New to the Kubota L3200, couple questions

[windsolar]

I really appreciate the support I have received the past week in my purchased of a lightly used L3200 (43 hrs, he only plowed his driveway!). I have a few questions as I read the manual, operate the tractor and contemplate a rear SB 64. Only other tractor I owned was a JD M and it was rather basic.

1) Rear Differential. Lock it when and how to properly use it?

2) Am I correct in thinking the SB 64 is the right size snowblower? thinking manual control. I have a 210 foot driveway, plow to out buildings and to the back of the house as I try to keep snow from the back entrance. I am not finding any good deals used so may just buy new. Checked on line and at dealer. Dealer is about $2900. Has anyone plowed this much snow with just the loader?

3) I am at 44 hours. My 50 hour maintenance is coming up. thinking of doing it now as it will be a lot colder in a month. Good idea?

4) One pin on the ROPS is a PINA! I have sprayed WD40 on it, cleaned it up and added a good lube, yet I still have to used a large screwdriver to get it to turn. Any suggestions? I have to drop the bar to get in garage.

Thanks, windsolar!

 

[CaveCreekRay]

1) Rear Differential. Lock it when and how to properly use it?


Its for getting you unstuck. Or pulling when going straight in muddy conditions. If you get in mud, one wheel might turn while the other just sits there. You go nowhere. The diff lock locks both wheels to turn at the same speed. SUPER IMPORTANT: Do not engage with wheels turning!!! Stop the wheels. Take a breath. Mash the lock pedal AND HOLD IT DOWN. Then try to go again using a lower RPM and you should find the beast gets out of the bog. Don't travel at high speeds in DIFF LOCK. Don't try to turn sharply in DIFF LOCK as both tires are turning at the same speed. Should DIFF LOCK stick on, alternate light braking on left and right brakes a couple times or try backing up a foot and then going forward again, and it should release. (Rock the tractor.)

2) snowblower?

Not much use for one here in AZ. A buddy in Ohio has a driveway 1/4 mi long and bought the neat shoes that clip on the bottom of the bucket lip. He has three and pushes snow in FLOAT like gangbusters on gravel without disturbing a single rock. The three shoes shipped ran him like $125.

3) I am at 44 hours. My 50 hour maintenance is coming up. thinking of doing it now as it will be a lot colder in a month. Good idea?

I would! Get it out of the way. I use the same reasoning and get all my oil changes done before summer here.

I write my service events in a log I made that has a photocopy of my service interval in it along with a page for me to jot down what and when I did it. Be sure to zerk your bucket hinges too before winter to help keep water out. Wipe all the excess grease spooge off with WD-40. Keep it clean and it will attract a lot less dust and grime.

4) One pin on the ROPS is a PINA!

Common problem. The best method is to use a tap to clean out the threads. Sometimes during manufacturing they get powder coating in the threads and that "screws up the screwin'."

One technique I have heard (but have not tried) for getting that stuff out is to take a sacrificial hex head bolt with that thread and grind a groove down the bolt at right angle to the threads (almost like a tap). The theory here is the edge of that groove will chip out the powder coating. I would start with a nut on that bolt all the way up at the hex head. Cut the groove and then use the nut to clean up the threads when you remove the nut. Use loads of oil on it. If you can, use a power drill on slow range and run it in and out 5-10 times. You should see the threads loosen up. You may have boogered up your ROPS bolt. You might try a new one if your dealer is handy. Good luck!

 

[windsolar]

Thanks CaveCreekRay!

1) Rear Differential. Lock it when and how to properly use it?


Its for getting you unstuck. Or pulling when going straight in muddy conditions. If you get in mud, one wheel might turn while the other just sits there. You go nowhere. The diff lock locks both wheels to turn at the same speed. SUPER IMPORTANT: Do not engage with wheels turning!!! Stop the wheels. Take a breath. Mash the lock pedal AND HOLD IT DOWN. Then try to go again using a lower RPM and you should find the beast gets out of the bog. Don't travel at high speeds in DIFF LOCK. Don't try to turn sharply in DIFF LOCK as both tires are turning at the same speed. Should DIFF LOCK stick on, alternate light braking on left and right brakes a couple times or try backing up a foot and then going forward again, and it should release. (Rock the tractor.)

2) snowblower?

Not much use for one here in AZ. A buddy in Ohio has a driveway 1/4 mi long and bought the neat shoes that clip on the bottom of the bucket lip. He has three and pushes snow in FLOAT like gangbusters on gravel without disturbing a single rock. The three shoes shipped ran him like $125.

3) I am at 44 hours. My 50 hour maintenance is coming up. thinking of doing it now as it will be a lot colder in a month. Good idea?

I would! Get it out of the way. I use the same reasoning and get all my oil changes done before summer here.

I write my service events in a log I made that has a photocopy of my service interval in it along with a page for me to jot down what and when I did it. Be sure to zerk your bucket hinges too before winter to help keep water out. Wipe all the excess grease spooge off with WD-40. Keep it clean and it will attract a lot less dust and grime.

4) One pin on the ROPS is a PINA!

Common problem. The best method is to use a tap to clean out the threads. Sometimes during manufacturing they get powder coating in the threads and that "screws up the screwin'."

One technique I have heard (but have not tried) for getting that stuff out is to take a sacrificial hex head bolt with that thread and grind a groove down the bolt at right angle to the threads (almost like a tap). The theory here is the edge of that groove will chip out the powder coating. I would start with a nut on that bolt all the way up at the hex head. Cut the groove and then use the nut to clean up the threads when you remove the nut. Use loads of oil on it. If you can, use a power drill on slow range and run it in and out 5-10 times. You should see the threads loosen up. You may have boogered up your ROPS bolt. You might try a new one if your dealer is handy. Good luck!

 

[mdhughes]

windsolar, I have a L3901DT that I have to fold the ROPS down to get in my shed. When I first got the tractor it was hard to turn the bolts on the ROPS, but I was able to loosen them up with a little oil and a lot of use.

Would be nice to have a place to store it without have to put it down and back up when I want to use it.

 

[quazz]

I plowed mountains of snow with just the loader over the last couple of years.

The banks got so high that the loader could no longer dump on top and I had to scoop buckets and drive them down the road to get rid of the snow. A snowblower is much better but the loader works well.
The diff lock I use when stuck and that works great. If it doesn't you are really stuck.

 

[windsolar]

Thanks. Time is critical as I work in an Emergency Rooms and my wife at Clinton correctional (Yes, the one where the guys escaped). I think the SB 64 will be the way to go. Windsolar

I plowed mountains of snow with just the loader over the last couple of years.

The banks got so high that the loader could no longer dump on top and I had to scoop buckets and drive them down the road to get rid of the snow. A snowblower is much better but the loader works well.
The diff lock I use when stuck and that works great. If it doesn't you are really stuck.

 

[windsolar]

Got three of the 4 inch ones, great video! Convinced me. I'll hold on buying a snowblower until I try the loader by itself. I know at some point I'll get one, just not right away.
http://r2manufacturing.com/edge-tamer-2/
Chris

I plowed mountains of snow with just the loader over the last couple of years.

The banks got so high that the loader could no longer dump on top and I had to scoop buckets and drive them down the road to get rid of the snow. A snowblower is much better but the loader works well.
The diff lock I use when stuck and that works great. If it doesn't you are really stuck.

 

[Petro.man]

Buddy seat for M7060
Does anyone know of a buddy seat that is available for a M7060. My daughter is quite a daddy's girl and loves being on the tractor with me. It is a cab model. Thanks for your input

petro man

 

[windsolar]

Got the Edge Tamers ordered. Are they easier to use than the "float" position on the FEL?


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[ShaunRH]

Buddy seat for M7060
Does anyone know of a buddy seat that is available for a M7060. My daughter is quite a daddy's girl and loves being on the tractor with me. It is a cab model. Thanks for your input

petro man

Not quite the thread for this since it deals with an M7060 and not an L series like the original poster is inquiring about. I'm aware you're probably new to the forum, and if so, welcome! You should post it out in the Fabrication/Customization forum as it's own thread so we don't hijack this one!

 

[ShaunRH]

Just a couple of add-ons to what CCRay said:

Diff lock is also useful for loader operations when you need to go straight and traction could use a boost. Steering doesn't work so well with the diff lock on and it's hard on the front tires trying to steer and use 4WD. I've also used it under Box Scraper conditions that need additional traction and going straight is of benefit.

ROPS bolts, spray liberally with Silicone Spray and work those bolts in and out with the ROPS down, you are just exercising the threads. Blow out any goop or garbage that builds up. Stay with Silicone as it dries and does not attract dust.
My L3200 had the same issue yours does. I did this and it worked great. Also exercise the ROPS hinge with the spray and it will fold easier. I have to fold mine to go into it's storage container.

 

[08quadram]

Personally I prefer a blower first, then loader to clean up the asphalt. Bought a 3 point blower a lot cheaper than a front mount. I don't mind turning around. My 4' bucket fills to fast for just using it. Too many trips down the drive to get it all. Drive is 200' long and I don't like piles part way down. Kind of anal when it comes to snow removal. If I only had gravel drive I'd skip the loader except to get areas that I can't get with blower.

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[windsolar]

Thanks. This year I'll use the Edge Tamers. Next yes the blower.


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[cerlawson]

In Wisconsin our snow may be about as you have. I also came from NYS. I'd not invest in a snow blower for what you have there.
It ain't exactly perfect with wind in wrong direction either. I'd not only use the front end loader, but would get a rear blade. It goes faster, can roll the snow off to the side, etc. In my experience with different makes all with a bucket on front, and with driveway 900 feet long, I only use the rear blade many times not using the bucket at all. Great on blacktop. You can do the job with the blade down even on gravel, if it is frozen with minimal moving of gravel. With the first snows, you even can blade with the edge backwards so it doesn't cut in. Works surprisingly well and the only way I plow snow off grassed areas now.

A neighbor had a rear mounted snow blower for Western Wisconsin and, after several seasons, doesn't fire it up for snows much any more after getting a blade for the rear.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I plowed out the parks yard where i used to work. 4 inch snowfall takes all day, and many passes. 6 foot bucket wasnt enough,8 foot would have been much better, perhaps bucket extensions would really speed things up. Also makes getting close to stuff a lot easier.

 

[windsolar]

Score! I picked up a lightly used PUMA SB64 for $950. Loader, 64 inch blower, it's all good! Windsolar

I plowed out the parks yard where i used to work. 4 inch snowfall takes all day, and many passes. 6 foot bucket wasnt enough,8 foot would have been much better, perhaps bucket extensions would really speed things up. Also makes getting close to stuff a lot easier.