Brake shoes

[Rezzey]

Hi guys doing my first and long overdue service on my b1600dt

Ordered the correct filters from ebay (air fuel and engine oil filters)

Thought id get the rear brakes working properly (they do eventually pull the tractor up if you stomp your whole weight onto the pedal and more. Thought id take off the shoe cover? either side of the rear diff to see what parts look like and see if shoes is the issue... but before i do that is there something i should take note of before i pop the covers off (i can see grey gasket goop instead of a normal gasket around each?). Are they filled with fluid?

Being a grey im hoping the shoes have part number stamps on them so i can locate the same type unless some one knows them already

Anyway.... enough of the shoes...

Oils aint oils so what type do you fellas use on these models for the engine?

Cheers big ears

 

[rentthis]

I use 30w Shell rotella. Good luck matching up the brake shoes.

 

[D2Cat]

Maybe you can take the brake shoes to a shop that works on truck brakes to have them reline what you already have.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Maybe you can take the brake shoes to a shop that works on truck brakes to have them reline what you already have.

It's worth a shot - but I wouldn't' get my hopes up. I doubt any truck shop will have any linings (or even a way to order based on dimensions) with the correct curvature, width, length, COF, and rivet hole-pattern to fit anything other than standard over-the-road trucks.

 

[D2Cat]

I was thinking of Inland Truck Parts & Service is who I had reline shoes on a crawler.

At any rate, search for a relining service.

 

[kubotasam]

I relined some shoes for a b7100. Bought lining material for a motorcycle from ebay and glued it to the metal part of the shoe with epoxy. Seems to work fine.

 

[Rezzey]

Finaly got the time to start servicing. Took wheels off and brake covers to see the shoes. They seemed fine?? A bit of pitting on the drum but still a fair amount of life left in them shoes. I checked how far they can open and it seems i just needed to adjust the rods to take up the slack. Problem solved! (Until i test it after the oils done anyway)

Coolant question for you. I popped the radiator cap and it seems that there just water in there and same in overflow resivour. Just clear water

I do have a full jug of car Nullon car coolant sitting here so am i safe to flush everything and put 50/50 coolant and distilled water in instead?

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[Tooljunkie]

I dont see an issue using long life coolant, it looks like its universal type, works in many different applications. My question is, why go 50% when you need little or no freeze protection?

50% mixture is typical for the climate here where it reaches -40 or below.

All you are after is corrosion protection and reducing boil over. Water is best for heat transfer, so keep your ratio more to the water part.
Distilled water is good,if you can find de-mineralized water is even better.

I buy coolant in 4L jugs,6 at a time. Celcius universal coolant.

 

[Rezzey]

Well.....damn.... not what I was hoping the trans hydraulic strainer was to look like

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[Rezzey]

Alot of that seemed to be rtv sealant and a bit of sparkly metal bits im guessing from gear grinds from previous owners. Whats worse was the fluid was as thick as honey and brown... where the new udt i put in was clear and ran like vodka

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[Rezzey]

These are the shoes if anyone needs to reference to it for their b1600 in the future. Would you say they have a 1/3+ of life left in them?

and pitted drums. I think a bit of water must haven gotten down a little breather hole in the top at some stage to do this to it. Ill get some pipe to go over the nipple so when i wash it water doesnt keep going straight down it.

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[D2Cat]

Rezzey, looks to me like they're new! They just been in storage on your tractor. No one ever applied the brakes!

Clean the drums real good. Remove all the rust "humps", adjust your linkage, lube the linkage some, and use them.

Probably last another 30 years or so. Just remember to release the brake lock before moving the tractor. That will cause excessive wear quickly.

 

[CountryBumkin]

If you have a pneumatic right-angle die grinder (and you should), these scotch-brite abrasive pads will clean up the drum nicely.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...te-Surface-Conditioning-Discs?N=7581642&rt=r3

 

[Rezzey]

Cheers guys good tips there. Think ill diy a blinding brake light indicator for the dash cos yes i have in the past left the foot lock brake on for a while (not that it was working anyway lol)

Thought id do all the rest of the fluids today.

For future reference for myself the b8200 fluid specs are the same for the b1600 since there is no info on it.

The steering box had me super puzzled where to fill and drain as when i opend the fill point tonnes of oil spewed out... and it was the highest point. Like half a cup.

Turns out this

Water must have gotten down the column in its past and ejected all the oil out when i cracked it. I sucked as much water i could out and used air blower to try get the last dregs out. Real stupid design not having a lower drain plug for it. Filled it to the top with new oil and made a rubber boot for the top of the steering column, packed with marine grease to prevent future ingress.

Bahhh this service has now gotten me 2 and a half days of my life.

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[Rezzey]

Well shes all degreased, all fluids changed and joints all greased up. Runs harder than ever. It now revs up and possibly past the 3000rpm marker where i think its meant to be WOT at 2600. So i adjusted the gov screw to bring it back down to 2600. Wonder what made it so free?
One thing i noticed that didnt have a grease nipple was the uni joints up in the middle of the under neath of the tractor that i think may be the the 4wd drive shaft. How are they meant to be lubricated? I can see one has a big boot on it but the other end is slightly open to elements inside the case. Should i spray it with chain lube or something?

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