Removing bx tie rod

[Joninct]

So it was suggested to me today to possibly tack weld on a fenderwasher to the top of the hub arm as a means of reducing the slop. It is not as clean a fix as I would like but on paper it seems like it may work? Any others want to chime in on this?
The loctite stuff is available in a 1oz size which is less$ than the larger bottle that was linked. I am not really sure how this stuff works but I am willing to try it. Is it like a JB Weld?

 

[Tooljunkie]

Up here is a machinist supply, hand reamers arent all that expensive. Mine were passed on to me, so i cant even guess at a price.

 

[Joninct]

I have never used one. Is this something you would use after adding new metal like with a welder? The bottom of the taper seems fine. It is the top portion which has the most damage.
Update- The Loctite I was speaking of is only available in the $50 size. The smaller tube was a different product.

Up here is a machinist supply, hand reamers arent all that expensive. Mine were passed on to me, so i cant even guess at a price.

 

[Dave_eng]

So it was suggested to me today to possibly tack weld on a fenderwasher to the top of the hub arm as a means of reducing the slop. It is not as clean a fix as I would like but on paper it seems like it may work? Any others want to chime in on this?
The loctite stuff is available in a 1oz size which is less$ than the larger bottle that was linked. I am not really sure how this stuff works but I am willing to try it. Is it like a JB Weld?

Joninct
I am a mechanical engineer by profession and am now 69 and thus have seen a lot of fixes. I dont profess to know more than others with a strong practical bent. What I can do is look at the basic forces involved now that the part is worn and the washer idea is being considered. In my opinion, while the washer will hold the upper part of the tapered stud from moving sideways, it will become a fulcrum or pivot point for the stud portion below the washer to move around and continue to wear.
The loctite product is much more high tech than JB weld which is very similar to an epoxy. I dont feel JB has the compression strength to stand up to the forces first when you cinch down the castellated nut and then when you input steering forces. The tapered nature of the tie rod end joint is like a super wedge and the radially outward forces when the tapered stud moves down as it is tightened are extreme.

Retaining compounds are liquid anaerobic structural adhesives that cure or polymerize when confined without air between close fitting metal surfaces. Retaining compounds are specifically formulated to join cylindrical, unthreaded metal parts together. These adhesives fill the empty space between mating interference fitted parts and cure to chemically unitize the assembly. You need to let the parts sit assembled for 24 hrs for maximum strength./

Dave M7040

 

[Joninct]

Ah ok I see what you mean. I enjoying learning new things! It can't hurt to try it right? I just wonder if, after spending $50 if I will ever use the bottle again...
The washer idea was suggested by the hardware store guy where I went to buy new castle nuts. It seemed like an ok idea but now that you have explained it I think the Loctite is the way to go.

Joninct
I am a mechanical engineer by profession and am now 69 and thus have seen a lot of fixes. I dont profess to know more than others with a strong practical bent. What I can do is look at the basic forces involved now that the part is worn and the washer idea is being considered. In my opinion, while the washer will hold the upper part of the tapered stud from moving sideways, it will become a fulcrum or pivot point for the stud portion below the washer to move around and continue to wear.
The loctite product is much more high tech than JB weld which is very similar to an epoxy. I dont feel JB has the compression strength to stand up to the forces first when you cinch down the castellated nut and then when you input steering forces. The tapered nature of the tie rod end joint is like a super wedge and the radially outward forces when the tapered stud moves down as it is tightened are extreme.

Retaining compounds are liquid anaerobic structural adhesives that cure or polymerize when confined without air between close fitting metal surfaces. Retaining compounds are specifically formulated to join cylindrical, unthreaded metal parts together. These adhesives fill the empty space between mating interference fitted parts and cure to chemically unitize the assembly. You need to let the parts sit assembled for 24 hrs for maximum strength./

Dave M7040

 

[Dave_eng]

We are learn on these friendly forums. From those with a problem the rest of us learn just what can go wrong. The many fixes proposed all lie in the back of our minds to possibly be used on another problem.

Now that you have learned the right way and the wrong way to deal with loose and worn and seized tie rod ends you will have new knowledge to share with the newbies. And so it goes on and on....
If the loctite does the job for you, if you keep your eyes open you will soon find another chap who needs just such a product and perhaps you can sell the remainder to him/her.
Dave M7040

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Ah ok I see what you mean. I enjoying learning new things! It can't hurt to try it right? I just wonder if, after spending $50 if I will ever use the bottle again...
The washer idea was suggested by the hardware store guy where I went to buy new castle nuts. It seemed like an ok idea but now that you have explained it I think the Loctite is the way to go.

Do a google search on Loctite 638, it is available in 10 ml bottles, but may not be as fast as Amazon.

 

[Dave_eng]

According to Messicks the hub part is in stock and cost $206.
Worst case scenario you buy a new gear case and learn how to take the existing one apart.
I may have picked the one for the wrong side of the tractor so don't go on my part number.
Having the WSM if you are going to tackle this re and re as there are likely special adjustments to properly mesh the gears and also torque spec's.
Dave M7040

Kubota: CASE FRONT GEAR
Part Number
K2561-15412
Vendor
Kubota

Messick's Price
$206.82
Stock Quantity
1
Weight
10.70 lbs
Days to Order
In stock
Replaces
K2561-15410

 

[Joninct]

Hmmm..$206.82 is actually less than I thought it would be. It's good to know should I decide to go that route. I will google a smaller bottle of the "stuff" and see how that pans out first. I'll let y'all know my findings.
Thanks!

 

[Joninct]

OK I found a small bottle of the Loctite and ordered it. @$20shipped.
I am assuming that I put some in and around the "hole" and then bolt everything together and let it sit for 24hrs?

 

[CountryBumkin]

There are also "tapered sleeve repair kits" available. I don't know which one, if any, fit the Kobota but this may be worth researching more if your locktite fix doesn't hold up. Looks like a 7 degree taper is common in the automotive world for tie-rod ends. Does anyone know what the Kubota taper is?

http://cdn.globalimageserver.com/fetchdocument-rh.aspx?name=advantageplus-advantageplus-spec-sheet

and

http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

 

[Dave_eng]

Joninct
Here are the formal instructions from Loctite:
I would use a good quality brake clean rather than the loctite cleaning solvent. Allow the brake clean to dry completely before starting.
Torque the castellated nut and allow 24 hrs to cure before using.
Dave M7040

Directions for use
For Assembly
1. For best results, clean all surfaces (external and internal) with a Loctite cleaning solvent and allow to dry.

2. For Slip Fitted Assemblies, apply adhesive around the leading edge of the pin and the inside of the collar and use a rotating
motion during assembly to ensure good coverage.