Box Scraper

[pauly]

Looking for opinions on buying a Landpride box scraper.
I an currently clearing about an acre of scrub brush. I want to be able to remove the short stubby stumps and roots and then level/smooth out the area. The scrub brush area sits next to another acre and a half of grassy rolling terrain. I plan on doing a small MX track in this area and maybe a trail on the rest of the property. Box scraper specs.
BB1260 weight-346 lbs. side wall 3/16 thick, blades are 3/8 thick x 3"
BB1560 weight-428 lbs. side wall 5/16 thick, blades are 1/2 thick x 3"
Weight difference is 82 lbs.
Cost difference is $260.00
After I get the area cleared I don't think that I'll be using that box scraper that much other that maintaining the track and trails... then again???

I also maintain a 1/4 mile long gravel drive way. Currently use a drag and rear blade for that.

Thanks
Paul

 

[ipz2222]

A light box scrape is allmost useless except on soft soil and light gravel. The heavier the better.

 

[85Hokie]

Looking for opinions on buying a Landpride box scraper.
I an currently clearing about an acre of scrub brush. I want to be able to remove the short stubby stumps and roots and then level/smooth out the area. The scrub brush area sits next to another acre and a half of grassy rolling terrain. I plan on doing a small MX track in this area and maybe a trail on the rest of the property. Box scraper specs.
BB1260 weight-346 lbs. side wall 3/16 thick, blades are 3/8 thick x 3"
BB1560 weight-428 lbs. side wall 5/16 thick, blades are 1/2 thick x 3"
Weight difference is 82 lbs.
Cost difference is $260.00
After I get the area cleared I don't think that I'll be using that box scraper that much other that maintaining the track and trails... then again???

I also maintain a 1/4 mile long gravel drive way. Currently use a drag and rear blade for that.

Thanks
Paul

Paul,

you are doing this on your B2650 correct? I would get the BB1560 !!!! I think the extra money is well worth it ! You will get a little more for it if/when you sell it - if you sell it too!

 

[pauly]

Hokie,

Yes I will be using my B2650. I was leaning towards the heavier unit. This helped push me in the right direction!

Thanks Gents

 

[alansz400]

Check Craigs List. I bought mine from there and saved a lot of money. It is a KK but has been great. Put a new yard in, and did some clean up in the horse pasture with it. The cutting edge and sides of the blade are still like new. If you lived closer I would sell you mine.

 

[TripleR]

As noted, for what you intend, weight is your friend so go as heavy as you can and with that combination, you will need quiet a few passes. Our son built a MX track with an 80HP and 10' scraper and was surprised how much time it took.

 

[Fastdonzi]

Do they all come with the Digger/Ripper Teeth (or the provisions for them) or is that extra?? On mine if I rip through tough ground first it makes it more manageable to push/pull around with the Box.. sometimes doing a cross hatch type rip really helps.

 

[coachgeo]

I rented a box blade. Worked good for me cause I only need one once every few years. Granted had to do some searching around to find a place that had one for rent...... and had to drive a bit to get it.... but still even with that was wayyyyyyy cheaper than buying one.

 

[RCW]

A light box scrape is allmost useless except on soft soil and light gravel. The heavier the better.

Pauly - ipz2222 has it right, and I'm glad your going to the heavier unit.

I have 4-foot KK similar to the lighter-duty one your looking at.

Got it used for $300 couple years ago.

For maintaining my short/wide driveway it's fine - especially for the price.

Wouldn't want to tackle your MX track, or 1/4 mile driveway with it.

You made the right choice.

 

[pauly]

Guys, thanks for all the input. The heavier unit is a go. I have not seen any used one's on Craigslist, so it looks like new it will be.
I'll most likely find plenty of use for it after I have some time with it.
I believe in the buy once cry once school of thought.

The driveway is fairly easy to maintain, crushed asphalt/traffic bond so the drag does a good job on that. A little work after a good rain though, it's fairly steep.
The MX track will be kind of small and technical, something for my fat old ass to tear around on. I mean the grand kids.
Never going to grow up!

 

[TheSpoon]

Do they all come with the Digger/Ripper Teeth (or the provisions for them) or is that extra?? On mine if I rip through tough ground first it makes it more manageable to push/pull around with the Box.. sometimes doing a cross hatch type rip really helps.

The scarifiers are technically an option on every new box blade I've seen for sale. They lift up and out of the way when you don't need them though so I think everyone usually gets them. One of those "mandatory options" if you will.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

[ShaunRH]

Spoon is forking it out correctly...

Don't even bother with a Box Blade that doesn't have the scarifers. They let you work compacted surfaces.

The biggest issue with Box Blades is practice. Everyone thinks they are easy to work with but get disappointed with the results. The simple truth is, they take practice, patience and thinking about what you are doing. You have to have nice touch on the controls to get useable results. If something isn't working right for you, change tactics and try again.

Learn to develop the feel for what your tractor is doing level wise and you can grade about anything flat with a BB. I've generally found that the box should be doing exactly what the front wheels are doing and the opposite of the rears. If the fronts rise, bring the box up slowly as well. If it drops, drop the box slowly. If the rears rise, drop the box, if it lowers, raise the box. Eventually this should fill in the lows and clip the highs.

 

[Kingcreek]

Way to go. Heavier is better.
I use mine all the time, bigger unit but I like the extra weight on the back when doing loader work too. Even though I have ballast in rear R4s, the extra 510 pounds out over the back really makes a difference. (Mine is a 6' HD woods)

 

[oldrockfan]

as others have said the ripper teeth are what make the box blade so useful. When I first started digging out a pond with my little Kubota and the 5' box blade... it wasn't doing much at all. Soon as I lowered the rippers... it was like night and day difference. Those 5 rippers do an excellent job of breaking thru park packed dirt and busting roots, etc. Also I totally agree with it taking practice. The thing I had to learn by trial and error was how to adjust the depth according to the sound of the tractor. You can hear when it is getting bogged down and adjust the depth accordingly. Once you get that figured out... the box blade is an amazing worker.

 

[RCW]

... it wasn't doing much at all. Soon as I lowered the rippers... it was like night and day difference.

Also I totally agree with it taking practice.

Another thing that takes some practice is adjusting the length of top link. Shortened gives front edge more bite for digging, longer more neutral for smoothing, etc.

 

[coachgeo]

Another thing that takes some practice is adjusting the length of top link. Shortened gives front edge more bite for digging, longer more neutral for smoothing, etc.

Other threads in here have mentioned that advantage of a hydraulic 3rd link really shines when one does a lot of work with a Box Scraper/Blade just for reasons quoted here.

 

[Ryansweatt2004]

I've got a landpride bb1566 that I use behind my l3901 and I love it. I leave it on probably 90% of the time for pushing stuff around or leveling dirt and gravel. I do find that even it isn't heavy enough to push the rippers into a hard packed gravel or stone roads sometimes. I just got a couple 12 inch square by 3 inch thick steel plates that weigh 122lbs each that I'm going to make into hang on weights for it. It will bring up the weight of the bb1566 from 450lbs to around 700lbs which should help a lot on hard roads.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've got a landpride bb1566 that I use behind my l3901 and I love it. I leave it on probably 90% of the time for pushing stuff around or leveling dirt and gravel. I do find that even it isn't heavy enough to push the rippers into a hard packed gravel or stone roads sometimes. I just got a couple 12 inch square by 3 inch thick steel plates that weigh 122lbs each that I'm going to make into hang on weights for it. It will bring up the weight of the bb1566 from 450lbs to around 700lbs which should help a lot on hard roads.

Keep in mind that when you add that additional weight, you make the implement work as if it is built with that weight, it is not. The structural integrity is not there. So if you do that very often, there is a good chance of the implement failing as in bending or welded joints actually ripping apart.

Just an FYI.

 

[Ryansweatt2004]

Keep in mind that when you add that additional weight, you make the implement work as if it is built with that weight, it is not. The structural integrity is not there. So if you do that very often, there is a good chance of the implement failing as in bending or welded joints actually ripping apart.

Just an FYI.

That's the good thing about being a welder and having the equipment to fix/modify and fabricate as needed. Obviously had I known prior to buying it, I would have just bought a heavier box blade but I've got it and I'm gonna give it a try. On a different note im going to make mounts on the weights to hang them on the front of the tractor as well to aid in front traction when my loader is off.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That's the good thing about being a welder and having the equipment to fix/modify and fabricate as needed. Obviously had I known prior to buying it, I would have just bought a heavier box blade but I've got it and I'm gonna give it a try. On a different note im going to make mounts on the weights to hang them on the front of the tractor as well to aid in front traction when my loader is off.

Additional front weights, as in double. I love doing field work with the loader off.