Rotella T6 5w-40 syn oil

MizzouTiger

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Hi guys! Getting ready to due the 50 hr service on this 2011 L3200. It had been service by the original owner back in 2012 with 26 hrs at the dealer in Tulsa.

Would it be safe to switch over to synthetic oil at this time or should I stick to a non synthetic oil until the next change?

Thanks in advance!

Bill

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85Hokie

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Hi guys! Getting ready to due the 50 hr service on this 2011 L3200. It had been service by the original owner back in 2012 with 26 hrs at the dealer in Tulsa.

Would it be safe to switch over to synthetic oil at this time or should I stick to a non synthetic oil until the next change?

Thanks in advance!

Bill

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Best thing you could possibly due, never too early or too late.
 

rentthis

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Rotella is a good option. I have only used regular oil in my machines based on price and volume used. I have never had an oil related engine failure. I seldom have over 2000 hours on a machine before I replace it so that probably speaks to that success. If I had one or 2 machines that I used by myself and planned to keep forever, I would treat myself to synthetic oil and grease. I know it's better but not really necessary if proper service intervals are maintained.
 

Bulldog

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Seems like synthetic haters are the ones that never try or use it themselves.

If you don't plan to keep it why even change the oil. I worked with a guy that never changed oil in his 3010. He had over 1500 hrs on it when it was sold and it was running. Look at the time and money saved by not changing oil.
 

William1

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Syn is certainly the best lubricant. It is also the most expensive. If the extra cost is not a concern, they certainly use it.
If you run your machine 20 hours a year, dino is more than adequate. In this case, regular annual changes are much more of a concern than runtime hours. I cringe at the guy with 40 hours on his machine, three years old and the oil never changed because "I am not to the first change interval yet'.
The 'power user' who runs 100's of hours a year, syn is definitely the way to go. You can run safely to manufacturers rec. change intervals with confidence (with some common sense thrown in based on operating conditions).
 

RCW

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That's what I use.

Part of the beauty of a synthetic is the cold temp viscosity. 5w is easier to start on in the cold than the normal 10 or 15 weight of conventional oil.
 

RCW

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Would it be safe to switch over to synthetic oil at this time or should I stick to a non synthetic oil until the next change?
Bill - just so you know, lubricants are a hot topic here. Both motor oil and hydraulic fluids. Synthetic vs. conventional, Kubota vs. other brands.

It does spark some controversy on occasion!!! We all have our convictions, and none of them are incorrect - unless your inclination is not change them at all!! :confused:

Like I said - you made a good choice - go for it! :D

Filters on the other hand - dare I say use Kubota brand ???:eek:
 

Bulldog

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Syn is certainly the best lubricant. It is also the most expensive. If the extra cost is not a concern, they certainly use it.
Need to factor in fuel savings. Synthetic lubricants will lower your fuel consumption and more or less pay for itself in fuel cost alone.
 

MizzouTiger

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Thanks guys for all your input. I will go with the T6 from Shell along with Kubota filters and probably hydraulic fluid too.

T6 isn't all that expensive either for a 5 quart jug from Walmart too. Yeah Amsoil is great but uber expensive for our budget.

Since Coleman Equipment is local to me I will build a relationship with them. I did buy our Landpride finish mower from them too so I'm in their system already.

Thanks again!

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85Hokie

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Need to factor in fuel savings. Synthetic lubricants will lower your fuel consumption and more or less pay for itself in fuel cost alone.
Just another good point, I hate to go out and piss people OFF, but those who think that synthetic is a waste of money.....either refuse to try, or are stuck in the 60's. The only strike against synthetic oil is cost....So go ahead and buy a gallon of regular oil for 12 bucks, or buy the synthetic oil for 24 bucks......and let's forget about that synthetic does not break down, nor lubricate better, nor gets better millage, it starts easier, less wear on ALL moving parts......and those who say,I have never used it, I've never had an engine problem...blah blah...

If they made a synthetic blood, that cost more, but made your blood pressure lower, cleaned out your clogged veins, and supplied your body with more oxygen.....Hell I would NOT buy it either......cost TOO much and my blood has been fine ALL my life.....ok, inject sarcasm here....
 

lugbolt

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I went to school on this stuff.

Basically, oil has different base stock levels. 1 being the lowest, 5 being the highest. Most conventional oils are 1,2. "synthetics" 3-4, rarely 5. Yamaha has a full synthetic oil (base stock 5) that they have used-and tested-in the YZF-R1M. I saw the results on the dyno. They achieved about 5 more HP using the full synthetic oil. The downside is that this high grade oil is about $20/quart, AND it doesn't last long. After doing an oil analysis, it was determined-at least 3 times-that it was breaking down far faster than the conventional semi-synthetic Yamalube 4 10w50 was, which is what, $7 a quart?

I have used all major brands of oil, and all major types. Including Kubota 15w40, which I use in the 2003 F250 pickup (7.3). In the winter I switch to Rotella T6 5w40, because the HUEI injection seems to "like" the lighter oil. When I say "like", I mean it's not as cold natured. Zero MPG improvement. I get the stuff cheaper than most so that is really the only reason I use the T6 over Kubota's 5w40, or anyone else's.

In my drag car, I am finding that Yamalube's full synthetic is a little more consistent as far as MPH and elapsed times are concerned, and honestly a tiny bit faster on the drag strip. But an engine oil analysis was done and it was completely "worn out" by ONE race meet (sheared, vis broken down). I notice a 5 hp increase or decrease on the drag strip becuase I'm bracket racing....where thousandths of a second make a big difference. We went back to Kubota 15w40, as it's cheap, and it's viscosity doesn't break down nearly as quickly. Lost about .02 to .03 second, but we aren't chasing ET or MPH...just trying to stay consistent.

99% of "full synthetic" oils on the market are marketed incorrectly. Meaning Mobil 1, Rotella, etc. Most of the stuff you can buy at parts stores. Brad Penn is a good one, but it's hard to find locally, at least around here.

In a car/truck, yes, perhaps the extra cost of syn could benefit in the long run, say, 150,000 miles of running it. Perhaps it could offset the cost difference in MPG and less frequent oil changes. On a tractor, I doubt there is much difference in cost unless it would be a commercial type equipment that gets used day in and day out. Kind of like comparing 3/4 and 1 ton pickups, gas vs diesel. You pay out the nose for the diesel, pay more for maintenance, upkeep, and repairs....and in the long run they say it pays for itself. It does not, for most average American peiple UNLESS they're using it daily. Diesel 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton pickups are nothing more than a temporary ego boost, considering that a gas burner will do the same thing with less cost to the average user.

Every vehicle I've owned, I've tried syn oil...and twice have I noticed any difference. One being the race car, the other being my F250, as I have already addressed.

And thus, my experience still says that yes, it is a waste of money for 99% of us.
 

Bulldog

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And thus, my experience still says that yes, it is a waste of money for 99% of us.
It's sad to hear you've had such bad experiences with synthetics. Maybe you just haven't tried the right one yet.

After changing my F250 over I gained 4 mpg which more than paid for the extra cost in oil. My F150 gained 5 mpg, I could go on and on but I'll quit here.
 

85Hokie

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And thus, my experience still says that yes, it is a waste of money for 99% of us.
well,

I have been to school too - and taught for 30+ years....and have used MOBIL-1 and AMSOIL for the last 30 years. Boats, Bikes, cars - trucks, hell I would try it on my aching knees if I thought it would help them ....ok....nm...

the facts are simple - 2 + 2 =4 - dont care how you slice it up and dress it up , still comes out to 4

synthetic oil does EVERYTHING better period - and again, argue if you will about need vs want, you can place apple butter in there ifn you wish, but the bottom line is pure and simple:

Everything is better with the synthetic - even if you throw out every single counter point that you are trying to make,

it L U B R I C A T E S better, at ANY temperature....perioD.

it pours better at any temperature,

the base stock that you were mentioning is closer to all the same molecular "sizes" thus is does a much better job of friction fighting.

IF any of these points were bogus - then WHY ARE all major car makers placing this in their new line of cars?

and lets talk about the cost - hell that isnt even a factor - NOW I am talking engine oil changes, at a mere $10 more per gallon, and that isnt on sale, the cost nowhere exceeds what you get, from a simple spreadsheet data -

you change it less often
it slows down wear from start ups
it prevents wear while at running temperatures
it flows a looooot better in a colder climate.
it is going to cost you less to operate your "car" over the long run, there will be less wear - period!!!

there is so much proven data out there, it would take a month to digest it all.

The one aspect of your argument that I will agree with, regular oils are getting better every year, but at some point - the "man" made will still be better than what the dinosaur left behind.

this is a small tidbit of why :

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html