Rear axle seal L1501

[Daren Todd]

Started tearing down the old gal to replace the axle seal today

I first soaked the fender bolts with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid. A medicine bulb worked good for getting the mixture into the tight spot for the bolts.



After applying morning and night for 4 days, I decided to get started. Getting to the bolts was tight. And the bolts did not want to give up very easily. After soaking, I still had work the nuts on and off to work all the crud out of the threads. The first bolt where I had more room took 20 minutes.



The second nut took 1 hour!!! By the time it came loose I had invented new cuss words, and was cursing the bloody engineer who came up with the mounting design for the fender

It worked out to 3 clicks forward, two clicks backwards on the ratchet.










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[Daren Todd]

Finally got the last nut removed, and the fender off



Gonna chase the threads with my tap and die set before installing the fender back on. Gonna fight and pull the fender on the other side as well. They need to be straightened and the paints flacking off.

Removed the tire and said to heck with it for tonight



I did soak all those little bolts on the axle case with some more 50/50 mix. Draining the fluid and removing all those little bolts will be tomorrow's project.


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[D2Cat]

No matter how long they take to get out, and no matter how many new words you come up with....don't get in such a hurry you end up snapping them off. Because then you will need a dictionary!!

 

[Tooljunkie]

I got some words, but i think i first heard them from Yosemite Sam. Did a stuck block heater in a cadillac 3.5,it plugs into a bore in the block. Took 11 hours.

Hope you succeed in removing all them bolts without breakage. Lots of photos and good details please.

Here ya go
http://youtu.be/QnDxPG3KrtA

 

[Diydave]

I got some words, but i think i first heard them from Yosemite Sam. Did a stuck block heater in a cadillac 3.5,it plugs into a bore in the block. Took 11 hours.

Hope you succeed in removing all them bolts without breakage. Lots of photos and good details please.

Here ya go
http://youtu.be/QnDxPG3KrtA

Dammit, TJ, now I just wasted another 15 minnits on youtube...

 

[Daren Todd]

Figures, got the bota torn down. Now they are calling for snow Sunday

Got the gasket and lip seal today



Removing the housing and draining the oil was easy breezy compared to removing the fender





Gonna take the lip seal and housing into work to finish tearing it down. The housing needs a serious cleaning on the outside. Plus I have a better selection of tools and pullers there

Gonna inspect the bearings while it's apart. If they seem to be worn I'll run over to the local bearing supplier and have them match them up.


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[Daren Todd]

Went into work early this morning to dig into the case

First thing is to remove the nut. It has a flat spot in the shaft. So first thing is to pry out the dimple so the nut will move freely.



Then hit it with an impact after setting locking into the vise. Socket size is 1 13/16" or metric equivalent. Didn't have either, but an 1 7/8" socket works in a pinch since it's only torqued to 140 ft/lbs.



Next, loosen the vice so it just supports the case. Then a dead blow makes quick work of removing the shaft from the bearings . Make sure and keep track of the order on your spacers and brass rings.










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[Daren Todd]

Next I removed the snap ring holding the bearing in the case.





Then the wiper sleeve off the shaft that the lip seal rides on. A couple of alignment bars make really quick work of it








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[Lil Foot]

Wow, that's a lot of work! Makes me feel guilty after replacing the axle seals on my B7100- took maybe 12-15 mins per side. Jack it up, pull the wheel & hub, wipe, pry the old seal out, tap in the new one, re-assemble. I shall now consider myself blessed.

 

[D2Cat]

Daren, nice work. Thanks for the pictures. All the right tools make it less stressful.

At the rate you're going you'll have it back together by midnight, after working all day at the shop!

Don't worry about snow. Those folks might be right but it might be 20 miles away, not where you are.

 

[Daren Todd]

Then removed the lip seal from the case.

NOTE: there is a second snap ring in between the bearing and lip seal. When removing the lip seal, take care to not damage the snap ring





After removing the lip seal, it dawned on me why it had been oozing since I've owned it. Someone had replaced that seal before and installed it spring side out towards the tire

I read through the service manual the other day, and it was very specific and stated "Spring side of lip seal, faces towards the bearing!!"

Nice thing is the lip seal comes with a new sleeve as well



Bearings look great. With no signs of abnormal wear, tear, or scoring. So they are gonna be reused



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[Grouse Feathers]

Now the big question is the other side installed correctly? Do you wait for it to leak at an inopportune time or inspect at your convenience while you have the fenders off? Plus right now you know exactly how to do it.

 

[Daren Todd]

Now the big question is the other side installed correctly? Do you wait for it to leak at an inopportune time or inspect at your convenience while you have the fenders off? Plus right now you know exactly how to do it.

I know it, been thinking the same thing this morning. You can see where someone went in the other side. It has white silicone sealing the case. But if it was backwards, I would have already seen oozing. So I'll leave that side for now. So far it's been pretty painless to do.

With shipping, the parts were under $50 Course, I gotta stop and get 10 gallons of oil on my way home

 

[Daren Todd]

Here's a good closeup of what happens when the seal is in backwards. Spring facing the tire.




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[Daren Todd]

Ran the case through the parts washer for a while to soak the old paper gasket. Finally resorted to scraping it by hand. And then hitting with a die grinder with wire brush to clean it up





Ran the case through the parts washer again after to clean it up. Then dried it.




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[Daren Todd]

Installed the sleeve onto the shaft. Then installed lip seal in the case.



Notice that you can't see the spring

Then started reassembling it



Installed bearings as well. Got ahead of myself and forgot to snap some picks

Installed spacer and collar










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[D2Cat]

Man, you are afraid you're going to be caught in a blizzard!!

 

[Daren Todd]

Then installed the gear along with axle shaft.

Note: mark the top of the gear BEFORE removing it save confusion when reinstalling



Add your last copper washer and collar.

Then install the bearing





Then install the nut.

Note: torque spec on the nut is between 110 and 140 ft/lbs. I torqued to 140 ft/lbs



Don't forget to tap the divot on the nut back into the flat spot to lock it in the shaft




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[Daren Todd]

And finally it's ready to put back on the tractor



It's quite s bit cleaner as well compared to when it came off




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[rentthis]

Man Darren, If I ever have that problem, I hope I can remember these posts. You should be writing Kubota workshop manuals.