I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences?
I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences?
Im usually not one to disagree, but thin runny cheap grease like all the garages use to lube chassis components arent worth the cardboard its packed in.IMHO,as far as the question of synthetics or conventional,as far as all lubes,it is much more important that you use them regularly that what one you use
I'm not saying don't buy expensive lubes,(my 2004 Toyota has never had anything but synthetic), I'm saying what every you buy,use it regularly.Im usually not one to disagree, but thin runny cheap grease like all the garages use to lube chassis components arent worth the cardboard its packed in.
The any kind heavy duty grease at least gives you a barrier, which is what is its intended purpose.
I prefer to spend the extra dollars to get a decent lubricant, although it being a heavy grease and it harder to pump, its money well spent-down the road.
A couple of questions?I've been using Amsoil synthetic grease, NGLI # 1, for years, now. With its relatively high price ($9.75/tube + shipping), I am looking for a synthetic grease that I can buy local, Any ideas/experiences?
GPOR1CR-CA Case of 10 $92.85+shipping, from amsoil site.A couple of questions?
Which Amsoil grease do you use?
Where do you get it for that price?
Hadda call them today to set up preferred customer account. Price for the case of 10 +the membership was $99.22. The one on fleabay wanted $9.65/tube + $25.00 shipping. I don't think so...I use the NLGI#2 of the same grease. I would suggest you become a dealer just so you can get better prices for your own use. My price on a case of 10 is $68.44 and 4 cases is $270 which makes it $6.75 a tube. No need to go cheap on grease when you can get the best for that price. Only thing you'll have to do is pay membership dues and the price difference on 1 case of grease will more than cover those.
The main thing I use it on is the undercarriage wheels, on the ASV RC-30. It has 24 dust caps, on 24 wheels, that were originally "permanently" lubed with some kind of cheap grease, that separated into oil and wax. After replacing 2 bogey wheels, at a cost of $160.00 per wheel, I drilled each dust cap, welded a 1/4" NF nut on to each, and threaded a zerk into each. I grease them 1 or 2 times a year, now, and have had no further failures...Being in the Bearing Biz I can tell you that its Not recommended to use 100% synthetic on applications where a rubber lip seal is holding the grease in ( Wheel bearing for example) the 100% synthetics done have the petroleum additives it takes to keep the seals pliable. sure you can do it, but the seals wont last as long.
I wonder if that's suppose to apply to every brand of synthetic grease. I've used 100% synthetic for over 30 years on everything including wheel bearings and never had any problems with seals.Being in the Bearing Biz I can tell you that its Not recommended to use 100% synthetic on applications where a rubber lip seal is holding the grease in ( Wheel bearing for example) the 100% synthetics done have the petroleum additives it takes to keep the seals pliable. sure you can do it, but the seals wont last as long.
How did you weld the grease zerk on, TIG, MIG, or JB Weld? I wanted to do this but the ASV dealer said the rear bearing will not get any grease.The main thing I use it on is the undercarriage wheels, on the ASV RC-30. It has 24 dust caps, on 24 wheels, that were originally "permanently" lubed with some kind of cheap grease, that separated into oil and wax. After replacing 2 bogey wheels, at a cost of $160.00 per wheel, I drilled each dust cap, welded a 1/4" NF nut on to each, and threaded a zerk into each. I grease them 1 or 2 times a year, now, and have had no further failures...
How did you weld the grease zerk on, TIG, MIG, or JB Weld? I wanted to do this but the ASV dealer said the rear bearing will not get any grease.
I recommend that you use Amsoil Water Resistant grease, it's made for boat trailer wheel bearings, they are in the water when they load/unload the boat. Also less $ than the current grease you are using.
Travis
The rear bearing gets grease, from the front one. There are no seals between the bearings, just behind the rear one. I took the grease cups out, mounted them in a lathe, drilled the correct sized hole, for the 1/4-28 NF tap, tapped them.
Then I took a bolt, and threaded 2 nuts on it, and threaded it into the dust cap, and locked it down. then I took a mig welder, and welded the nut to the cap. Them caps are thin, the hardest part of the job was filling the blow out holes, cause the only wire I had was .35 and it likes to blow through.
As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...
Ordered the grease, on monday, got it on wednesday. Amsoil is pretty good at shipping...
Thanks DIYDave!The rear bearing gets grease, from the front one. There are no seals between the bearings, just behind the rear one. I took the grease cups out, mounted them in a lathe, drilled the correct sized hole, for the 1/4-28 NF tap, tapped them.
Then I took a bolt, and threaded 2 nuts on it, and threaded it into the dust cap, and locked it down. then I took a mig welder, and welded the nut to the cap. Them caps are thin, the hardest part of the job was filling the blow out holes, cause the only wire I had was .35 and it likes to blow through.
As for the selection of grease, I wanted something that I can also use for the pins and bushings, in the loader arms and attachments. That's why I went with #1 instead of #2...
Ordered the grease, on monday, got it on wednesday. Amsoil is pretty good at shipping...