Repaint?
- Thread starter AllThingsOrange
- Start date
Maybe. Crazy part about it was I followed the directions to a T! It said to lay coats between each other 3 mins apart. And lay first coat of paint within 10 mins after last coat of Plastic Adhesion Promoter.
Not sure what to do at this point.....
Sand a little and attempt to repaint only. Don't know?
That's true to a certain extent. What you can't tell from my first picture is the splatters were from some type of chemical that removed paint. It wouldn't of just buffed out. If only it was that easy...
I don't mind the look. Someone else on another site suggested wet sanding until the orange peel is gone and then repaint.
it was that easy...I don't mind the look. Someone else on another site suggested wet sanding until the orange peel is gone and then repaint.
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That's what I would do wet sand and see if you can get it smooth, be a shame to have to take it all back down to bare metal. Initially I would've thought that one coat of primer would have been sufficient anyway good luck again.
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Thanks! This is actually a plastic hood. Not metal. Used a little different approach. Reason why I used the recommended Plastic Adhesion Promoter before straight painting....
My day just got better..... Talked to a local body shop who we do a lot of business with and he's going to have one of this guys do a wet sand 1000-2000 grit sand paper and get them to shoot it with clear coat.... FREE OF CHARGE.
Who does that? I couldn't believe he offered. I was just going to get some advice and told him what I had. He wants me to drop off tomorrow morning and I can probably pick it up in the afternoon.
What a guy!
Who does that? I couldn't believe he offered. I was just going to get some advice and told him what I had. He wants me to drop off tomorrow morning and I can probably pick it up in the afternoon.
What a guy!
Sorry I forgot it was plastic for a moment. I just thought of something, I am not sure how rough the finish is but before you sand it how about putting one more coat of orange on it now that it is good and dry. Maybe test in area by headlights or somewhere that will be least conspicuous. It's possible it might smooth out (trying to save you some work ).
We must of been posting at the same time I like the bodyshop idea LOL
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Great minds think alike!!! Me too! I'll post a pic as soon as I get it back in my hands. I'm looking forward to seeing that baby!
Right!
I'm glad just for what he's doing.... I'm going to take the rest of the body and compound and buff out that paint. I'm sure I can come close to matching the hood. A lot more work involved for the body!
Drum roll please...............
I'm so pleased with the way it turned out.... So I decided to grease the palm of the painter with a crisp $20 bill. This was a suggestion by the owner, but I told him I had decided to do so anyway. So I'm thinking what am I going to do to make the rest of the tractor look like new?
I was given an orbital buffer by my father-in-law last year in exchange for washing and waxing a 69 Camaro he bought. I'm going to use that along with some rubbing compound. That should do the trick! Any tips from the pros would be helpful! Products or methods used would be appreciated as well!
Here's the spot I tried with a Turtle wax liquid polish. I'm thinking about dabbling in using some clay bar for the first time. I need a better canvas to work with. The area I tried has had gas run down the body more than once and it's made an impact on the finish for sure.
I'm so pleased with the way it turned out.... So I decided to grease the palm of the painter with a crisp $20 bill. This was a suggestion by the owner, but I told him I had decided to do so anyway. So I'm thinking what am I going to do to make the rest of the tractor look like new?
I was given an orbital buffer by my father-in-law last year in exchange for washing and waxing a 69 Camaro he bought. I'm going to use that along with some rubbing compound. That should do the trick! Any tips from the pros would be helpful! Products or methods used would be appreciated as well!
Here's the spot I tried with a Turtle wax liquid polish. I'm thinking about dabbling in using some clay bar for the first time. I need a better canvas to work with. The area I tried has had gas run down the body more than once and it's made an impact on the finish for sure.
RonBoyBX25D
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650, LP Grapple, Bro-Tek spacers, QH, Box Blade, Landscape Rake, RB, and 1560G
If you want some tips take a look at Adamspolishes.com they have a forum along with product to help you out. I use their product exclusively on my boat, cars, and trucks...now my tractor.
The forum over there is almost as nice as OTT too.
The forum over there is almost as nice as OTT too.
try some New finish in the orange bottle it works really well at removing oxidation and wont accidentally hurt anything. Polishers and clay, you might go thru the paint.
CaveCreekRay
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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Clay bars pick up surface contaminants in paint. You use a liquid to keep the clay away from the actual paint like oil keeps your rings away from the cylinder bore.
If the rest of the shell is paint or plastic, NuFinish is awesome in restoring shine. Just remember: Its silicone based and needs two applications over a couple week period to get max protection.
Can't wait to see it all done.
Ray
If the rest of the shell is paint or plastic, NuFinish is awesome in restoring shine. Just remember: Its silicone based and needs two applications over a couple week period to get max protection.
Can't wait to see it all done.
Ray
Thanks for the tips guys! I'm probably going out to the store today and picking up some NuFinish! WOW! That Adam sure knows his stuff! I really like the videos he has. Very informative and helpful.
Wow that looks like new they did a great job hope the rest of the body turns out as good. Can't wait to see it altogether. Now about those wheels!
Mmmmmmm Hmmmmmm. You think they would look good black? I'm going to have to agree with you the more I look at them. I'm just not sure how the finish is going to turn out.. You've got to get really close when on the inside of the wheel?
What steps did you paint yours in... Or did you do yours youself? What products did you use? Thanks so much!
When I was at the dealership buying this machine it was exactly what I needed for 1 acre of grass and a 10 car driveway to keep clear of the Canadian winter snow and many leaf shedding trees ,all new high-quality material and a strong diesel engine with all-wheel-drive at probably twice the price of other brands. This was the machine I wanted but when I looked around the dealership at all the other tractors with their bright orange wheels I said to the salesman what's with the aftermarket generic looking-wheels, he said I could not get them in orange. So I bought it anyway and decided after a couple months of looking at them wheels that they needed to be changed so I figured I would try black and if I didn't like it then I would paint them orange. I just went to Home Depot got a Can of trem clad primer and give it one good coat touching up any missed spots after a few hours let it dry overnight,did the same thing with the trem clad glossy black paint and then give it another coat the next day on the third day I used the trem clad clearcoat and they came out very well actually to my surprise. It's been on there for a little over a year and it looks as good as the day I put on it easy to clean etc.I might have bought two spray cans of the black I can't remember but the whole thing cost less than $30
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I had to really lighten up this photo to see the wheels properly, also didn't paint the hardware.
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I had to really lighten up this photo to see the wheels properly, also didn't paint the hardware.
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