Stock RPM set too high?

[NEPA Guy]

So after receiving my B2650 I noticed I could bring the RPM to 2650 at max throttle. Although not again after a few minutes. Then I can bring it say 2640, and it seems to vary over time slightly.

Is it coincidence that the RPM is 2650 like the name? When I had the 3350 it maxed out at roughly 2500.

Could this be detrimental to the lifetime/operation of the engine?

Any thoughts or comments appreciated. Thanks!

 

[CountryBumkin]

I think the rpm and model designation being the same is just coincidence.
The L2650 manual says that engine is rated for/at 2600 rpm. Your B series manual would have that info.

I read that these newer tractors run a higher rpm to improve exhaust emissions. My BX idles at 1500 rpm and maxes out at 3200 rpm.

 

[NEPA Guy]

I think the rpm and model designation being the same is just coincidence.
The L2650 manual says that engine is rated for/at 2600 rpm. Your B series manual would have that info.

I read that these newer tractors run a higher rpm to improve exhaust emissions. My BX idles at 1500 rpm and maxes out at 3200 rpm.

Wow, 3200. On page 3 of my manual under specifications it states engine rpm as 1100-2500.

 

[armylifer]

My BX1860 maxes out at 3450 RPM. I pretty sure that the max RPM is different between the different engines.

 

[William1]

Yup, my BX25 maxes at about 3,500 though I typically max run at 3,000 unless I am on a road and traveling a distance and then I let it fly. Good for clearing the mud from the tire lugs.....

My neighbor has a larger B series and he idles all the time. Manual trans, leaves it in 4 wd all the time. He thinks he is 'saving it' running the rpm so low and in 4 wd all the time. I cringe at the loadings going on.

 

[RCW]

Is it coincidence that the RPM is 2650 like the name? When I had the 3350 it maxed out at roughly 2500.

I know you may be hypersensitive after your 3350 experience. I would too.

A VERY general rule is a smaller engine of the same type will run at higher RPM.

Your manual says 2,500 RPM, and tach says 2,650. Given the lack of precision and inaccuracies of the machine, I wouldn't have an issue with 2,650 on the tach. At a difference of 150, it's within 6% give or take. Personally, I seldom run WOT. Close, but not wide open.

Your tractor looks great!

I know you've really been through the prickers to get to this point, and I wish you the very best with this machine!!

But for the cab, I know I'm envious, indeed!

 

[NEPA Guy]

I know you may be hypersensitive after your 3350 experience. I would too.

A VERY general rule is a smaller engine of the same type will run at higher RPM.

Your manual says 2,500 RPM, and tach says 2,650. Given the lack of precision and inaccuracies of the machine, I wouldn't have an issue with 2,650 on the tach. At a difference of 150, it's within 6% give or take. Personally, I seldom run WOT. Close, but not wide open.

Your tractor looks great!

I know you've really been through the prickers to get to this point, and I wish you the very best with this machine!!

But for the cab, I know I'm envious, indeed!

Thanks RCW, yeah I guess I am over cautious at this point with the machine.

Especially that I'm such an amateur when it comes to the tractor, We all have to start somewhere!

I'm looking forward to putting it to good use and learning as much as I can. Thx for the input!

 

[wngnut]

Interesting post. I was just considering posting something similar and found your post.

I've had my B2650 about a month now and I've noticed that the RPMs at WOT seem to vary by as much as 300-400 RPMs. After playing around with it last weekend I think I need to reroute and adjust the throttle cable.

If you slowly move the lever vs. a fast motion from idle to WOT it gives me very different RPM readings and the throttle doesn't always stay where you put it....it will sometimes walk itself back down a bit.

When I checked under the hood I noticed that the cable isn't routed ideally and no matter how you move the lever and then look at the linkage, it's never getting it to max range of motion.

The highest I can get mine is about 2600 RPMs but that takes a lot of messing around with the lever....it normally is more like 2400. I'm going to disconnect the linkage and reroute the cable and adjust it this weekend and I'll let ya know if that fixes it for me.

 

[NEPA Guy]

Interesting post. I was just considering posting something similar and found your post.

I've had my B2650 about a month now and I've noticed that the RPMs at WOT seem to vary by as much as 300-400 RPMs. After playing around with it last weekend I think I need to reroute and adjust the throttle cable.

If you slowly move the lever vs. a fast motion from idle to WOT it gives me very different RPM readings and the throttle doesn't always stay where you put it....it will sometimes walk itself back down a bit.

When I checked under the hood I noticed that the cable isn't routed ideally and no matter how you move the lever and then look at the linkage, it's never getting it to max range of motion.

The highest I can get mine is about 2600 RPMs but that takes a lot of messing around with the lever....it normally is more like 2400. I'm going to disconnect the linkage and reroute the cable and adjust it this weekend and I'll let ya know if that fixes it for me.

That's identical what happens to me. I notice that I can only get it to go to 2650 when I push the lever fast up, not slow. I also see that it creeps downwards slightly when idling. (i"m watching and varying my idle speeds for the break in)

I would be very interested to hear your results. I'm sure it's a minor issue as RCW pointed out. However as my wife says, I have OCD, lol but I prefer to think of myself as a perfectionist. I wouldn't mind tweaking it.

Could you elaborate more on your fix when you do it? I'll pop the hood today and locate the cable, but how do you disconnect the linkage, where would you reroute it to, and how do you make adjustments to it? A picture would be helpful if it's not too much trouble!

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[wngnut]

I'm going to work on it later today. It's raining here and I need to mow tomorrow so I want to get it done before I mow tomorrow.

I can take some pics but I think it will be obvious how to disconnect it and adjust it when you look at it. There is an adjustment on the cable right where it connects at the engine end under the hood. On mine you can see that moving the throttle lever through the range of motion doesn't allow the linkage to move through it's full range of motion when you look at it under the hood.

As far as routing, Mine is not a straight line route from where it comes into the engine compartment to the connection. It's kinda bent around some hoses that puts a couple of bends in it and I think that might be contributing to the "stickiness"?? Of the lever movement and causing it to back down from where you set it at WOT...we'll see. The adjustment can be done without disconnecting anything. Rerouting it will require it to be disconnected but not a big deal and you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at it I think.

 

[RCW]

Trust me guys, not trying to sound critical. But, I think you are both over-thinking things.

When mine was new, I didn't want max RPM, and was easy with the throttle.

I'm as OCD as the next guy with my "stuff," but there are REALLY minor issues that you are just better off not worrying about. I personally think this is one of them. If my new B2650 only did 2,400 RPM, I'd be okay with that. I wouldn't try to get the tach to read 2,500, because that's what the manual says. I also wouldn't make adjustments to get more RPM over 2,500.

On the other hand, if the tach said 1,800 WOT, or 1,500 at idle, I'd start wonderin'.....

Again, not to be critical at all. But I would worry more about fluids, leaks, and bolt torques more at this point in your tractor ownership.

You guys both have my dream tractor, and I wish you the best with them!

 

[RCW]

Just an afterthought - my BX2360 was 3 years old last month at ~180 hours now. I honestly don't know what the WOT rpm's are, because I haven't felt a need to find it.

I think I mow and snowblow at about 2,700 RPM or so, and I think my manual says max of about 3,200, like the other BX guys. I know that setting is enough throttle, and don't feel a need to peg it.

Again, no offence intended, and I certainly hope none taken!

 

[RCW]

Guess I wasn't far off.

Had to wipe dust off the tach, been a little dry here. Can see my finger swipe.

 

[wngnut]

It's more of an annoyance than anything really but those 200-400 RPMs do make a difference. I run it at WOT when I'm mowing which is what I use it for 95% of the time.

It's annoying that it keeps gradually backing down the RPMs and the lever doesn't feel smooth. It feels like it's got a kink in it and since it isn't routed very well I'm figuring that could be part of it. It's going to be tomorrow before I get to it now but I'll let ya know if ti's any better once I get it rerouted.

Heck it's brand new I don't have anything else to bitch about or tinker with on it so I gotta find something!!!!

 

[NEPA Guy]

I'm going to work on it later today. It's raining here and I need to mow tomorrow so I want to get it done before I mow tomorrow.

I can take some pics but I think it will be obvious how to disconnect it and adjust it when you look at it. There is an adjustment on the cable right where it connects at the engine end under the hood. On mine you can see that moving the throttle lever through the range of motion doesn't allow the linkage to move through it's full range of motion when you look at it under the hood.

As far as routing, Mine is not a straight line route from where it comes into the engine compartment to the connection. It's kinda bent around some hoses that puts a couple of bends in it and I think that might be contributing to the "stickiness"?? Of the lever movement and causing it to back down from where you set it at WOT...we'll see. The adjustment can be done without disconnecting anything. Rerouting it will require it to be disconnected but not a big deal and you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at it I think.

Sure thanks. It's raining here too, falling behind on some work, I'll get some time over then next day or three to check it out and decide what to do.

 

[RCW]

Heck it's brand new I don't have anything else to bitch about or tinker with on it so I gotta find something!!!!

I can relate to that!!!

 

[wngnut]

It works much better now. The throttle lever feels much smoother and it stays where you put it. I mowed all day with it and it worked great after I rerouted it.

I took a little slack out of it with the adjuster too and it runs 2600 at WOT throttle now every time instead of anywhere from 2300 or so up like it did before.

I installed my radio today too and killed my AC in the process.....that's another story. LOL

Before:





After:

 

[NEPA Guy]

It works much better now. The throttle lever feels much smoother and it stays where you put it. I mowed all day with it and it worked great after I rerouted it.

I took a little slack out of it with the adjuster too and it runs 2600 at WOT throttle now every time instead of anywhere from 2300 or so up like it did before.

I installed my radio today too and killed my AC in the process.....that's another story. LOL

Before:





After:

Great shots. How did you take up the slack? Do you need to cut the wire, or can you just tighten it?

My previous dealer knocked out the AC relay when installing my old radio. I hear it's a common problem. I believe you need to take the roof off to access the relays. Just four bolts from what I was told.

 

[D2Cat]

Looks like someone was late to lunch and just had to get it connected. No thought of what's a direct path!

Your pictures will probably save a lot of folks continued grief. I'm sure they will thank you!!

 

[wngnut]

Great shots. How did you take up the slack? Do you need to cut the wire, or can you just tighten it?

My previous dealer knocked out the AC relay when installing my old radio. I hear it's a common problem. I believe you need to take the roof off to access the relays. Just four bolts from what I was told.

You just tighten it up. The first pic is probably the best shot of the adjusting bolts. In the first picture look at the left end of the black rubber accordion looking thing covering the bare cable. You'll see two bolts, one on each side of the bracket. Loosen those up and turn it to adjust out the slack and then tighten them up on the bracket again. Rerouting it and adjusting it was a 10 minute job.


As far as the AC....took me darn near all day to figure out why the heck it suddenly wasn't working any more. It is HOT@@@....in that cab one a sunny day without the AC. It finally dawned on me that the only thing I had done since I last used the AC was install the radio.....and although I couldn't imagine that had anything to do with why the compressor wasn't kicking on, I went ahead and took the radio back out. Sure enough....there was two wires and two bare spades on a relay on the right inside of the radio opening. Connected them back up, pushed the wires up so they'd go over the top of the radio when I put it back in and everything works fine.

Oddly, the light on the AC switch came on even with those wires disconnected so that made me originally assume it wasn't electrical but everything else checked out.