Grading with Bucket is hard. Any tips?

[CountryBumkin]

Hi, newbie here.
I'm trying to level and grade a small area in my yard with my BX where a shed was removed. The area to level is/was about 12x12, however now I have half the yard involved.

I'm back dragging the bucket, and I seem to making a bigger mess.
Whenever the tractor tires hit a rut the bucket digs in - then I have two ruts. I'm beginning to think this task is not possible with bucket alone.

I also have a 3-point rake attachment that I'm trying. This is doing a little better job as I drive figure-eights over the area. Unfortunately the rake doesn't float so I have the same issue with ruts as above, only not as bad.

Is there a right and wrong way to level with the bucket?

Or maybe this is way they make "graders" and "box blades".

 

[sheepfarmer]

I have only had my tractor with this kind of bucket and blade for a year and have had many of the same problems. When I talked to my friend who does this for a living and can level everything perfectly with his bigger tractor and bucket, he said it was practice practice practice I will look forward to any hints that appear. I have the fewest "oopses" back blading in float and did some practicing out in the back pasture with snow.

 

[85Hokie]

Hi, newbie here.
I'm trying to level and grade a small area in my yard with my BX where a shed was removed. The area to level is/was about 12x12, however now I have half the yard involved.

I'm back dragging the bucket, and I seem to making a bigger mess.
Whenever the tractor tires hit a rut the bucket digs in - then I have two ruts. I'm beginning to think this task is not possible with bucket alone.

I also have a 3-point rake attachment that I'm trying. This is doing a little better job as I drive figure-eights over the area. Unfortunately the rake doesn't float so I have the same issue with ruts as above, only not as bad.

Is there a right and wrong way to level with the bucket?

Or maybe this is way they make "graders" and "box blades".

Mike,

when you are back-dragging - and you do not want to move much dirt - use the float function, this will allow the bucket to ride on top and move a little dirt from one point to the other. Also if you want to move some forward too - roll the cutting edge up a bit, this will make you bucket push some dirt too.

You are right - the tire placement do "determine" the bite of the bucket!

 

[koja]

More info is needed to be much help to you.
What is the ground like ? Clay , sand, gravel, sod?
Is the area you're trying to level lower than the yard ?
Are you using the float position whe n back blading ?

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I'm back dragging the bucket, and I seem to making a bigger mess.
Whenever the tractor tires hit a rut the bucket digs in - then I have two ruts. I'm beginning to think this task is not possible with bucket alone.

If you are dragging the bucket in float it shouldn't dig in. There are also two ways to try dragging it: 1 With the cutting edge down for more aggressive grading or 2 with the cutting edge up for more gentle leveling.
You can also push the bucket, cutting edge up works best, this way you can keep your wheels out of ruts to keep from digging in. When pushing the bucket you can control the aggressiveness of the grading by using or not using float.

I also have a 3-point rake attachment that I'm trying. This is doing a little better job as I drive figure-eights over the area. Unfortunately the rake doesn't float so I have the same issue with ruts as above, only not as bad.

The 3-point hitch is always in float. Any downward cutting by a 3 point implement is only from the weight of the implement or the cutting action of the implement.

Is there a right and wrong way to level with the bucket?

No. You just have to experiment and see what works for your conditions.

Or maybe this is way they make "graders" and "box blades".

A grader or box blade would make this project easier, but would probably be overkill if this is the only use. Some tractor dealers may rent implements, but that may even be overkill for a small project. If you look at graders and box blades, a box blade is more versatile, but would have a longer learning curve.

 

[Tooljunkie]

If tires are making ruts, its a losing battle.
Working from a flat level surface to start from then expand it from there.
I find setting loader height and using only bucket tilt to feather off the high and lows.

 

[CountryBumkin]

More info is needed to be much help to you.
What is the ground like ? Clay , sand, gravel, sod?
Is the area you're trying to level lower than the yard ?
Are you using the float position whe n back blading ?

I call it "Sand" (not beach sand of course, but Florida sand).

I'm not using float with the bucket because that doesn't seem to do anything but "float" over the humps. Maybe a little different angle on the bucket will make the difference.

 

[koja]

I call it "Sand" (not beach sand of course, but Florida sand).

I'm not using float with the bucket because that doesn't seem to do anything but "float" over the humps. Maybe a little different angle on the bucket will make the difference.

Not sure if you have an owners manual or not , but it does a pretty good job on how to use the loader. For hard to level areas try filling your bucket about half full of dirt and use the float position to back drag with the lip of the bucket slightly raised. The added wieght makes a big difference. And no, you won't get it perfect , but will get you close enough that some sort of drag will finish it off perfect. A simple piece of chain link fence pulled behind you does a great job. As well as an old bed spring.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Not sure if you have an owners manual or not , but it does a pretty good job on how to use the loader. For hard to level areas try filling your bucket about half full of dirt and use the float position to back drag with the lip of the bucket slightly raised. The added wieght makes a big difference. And no, you won't get it perfect , but will get you close enough that some sort of drag will finish it off perfect. A simple piece of chain link fence pulled behind you does a great job. As well as an old bed spring.

Great idea. I'll grab a bucket of dirt/sand and see how it goes.

Good thing I don't do this for a living - I'd be broke by now. I probably have six hours on a two hour job. But I can't think of anyplace I'd rather be than on my tractor so I am enjoying myself - even if I'm making a mess.

 

[koja]

Great idea. I'll grab a bucket of dirt/sand and see how it goes.

Good thing I don't do this for a living - I'd be broke by now. I probably have six hours on a two hour job. But I can't think of anyplace I'd rather be than on my tractor so I am enjoying myself - even if I'm making a mess.

Lol, that's what it's all about. Learning what works and what doesn't but having fun along the way.

 

[85Hokie]

Lol, that's what it's all about. Learning what works and what doesn't but having fun along the way.

There is something to be said about working, learning and having fun all in the same seat - aint to many jobs can get all three in there!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Practise makes perfect. Patience is a virtue.
Just take your time.
I use the bucket half full method also.on my driveway when it gets a little hard to shave the high spots. Mind you, the old clunker i have has no down pressure, except what the tilt cylinder can do. But bad geometry makes it a little helpless.

 

[Diydave]

Practice makes perfect, and the smaller in length the area is, the harder it is to get level, with a wheel tractor...

 

[Corney]

I mostly have graded with a skidsteer or a loader.

I spread the material out over the area. Fill the bucket with material, set the cutting so it's flat and push forward. Back blade with the cutting edge flat and the float on. Move over a half bucket and repeat until area is covered. Then I do the same procedure perpendicular to the other approach. Always with the bucket full..

I hope I explained that well?

 

[Corney]

I always start at the low point and carry my grade up. Minimum of 1" over 10', 2" is better so water will go. 1-2% is my goal.

 

[hitechredneck]

.

I also have a 3-point rake attachment that I'm trying. This is doing a little better job as I drive figure-eights over the area. Unfortunately the rake doesn't float so I have the same issue with ruts as above, only not as bad.

The 3-point hitch is always in float. Any downward cutting by a 3 point implement is only from the weight of the implement or the cutting action of the implement.

Is that true? I could swear that on mine, float is at the full down position. If I don't put the lever all the way down, I don't think it's in float.

Position 3. 5 is about where my box blade contacts the ground.

(Talking about the 3 point here.)





Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Is that true? I could swear that on mine, float is at the full down position. If I don't put the lever all the way down, I don't think it's in float.

Position 3. 5 is about where my box blade contacts the ground.

(Talking about the 3 point here.)





Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk

If you have a three point implement on the ground or even above the ground and your rear wheels drop into a rut the implement will float until your rear wheels come out of the rut and the implement returns to the position setting. The 3 point never provides downward force to an implement. If it did you would lose traction.

 

[CountryBumkin]

I may not be using/setting the 3-point properly, but it is not floating. I say that because I assume if it was floating it would be in contact with the ground all the time.

When I use the rake, I lower it to touch the ground, then as I drive around I can see the rake lift off the ground when the front wheel hit a rut, and dig in when the back wheels hit the rut.

Is there a specific way to set the 3-point to float. Mine does not seem to have a float position. I'll pull out the manual and read up on this some more.

 

[85Hokie]

I may not be using/setting the 3-point properly, but it is not floating. I say that because I assume if it was floating it would be in contact with the ground all the time.

When I use the rake, I lower it to touch the ground, then as I drive around I can see the rake lift off the ground when the front wheel hit a rut, and dig in when the back wheels hit the rut.

Is there a specific way to set the 3-point to float. Mine does not seem to have a float position. I'll pull out the manual and read up on this some more.

CB,

if like most all 3 - points ......

take an implement off ......set the lever to a mid point .....then grab a single arm on the 3 point.....can you raise it? The lever - depending if 1/4" or position control sets a "stop" for the down placement. But unless something is different in yours.....you can pry the arm UP.....without a lot of fuss.

When you hit a rut - the weight of the device is usually enough to re-engage the ground.

now if you really want to get deep into some reading --- look up Harry Ferguson's system....... he was a freakin' genius.......

when the implement (typically a plow) hit a hard patch or something, it would automatically raise ......then lower itself back to the original setting!

 

[ShaunRH]

3 points down 'hard' always float, they don't get a choice. They can be stiff on the upswing but that's usually not applicable to actual land operations. It can certainly apply to hand lifting the mechanism though.

The FEL, full forward (down) is float. You'll feel the detent go 'click' and hold the joystick. If the joystick is not being held, you are not in float on the front bucket.

Levelling is something of an art form and knowledge of your tractor. Because our units have their leveling implements either on the front or back, you get exacerbated pivot action that appears to make things worse as you work. If you can anticipate the 'bumps' you can manually make the FEL dig more or less as the moment requires.

Go slowly, as slow as you can get the machine to go, even if you have to throttle it down to near idle. This will give you time to practice on light surface dirt. If you can develop "the touch" with just loose, soft soil no more than an inch or so deep, you can transition it to higher speeds with bigger cuts.

So lots of practice there.

A box blade is far easier to work with but you need to get a feel for where you set the box at to get a smooth surface. If all you do is drop is full down, you'll get a workable surface but it will be subject tot he bumps and jolts of the ground you are running over. Skim off the high spots and let them fill in the low spots. Eventually you'll be pulling soil all the time and then you know you can final level everything.