L245 DT Steering Repair

[AshleyBS55]

I have a Kubota L245DT. Someone installed an aftermarket power steering unit on it. From what I can tell, it looks like it came from a small riding mower. It lasted a little over a year after I bought it, then the fittings starting blowing out. No hydraulic shop has seen fittings like this.
My plan is to take the power steering unit off and see if someone can tap it so I can put screw fittings in, which I think will work.
I've never taken the steering column from a tractor before. If anyone can give me an advice or link me to a video for removing the steering wheel and steering column, I would greatly appreciate it.
It's a great tractor all around, but I can't get around without steering. lol
Thanks,
Bruce

 

[Diydave]

I have a Kubota L245DT. Someone installed an aftermarket power steering unit on it. From what I can tell, it looks like it came from a small riding mower. It lasted a little over a year after I bought it, then the fittings starting blowing out. No hydraulic shop has seen fittings like this.
My plan is to take the power steering unit off and see if someone can tap it so I can put screw fittings in, which I think will work.
I've never taken the steering column from a tractor before. If anyone can give me an advice or link me to a video for removing the steering wheel and steering column, I would greatly appreciate it.
It's a great tractor all around, but I can't get around without steering. lol
Thanks,
Bruce

Bruce, Some pics would help...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'll second the pic's.
I will also send you to a link for a download of the WSM (Service Manual), that will give you the break down of the repairs.

 

[AshleyBS55]

I'll take some pics after I get the steering wheel off, which I'm having difficulty with, and take off the dash and remove the fuel tank. Right now, it's hard to get a clear pic that I think you can use to help me.
Thanks to both of you for your quick response. Will post pics asap.

 

[AshleyBS55]

I've got the steering wheel off and the bolts holding the dash. I'm attaching a couple of pics. If I disconnect the two wire connectors, will I be able to lift the dash over the steering column enough to work on the fuel tank? Do I also need to disconnect the wires that are connected in the pic with the small wing twist wire connectors? I'm hoping I don't have to disconnect the stop engine wire or anything else.

I've also posted a couple of pics of the power steering unit where the hoses go as well as what the end of the hoses look like and the steel plate that held it on. It worked well for over a year, but then they would not hold for more than a few hours.

Again, I appreciate all your help. This is my first time tearing into a steering system. I received a lot of help in the past from this site and was able to do a lot a repairs because of the help from guys like you.

 

[D2Cat]

Don't you have a fuel return line on the right side of the firewall that need separated? And the decompression knob on the left side? Is there a bolt in the center of the firewall going back towards the steering wheel holding a cross brace in the front of the fuel tank?

And I think you have to remove the the harness connections to raise the dash.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Those type of hydraulic fittings need a perfect fitting o-ring. Something called 90 durometer. The regular type o rings found in kits will not last.
It needs to be clean and o rings neet a little oil prior to assembly. Cant tell you what its from, but some tractors used that type of hydraulic connector.
Would help to see steering box and hyd steering control.

 

[AshleyBS55]

D2Cat: Yes I have a return fuel line and the decompression line. I was hoping I could just lift the dash over the steering column and set it back without disconnecting those. Sounds like that's not possible. I'll check on the bolt in the center, but I don't recall seeing one.

Tooljunkie: It looks like this unit may have come from a riding mower. I think the compression will hold, but as you said, the guy I bought this from just made his own fittings. I didn't know enough about tractors when I bought it to look for this issue. I'm hoping once I take the unit out someone can tap it and then I can have fittings that will screw in tight. This is my first experience taking anything like this apart. As I move forward, I'll post more pics. No one in my area has seen fittings like mine. Do you think once I take it off, that a hydraulic shop might have the correct fittings if it can't be tapped?

 

[AshleyBS55]

D2Cat: There is not a bolt in the center. I had to take a brace that was on the front that kept the steering column stabilized. It was obviously something put on after market.
Do I need to disconnect the decompression line and fuel line from behind the dash or near the motor?
Also, once that's done, do I need to disconnect the electrical lines and if so, where is the best place to do that. There's a large center piece behind the dash. Do I need to disconnect that as well? (See pic)

 

[ironpony]

I agree with above post, a little more searching and you should be able to find some gaskets and not have to do all that modification. I am thinking similar to an o ring but flat and 90 durometer refers to the "hardness" of rubber so that is pretty firm.

 

[AshleyBS55]

I've been able to get some flat o-rings as suggested above. I'm wondering if anybody knows where I might get fittings for this particular pump. I can't find a brand name or a model number. Attached are picks of the fittings I have. They were obviously made by the previous owner. As you can see I have three different size fittings (as far as depth is concerned). I think this is also one of the problems. If I had the same size fittings, especially ones that were designed for that particular pump, then they will seal better.
Any info is appreciated.

 

[AshleyBS55]

OK, guys, here's what I've done. I took the power steering unit off, it went to a John Deere riding mower. I took it to a machinist who did a tap and die, then went to a hydraulic shop and had fittings to match. I'm in the process of putting it back together.

The problem I'm running into now is when I connected the decompression line, the knob on the dash won't pull out. As I said before, I'm new at all of this. I marked where it the line was exposed and where the screw was so I could put it back as it was. Any help is again appreciated greatly.

 

[AshleyBS55]

Another question about the decompression. When I bought this tractor a few years ago, the previous owner told me to shut down the engine by pulling the decompression knob. Now I'm reading and it seems that is not a good way to stop the engine except in emergencies. Is there a better way to turn off the engine? If I continue to use the decompression knob to stop the engine, will it have any negative effects? Again, that's all I've used for the last four years and haven't noticed any damage.

Thanks

 

[D2Cat]

You should not use the decompression to shut down the engine. You have (or should have) a KILL lever.

On my L305 it's down on the right side by your right toe. When that lever it pushed the fuel control knob at your foot moves up to indicate it's getting less fuel and finally cuts off.

The decompression knob is a line similar to the old choke cable used many moons ago on automobiles. It comes from your dash knob up to the front of the valve cover. It's mounted in a bracket to hold it in place and has an extension spring to help activate it. Inside the valve cover it opens the valves enough you don't have good compression.

If the lever/spring setup at the valve cover is not moving and returning to the original position spray with your favorite rust buster solution and try to activate you knob by pushing or pulling. If you have the line loose at the valve cover hold that end up and spray your rust buster down it as you try to move the cable in the housing.

 

[AshleyBS55]

Thanks. Yes, I found that lever and will use it from now on. I was able to fix the decompression link. It was just stiff and I added a little lubricant to help it along. This morning I tried to starting, bleeding the injectors, but the battery didn't have enough charge to keep turning so I'm now recharging my battery, but I am confident it will start (I've never had trouble with it starting.), and I'll be able to test the new power steering connections. I'm excited to have my beast back and have learned once again that if I want something done, I'm best to do it myself.

Thanks again to everybody who responded. You help is always greatly appreciate.

 

[AshleyBS55]

Thought I was done, but not quite. My tractor won't start. It turns over and acts like it's going to catch, but never does. I've bled the injectors, and small screw below the injectors, and a screw on top of the fuel filter. Any ideas what else I can do? I bled the injectors until I saw what I thought was fuel coming through and no more bubbles. Since I had the fuel tank off and refilled it, should I bleed it longer. I bled it for about 3-4 minutes and then started seeing what I thought was a steady stream of fuel.

Thanks again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Try bleeding it again, set throttle to high, and make sure shut down lever is off.
Also if you adjusted the decompression or valves double check that they are not held open.

 

[AshleyBS55]

I tried with the throttle on high. I've cranked until the battery is going to need recharging. When I tighten the middle injector, the motor runs stronger. Nothing changed when I tighten the other two. Also, each time I go out to try again, I get more air bubbles from the injectors. Does that mean that I just need to keep bleeding. I've bled and tried to start this tractor five times for about 1/2 hour each time.

It hasn't been run for almost two years since the power steering pump started leaking.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you keep getting bubbles, you are getting air in the system, did you pull the filter?
If you did go back to it and look and make sure that sealed, shut off valve is on and any bleed screws are closed.

I like to drop the filter housing, run some fuel out, install filter and housing but leave it loose open the fuel valve and fill it till it over flows and little then quickly tighten the housing the rest of the way.

 

[D2Cat]

" When I tighten the middle injector, the motor runs stronger." Does this mean the engine is now running?