will help when time for reassembly! I was surprised at how many times I referred to pictures and notes, even when I thought I pretty well knew what was what.
Thanks again, OTT friends.
Thanks for catching the missing air intake bolt. I had it loose because I kept taking the hose and air filter off several times and forgot to tighten it back. It's somewhere in my yard now.
This project has been very interesting. I can't imagine trying something like that without folks like North Idaho Wolfman, johnnyFbomb, and D2CAT, etc. willing to be online tutors. That, and the incredible amount of archival material on OTT and other sites.
I mowed with the rebuilt machine yesterday and it performed well. Very hot and humid day and it ran cool all day. I mowed my lawn, the entrance to the subdivision, the community pool area (1 acre or so) - pretty much anywhere I could find that needed grass cut! Got in 2.5 hours or so and was really pleased with the mower.
A couple of lessons learned:
1) The o-ring for the oil pipe that should be installed with the head gasket is an odd size, 6.4mm (id)/11mm (od)/3.5mm (width). Rather than drive 1.5 hours to a full service Kubota dealer, I found one in an o-ring assortment from an auto parts store. I first--unknowingly--used a regular, thin, o-ring and oil leaked from the head.
2) If I take the engine out again, I will remove the steering wheel frame and remove the engine and radiator together. Trying to "work the engine" under and around the radiator is a pain. 15 minutes and I could have had free access by removing the steering wheel and frame.
3) Taking pictures and notes will help when time for reassembly! I was surprised at how many times I referred to pictures and notes, even when I thought I pretty well knew what was what.
Thanks again, OTT friends.