First time poster, long time lurker. I took delivery of a new MX5200DT with loader, backhoe and 3rd function on 4/26/16. Used tractors since I was big enough to reach the pedals (and rode on them long before that) but this is the first that is my own. Also my first experience with a loader and backhoe.
I have sort of a love/hate relationship with the 3 point. I thought the extendable lower links and telescopic stabilizers would help with implement hookup, and while they do, I've had issues with getting the lower links to slide off the implement pins. Plus it gets irritating removing and reinstalling the stabilizer pins. My dad had a set of Pat's easy change hitches that he tried on another tractor but didn't use because the tiller PTO shaft was too short. I decided to install them on the new tractor and I think they will work awesomely but I need a longer top link. I've ordered a manual link from AgriSupply that I think will work for most of my implements but I want a hydraulic link anyway. 36" may work, but I'd like something a couple inches longer. I found this at surplus center:http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2-5X16X1-5-DA-HYD-CYL-SWIVEL-EYES-9-7260-16.axd
It looks like basically the same thing as their top link cylinders except this one looks like the metal is wider where the balls are (but the balls are the same width) and this one has SAE threads instead of NPT. Just wanting to see if anybody sees an issue with using this as a top link. This would provide more range and a longer max length than anything I can find in a hydraulic top link.
The other things I don't like about the 3 point is the top and side adjustments. I've never had a lock nut on the top link which is a pain loosen and tighten to make adjustments and one reason I want a hydraulic top link. Hour 1 of bush hogging and the top link pretty much extended itself all the way out. The other toplinks I use also have longer levers to give more leverage for adjustments. Also always had a hand crank side adjustment, this Kubota one is a pain to adjust but I usually only need to adjust when hooking up implements and the Pat's hitches should eliminate that need. Otherwise this tractor is miles ahead of (and 25-65 years newer than) the other tractors we have. The extendable lower links worked great to hook up and I like that the stabilizers keep implements from swinging, especially when backing up the bush hog. With the Pat's hitches I can set the stabilizers to the correct width and just backup and easily hook up to the implement, and if the implement I just unhooked from is the same width as the one I'm going to hook up to that's even better.
The only other thing I don't like about this tractor is that the parking brake only holds the left brake. I've never used a tractor with the brakes locked together, they were always pretty much unlocked on day 1 and always stayed that way. Use the split brakes a lot when turning at the end of the field when working the dirt.
Here's a pic of the rig the day of delivery:
Also already installed a Piranha Tooth Bar and some mirrors and bought a set of Titan pallet forks. Changed that skimpy plastic tool box with larger metal one from Tractor Supply and added a bXpanded ROPS tool box, although that plastic box soon fell off and was eaten by the bush hog (good thing I didn't have anything in it yet) I was able to use the bracket for a 30 cal ammo can. Also plan on adding a Greens Machine thumb, rock bucket, and possibly a limb hog. Also want to get a used log splitter (preferably one with a bad motor and can get it on the cheap) and mount to the front to split those blocks that are too big to get on our splitter instead of splitting them with wedges and mauls. Want to add some other ammo can storage, a chainsaw holder and do the 4" pipe in the loader mount trick as well. (I like to carry as much stuff as I can that I might need, I'm the same way with my truck as well.) Obviously I've spent too much time reading forums and shopping in the last 5 years or so that I've been wanting to buy a tractor. After I get my summer food plots in then I can hook the backhoe back up and do some work with it (aka learn how to use it and play in the dirt) and figure out more of these storage issues that won't interfere with the backhoe seat when it's on.
I have sort of a love/hate relationship with the 3 point. I thought the extendable lower links and telescopic stabilizers would help with implement hookup, and while they do, I've had issues with getting the lower links to slide off the implement pins. Plus it gets irritating removing and reinstalling the stabilizer pins. My dad had a set of Pat's easy change hitches that he tried on another tractor but didn't use because the tiller PTO shaft was too short. I decided to install them on the new tractor and I think they will work awesomely but I need a longer top link. I've ordered a manual link from AgriSupply that I think will work for most of my implements but I want a hydraulic link anyway. 36" may work, but I'd like something a couple inches longer. I found this at surplus center:http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2-5X16X1-5-DA-HYD-CYL-SWIVEL-EYES-9-7260-16.axd
It looks like basically the same thing as their top link cylinders except this one looks like the metal is wider where the balls are (but the balls are the same width) and this one has SAE threads instead of NPT. Just wanting to see if anybody sees an issue with using this as a top link. This would provide more range and a longer max length than anything I can find in a hydraulic top link.
The other things I don't like about the 3 point is the top and side adjustments. I've never had a lock nut on the top link which is a pain loosen and tighten to make adjustments and one reason I want a hydraulic top link. Hour 1 of bush hogging and the top link pretty much extended itself all the way out. The other toplinks I use also have longer levers to give more leverage for adjustments. Also always had a hand crank side adjustment, this Kubota one is a pain to adjust but I usually only need to adjust when hooking up implements and the Pat's hitches should eliminate that need. Otherwise this tractor is miles ahead of (and 25-65 years newer than) the other tractors we have. The extendable lower links worked great to hook up and I like that the stabilizers keep implements from swinging, especially when backing up the bush hog. With the Pat's hitches I can set the stabilizers to the correct width and just backup and easily hook up to the implement, and if the implement I just unhooked from is the same width as the one I'm going to hook up to that's even better.
The only other thing I don't like about this tractor is that the parking brake only holds the left brake. I've never used a tractor with the brakes locked together, they were always pretty much unlocked on day 1 and always stayed that way. Use the split brakes a lot when turning at the end of the field when working the dirt.
Here's a pic of the rig the day of delivery:
Also already installed a Piranha Tooth Bar and some mirrors and bought a set of Titan pallet forks. Changed that skimpy plastic tool box with larger metal one from Tractor Supply and added a bXpanded ROPS tool box, although that plastic box soon fell off and was eaten by the bush hog (good thing I didn't have anything in it yet) I was able to use the bracket for a 30 cal ammo can. Also plan on adding a Greens Machine thumb, rock bucket, and possibly a limb hog. Also want to get a used log splitter (preferably one with a bad motor and can get it on the cheap) and mount to the front to split those blocks that are too big to get on our splitter instead of splitting them with wedges and mauls. Want to add some other ammo can storage, a chainsaw holder and do the 4" pipe in the loader mount trick as well. (I like to carry as much stuff as I can that I might need, I'm the same way with my truck as well.) Obviously I've spent too much time reading forums and shopping in the last 5 years or so that I've been wanting to buy a tractor. After I get my summer food plots in then I can hook the backhoe back up and do some work with it (aka learn how to use it and play in the dirt) and figure out more of these storage issues that won't interfere with the backhoe seat when it's on.
but you will need to modify the tractor end some to work with your tractor.
