I have a BX2200 with a little over 700 hours on it. Started overheating recently so I blew out the radiator screen and fins. That didn't help much. The coolant is fresh and topped off and the belt looks good, so I am wondering if it is the thermostat. Any suggestions? A previous post mentioned something about greasing the mower deck spindle - could that be a contributing factor?
Bx2200 running hot
- Thread starter Jeroir
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TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Check your thermostat, a stuck one blew the engine on our old JD2305.
You might also want to check your HST fan, deck spindles naturally should be regularly maintained, but shouldn't affect the engine temperature, beyond that I am at a loss.
You might also want to check your HST fan, deck spindles naturally should be regularly maintained, but shouldn't affect the engine temperature, beyond that I am at a loss.
Maybe your radiator isn't clean of grass, seeds and dirt packed in the fins. Blowing it out with air usually does not get the deep packed material.
Might be worth the time to remove the radiator and make sure it's clean all the way through, especially in the center...where it's hard to reach.
Might be worth the time to remove the radiator and make sure it's clean all the way through, especially in the center...where it's hard to reach.
It can take more than just some air to get the radiator clear. A gentle washing with water and some liquid soap will loosen up the crud that get in the radiator. Use a hose, not a pressure washer, let it soak in, followed by more rinsing and then some air. Avoid using Simple Green, which is otherwise great stuff but reportedly reacts chemically with aluminum.
It's hard to access the BX radiator, but be careful and it can be done. As others say, make sure the radiator is full and the thermostat is OK, since the fastest way to wreck a sweet little diesel engine is overheating it.
It's hard to access the BX radiator, but be careful and it can be done. As others say, make sure the radiator is full and the thermostat is OK, since the fastest way to wreck a sweet little diesel engine is overheating it.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
My brother made up some 2' extended wands with holes on the side to use our compressor to blow out all our radiators and condensers. You can buy them, but really cheap to make, our local shop foreman said that's what they use.
Now one was neglected for a long time and we had to take it out and give it a good washing, but if you keep up with it, air works great.
Now one was neglected for a long time and we had to take it out and give it a good washing, but if you keep up with it, air works great.
I had an overheating issue and managed to solve it by increasing the water to coolant mixture. Throughout the summer months I will almost 90% water (distilled) to coolant. Water sheds heat much faster.
Well, replacing the thermostat didn't make a difference. Only other guess I have is the radiator cap. When I opened the radiator while the engine was still pretty warm I didn't notice any pressure release, so maybe that's it...
Only do that mixture for the nicer months.
We had a stretch last winter where it was greater than -30 Celsius (-22 Fahrenheit) for 35 days in a row!
CountryBumkin
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BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
If you have "hard water" in your radiator it can raise temps. If this is the case you should drain and replace with anti-freeze and distilled or deionized water.
Also, a lot of the automotive performance guys like to add "Water Wetter" to their cooling systems. I haven't used this myself but the guys who do swear by it. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
Lastly, if there is a heavy build up of scale in your radiator and engine, you will need to clean and flush it out first or you will never get this solved. Scale is like an insulator in the block/head preventing heat transfer and it blocks the radiator passages.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
A bad cap can also cause overheating. If not mistaken, 13 psi is standard.
For every 1 PSI the boiling point is increased 2 degrees. SO at 13 psi you are raising the boiling point 26 degrees, if IT did not pressurize with a normal running of the engine then it could be part if not the entire problem.
You said you checked belt tension, you should not be able to spin fan without engine turning also
(engine is hard to spin - but will move with proper tension)Something else to do to, cheap and can be effective. Empty contents and fill with 1/2 gallon of good old white vinegar add water to full - run until hot, empty, and repeat with other 1/2 gallon of vinegar. After the second running empty again and flush entire system with 100% water, and repeat that again.
the vinegar being a mild acid will eat away at the scale and other build ups in the block and head and radiator. You will be surprised at what comes out after the first pass through.
On cooling - a 50/50 ratio is typical - because most "people" can do the math easily! A better cooling solution is closer to 70/30 water to EG, as meanjean pointed out - water does a MUCH better job of cooling than EG, however EG does lower and raise the freezing and boiling points far better than water.
With only 700 hours, I would suggest taking a much harder look for blockage in the radiator fins. Blowing air or water through the radiator doesn't always do the job. With those few hours and that problem, I remove the radiator and clean it if I can't get the right angle to see through it. Don't stop looking and cleaning until you can see light through the whole radiator.