Pulling a Dent?

[toxcrusadr]

The guy I bought my L4600 from must have swung around into a solid object with his Land Pride rotary mower because it has a big dent in the rounded part.

I'm fairly handy with tools but I've never pulled a dent, and this is pretty thick metal. How would you go about this?

The mower works fine, so it must not be pushed in far enough to hit the rotating blade, but it would be nice to fix it. Darn thing is brand new looking otherwise.

 

[skeets]

Flip it over and put a heany piece of wood or a chunck of steel behind it on the out side and take a hammer and start to hammer on the inside of the dent, starting from the out side edges in toward the center, it might take a bit but you could hammer it out in short order.. or just heat it and beat the snot out of it with reckless abandonment

 

[toxcrusadr]

The only part that concerns me is 'flip it over'. I hope I don't die.

I do have several sizes of hammers though.

 

[TripleR]

My brother recently used the method described by Skeets on one of mine, we've done it over the years and it's a bit noisy, but works so far.

 

[coachgeo]

Hammer??? Don't you mean Sledge.... that's some stiff stuff. Had to tilt mine up and over with a boom pole on back of the tractor. Think I'd been better off leaning it against something actually. If you do that though make sure it is braced, tied and made sure not to fall from movement from blows of sledge.

Or maybe landpride and woods use different material? There's no way a hammer would do anything to my Woods underside inner surround. Certainly not to the outer housing.

 

[billrigsby]

This is what you need, oil bottle for scale only.

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Brush Hog 48" "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
Rhino 48" Rear Blade
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks
36" Sears Snow Blower (still to be mounted to the front PTO)

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[CaveCreekRay]

Just for giggles, I would try and save the inner paint and keep from dimpling the metal by using a piece of hardwood on the inner side. Hammer on that to see if you can get it coming around before resorting to hammering on metal.

A piece of an oak pallet would work, especially if you radiused it a bit with a belt sander. Watch out for nails: Most pallets today are recycled and full of nails.

Ray

 

[TripleR]

Hammer??? Don't you mean Sledge.... that's some stiff stuff. Had to tilt mine up and over with a boom pole on back of the tractor. Think I'd been better off leaning it against something actually. If you do that though make sure it is braced, tied and made sure not to fall from movement from blows of sledge.

Or maybe landpride and woods use different material? There's no way a hammer would do anything to my Woods underside inner surround. Certainly not to the outer housing.

Your Woods probably won't get bent like that, I've hit all kinds of stuff with our DS1260 and it just bounces off.

The sides of my LP RCR 2672 are 1/4 inch, but has gotten bent once, mostly just bounces off.

We have sledge hammers of various weights up to fifteen pounds.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Stand it up with offended edge on ground, set on 2x6or other wood type object. Wail on it with bfh. Make sure deck is well secured.

Fabricate a hook of sorts and use a chain and ratcheting load binder and pull it. Need to park against a tree and secure other end to something similar.

Get a porta-power and jack it out.

 

[toxcrusadr]

I actually made this dent worse over the weekend, brush hogging in a steep spot. I think it was riding very low (I had backed it right up to the edge of a creek bank, and the back wheel was actually over the edge). When I pulled out I must have turned, and pushed the mower sideways into a little rise in the ground. I bet that's how the previous owner did this in the first place.

I've got (possibly unrelated) issues with how the thing is riding on the 3-pt. I thought you were supposed to be able to lift the whole thing off the ground (rear wheel and all) but at max lift on the 3-pt the wheel is still rolling on the ground. If I have to drive a quarter mile through the woods and along the driveway to get to the spot I'm mowing, should I lift the whole thing off the ground? Or is that too hard on the 3-pt hitch? I might have the top link extended too far, methinks.

 

[Russell King]

The length of the top link is key to raising the rear off the ground. Also the position of the top link at the tractor end plays into it. Try to find the manual for the implement on the manufacturer site. Any manual on similar equipment would be better than nothing.

You will probably be better off/more stable with the implement on the wheel during transport to site


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[ThisIsNotaStep]

back to the dent thing .. I prefer to use a couple of C clamps, and squish stuff like that back into shape between a couple of blocks of wood. The paint and my hearing will remain intact.

 

[toxcrusadr]

The length of the top link is key to raising the rear off the ground. Also the position of the top link at the tractor end plays into it. Try to find the manual for the implement on the manufacturer site. Any manual on similar equipment would be better than nothing.

You will probably be better off/more stable with the implement on the wheel during transport to site


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Thanks Russell, good point. I have manuals for the tractor, loader and grader but apparently not for the mower. I'll look it up online and read the directions. What a novel concept.