BX2750A Snowblower Repair - Replacing Drive Shaft with Sprocket

[Timberline]

Many years ago I hit some kind of rock that resulted in a bent fan blade and one of the augers. I would have expected one of the shear bolts to break, but neither the fan's or auger's broke. What did break was the spring pin holding the small drive sprocket to the shaft. That first time I took it to the dealer for repair and ended up with a hardened steel pin with a cap on one end and a washer and cotter pin on the other end, but not as tight a fit as a spring pin.

This worked for about four years, but I suspect through sheer wear, the soft steel cotter pin wore out and the pin was thrown. The down side of this fix was due to the slop in the pin, the two holes in the gear got worn and elongated. I was able to repair it twice with the correct spring pin, but though the hole in the shaft was still tight, the elongation of the holes in the gear along with the resulting slop, resulted in wearing out the ends of the spring pins.

After this last failure, fortunately as I was finishing the last blowing for the season, I decide to replace shaft and gear. Even though the Parts Manual shows the gear as being attached to the shaft with a spring pin, it is only sold as a single assembly. I ordered a replacement and am guessing that there were other such failures since the new assembly has the gear welded to the shaft rather than being attached via a spring pin.

This then brings me to my dilemma. I've removed all the bolts and set screws, but found the shaft is pressed into the u-joint yoke and both bearings. I've attached a photo and am looking for some suggestions as to what kind of tools I may need to get this whole thing apart

 

[boz1989]

From the picture I can't tell what is holding the universal on, I would guess that there's a key on it and will have to be pulled off. The bearings have lock collars on them that need to be removed first. To remove the collar you need to loosen the set screw, then take a hammer and punch in the non threaded hole. If put on correctly, it was tightened the same direction as the shaft rotates. If things are clean & you are the lucky type, after a couple whacks in the opposite direction, the collar slides off and the bearing slides off after that... But, in real life, you will probably need a big hammer and possibly a fire wrench.

Hopefully someone else knows an easy way to pull the universal.

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk

 

[Diydave]

Was there a set screw in the drive shaft? If so, prolly has a key. if not, might be another pin, all the way through the shaft. Might need a small gear puller, there, 2 jaw. I'd also invest in a set of roll pin pinches, which have a ball, in the center of the punch, to center the shoulders on the spring (roll) pin. Makes it easy to drive out the spring(roll) pins, without boogering them up past re-use.

Like these: http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/39...xKJdEURszXJkA3FZn4U2DTZsKW-3l2Pb3IaAucM8P8HAQ

 

[Timberline]

.....The bearings have lock collars on them that need to be removed first. To remove the collar you need to loosen the set screw, then take a hammer and punch in the non threaded hole. If put on correctly, it was tightened the same direction as the shaft rotates. If things are clean & you are the lucky type, after a couple whacks in the opposite direction, the collar slides off and the bearing slides off after that... But, in real life, you will probably need a big hammer and possibly a fire wrench.

Each bearing had two set screws and no non-threaded hole.

 

[Timberline]

Was there a set screw in the drive shaft? If so, prolly has a key. if not, might be another pin, all the way through the shaft. Might need a small gear puller, there, 2 jaw. I'd also invest in a set of roll pin pinches, which have a ball, in the center of the punch, to center the shoulders on the spring (roll) pin. Makes it easy to drive out the spring(roll) pins, without boogering them up past re-use....

The yoke end attached to the shaft had a straight through bolt & nut and one set screw over a key. The key is loose and has slid part way out, but the shaft is still tightly held. Looks like I may have to first take the u-joint apart to be able to get any kind of puller to work.

 

[Tughill Tom]

The yoke end attached to the shaft had a straight through bolt & nut and one set screw over a key. The key is loose and has slid part way out, but the shaft is still tightly held. Looks like I may have to first take the u-joint apart to be able to get any kind of puller to work.

Try a tie rod removal fork or tapered wedges to push it off. Good luck!

 

[kubotasam]

Try a tie rod removal fork or tapered wedges to push it off. Good luck!

Bolt the bearings back to the housing then use the wedge between the end of the bearing and the yoke. It should come off without to much trouble.

 

[boz1989]

Then it must be one piece, loosen the set screws and it should move. If it doesn't, one trick is to remove a screw, fill the hole with penetrating fluid, tighten the screw to help force fluid in. Before reassembly, take a flat file and smooth the dimples from the set screws.

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk

 

[Diydave]

If its a set screw over a key, take out the set screw, do the penetrating oil trick, and you might be able to tap the yoke off the shaft with a hammer, if you have space enough to swing...