B3200 50 Hour Service: Need advice

cheapcookies

New member
Apr 30, 2012
4
0
0
Central NY
Bought a new B3200 and now it's got 50 hours on it. Due for a service. Oil & filter, I assume. Also fuel filter. What am I missing?

I like Shell Rotella. Rotella T ? Comments? OEM filters or ????

Hydraulic fluid: Change it now?

I also use it in cold weather. Weight of oil should be ...?

Thanks.

-cc
 

CaveCreekRay

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Jul 11, 2014
2,631
104
48
Cave Creek, AZ
CC,

RULE ONE: You can never do "too much" service.
RULE TWO: You can waste a lot of money doing needless service.
RULE THREE: No routine service will cost you dearly down the road.

That said, you can always open up a blog war on tips and techniques because everyone has their druthers.

Before I tell you what I do, let me advise you of something I was mislead about at my dealer: The service interval you need to follow is the one for YOUR machine. Your friendly Kubota Service Writer has a generic Kubota service schedule. It specified HST tranny fluid and filter change at like 50 hours. But, if you look at the schedule in my owner's manual, the first fluid change is 400 hours. Big difference. Big dollars. I'll probably change it early just to get over to synthetic. But, dumping nearly $100 in hydraulic fluid that was essentially brand new didn't make sense to me.

If you are under warranty, I tend to want to use OEM parts and fluids and stick to the OEM service intervals. The one exception I make is oil. I change it every 50 hours. And yes, I am on Rotella 10-40 Synthetic after 200 hours. Oil is the lifeblood of any engine and running dirty oil will wear your engine out prematurely. Diesels are sooty piggies. Watch your oil and it will just start to get sooty and black right around 50-60 hours. Yes, I know I could probably run it the suggested interval of 150 hours but I don't have to.

Definitely change the hydraulic and tranny filters on schedule using the OEM filters. Should a part in either STB (poop the bed) and the dealer finds non-OEM filters on your machine that are not quite like the OEM specs, guess who pays for the repair? Out of warranty? Go for any filter that meets your needs. If yours is a manual transmission, you should be fine but check your Operators Manual to be sure. Transmissions don't suffer the effects of combustion gasses like engine oil does. 80-90 can last for years but I'd go synthetic at the first change.

Hopefully you have been lubing your FEL hinge points every ten or so hours of FEL use. WD-40 helps clean up after lubing and keeps the grease off you.

These machines will usually get through warranty with little help and only routine service per the maintenance schedule. The ones that are still running strong at ten years are the ones that got regular service and TLC. Consider routine maintenance and a wash now and then as money in the bank should you ever decide to trade up to a bigger machine. In the meantime, proper adherence to the service intervals will give you reliability and owner satisfaction.

Oh... and one last tip. :)

When you drop the drain plug on the engine, the oil will quickly slow down to a trickle. If you get the bright idea to pull the oil dip stick out mid-drain, make damned sure your oil catch is positioned correctly! It will come out like a fire hose and go everywhere. Keep cardboard under your machine!

Don't ask me how I know.

Have fun!

Ray
 

RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
9,543
6,011
113
Chenango County, NY
CC - -

Ray nailed it, all of it. :cool:

I'm in the too-much service category, especially with motor oil. I use Rotella Synthetic 5-40/Kubota filter. I change spring and fall, regardless of hours, but it only gets 20 or 30 hours on the oil.

But as Ray said, a good routine service schedule will never cost big money down the road.

That is wise advice that I wish more folks would follow.;);)
 
Last edited:

CaveCreekRay

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Jul 11, 2014
2,631
104
48
Cave Creek, AZ
My poor little tractor was neglected right off the dealer lot.

The original owner ran it 126 hour with zero service. No oil or filter changes. In the process he dropped a mobile home axle off the top of the bucket and smashed the roof, hood, and headlights. A nice guy but, he did this tractor no favors.

Fortunately, the machine is stout and it suffered no long term effects (except for the axle damage and a little paint fading). The way he took care of this machine ate his bank account when I hammered him on the price. With the damaged hood, evidently no one would come to look at the machine. He had it barely nine months and he sold it to me for $9000 less than he had in it.

Ouch.

I got it caught up, rebuilt and repaired and when it went in for major warranty service on the 3pt, the dealer said it was "the cleanest L3800 they had seen in the shop." That made this owner feel pretty good.

Pride of ownership shows. Lack of care does as well. Its your money and your choice.
 

zippyslug31

New member

Equipment
L3901, LA525, BH77, 72" BB, old Ford 22-63 PHD
Jun 27, 2015
82
0
0
Crooked River Ranch, Oregon
The original owner ran it 126 hour with zero service.
Now here's a question: how can you be sure your tractor isn't totally screwed from 126 hours without a service?

My practical brain tells me "oh, it's only 126 hours in a lifetime of use... in the grand scheme of things, realistically this machine is practically new and no real damage was done."
But then this leads me to wonder why everybody drones on about how critical the 50hr service is and how basic PM is key to just about ANY mechanical device.

I'm torn on both of these views.
 

85Hokie

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,845
2,670
113
Bedford - VA
Now here's a question: how can you be sure your tractor isn't totally screwed from 126 hours without a service?

My practical brain tells me "oh, it's only 126 hours in a lifetime of use... in the grand scheme of things, realistically this machine is practically new and no real damage was done."
But then this leads me to wonder why everybody drones on about how critical the 50hr service is and how basic PM is key to just about ANY mechanical device.

I'm torn on both of these views.
the fifty hour service is basically - catch it early in the life......

the engine - ALL the small particles that "float around" when the metal meets metal the first time is caught in the fifty hours......

nothing happen magically at 51 hours..... there is more wear and tear probably at 5 hours than anywhere along the age of the tractor! We all know that startup is were 90% or wear happens!

I can tell you right now - that the engine oil at 50 hours or 200 hours is not damaged one damn bit .........now dirty? perhaps, but "dirty" oil has zero bearing on the effectiveness of the oil.

people change their car oil at 3000 miles, damnedest thing I have ever seen!!! The people who sell oil love it, cause you are buying a cleaner oil than what you just poured out, but the oil has NOT lost it's effectiveness - not yet.

But changing the oil EARLY in a newwwww engine IS essential. YOU want to get all the little stuff out of the oil, and the filter (you hope) caught most of it. After that - the engine can run around for years and not have the same amount of "particles" in it.

Changing oil(s) now days - is more about getting the "stuff" out of the engine as opposed to placing in a newer better oil in.

If there was a machine that we could take our oil out - place it in a centrifuge and some sort of .1 micron filter, hell you could re-use it almost forEVER !

Again - the reason you change your oils, is to get the "particles" that will create grooves and gouges in all the metal to metal places out - as early as possible.

we all know tractors that have the original orange filter on them, 400 hours on the meter, and we just say " what a dumb ass that owner was" ....the cost of fluid change on a new machine is really cheap compared to a sliver of metal running through the nooks and crannies for 100 some hours!

you 126 hours is not gonna be the end of the world, but I would go ahead and change the oil as soon as possible.....
 

CaveCreekRay

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Jul 11, 2014
2,631
104
48
Cave Creek, AZ
Hokie is right.

The oil was probably still doing a fine job. The problem with extended oil use is the package of supplemental "extender" additives that are added to the motor oil. Those don't last as long as the oil does and some of the additives can only do so much. Take acid killers. Once the acid killer changes the PH as much as it can, the engine can suffer acid etching.

Another additive suspends the combustion particles and surrounds them to prevent them from doing damage to the motor by getting them caught in the filter. That only lasts so long and then it gets overwhelmed. After that, small particles start wearing the innards.

My machine lucked out. It saw a ton of use, some of it running the rototiller for extended periods (that seated the rings for sure!) but the oil only sat in the engine for nine months. Yeah, it was a black mess of carbon but, the slippery part was still doing its job. I bet the additive package was just about shot. Though it sat outside its whole life, the engine oil showed no signs of water as it was run enough to dry out the crankcase each run.

Over time, mineral oil has actually been shown to wear down at the molecular level, mostly due to mechanical "shear" under load. Motorcycles are THE worst for this due to the gearboxes, and engine designs, comprised mostly of helical gears (cam drives in sport bikes) along with high horsepower loads. Synthetic makes sure that all the oil molecules are the same and that the oil is comprised of more of them, so losing a few due to wear means you still end up with mineral oil levels of protection by the time the oil is replaced. Oil viscosity changes over use.

One of the big reasons you want to get the oil out at 50 hours as well as swap out the hydraulic filters is to remove any captured metal left over from manufacturing. I saw zero metal when I did the first oil drain and any metal captured by the filter stayed there. Same with the HYD filters.

The head sales guy at my dealership recognized me in for parts one day and asked if I had found a machine. He remembered me looking for a used L3800. I told him what I had found and he asked me what I paid. I told him and he smiled and shook his head saying, "You got one heck of a deal." When I told him the thing hadn't seen a lick of service for the first 126 hours he shook his head and said, "Not an issue. That is not long enough to do any damage in nine months time."

Had my tractor sat for two more years with the same oil and little use, the result might not have been so positive. Today, I can start my tractor up after a week of napping and produces a small puff of grey smoke after a little pre-heat. I burn zero oil in 50 hours. I think the motor survived 126 hours of inattention quite well.

Lucky little machine. And, a lucky owner (ME!).

Ray

PS: For the bikers out there, here is an awesome article on oils: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
Since reading this a decade ago, I switched all my bikes to Mobil 1 and have had zero problems.
 
Last edited:

cheapcookies

New member
Apr 30, 2012
4
0
0
Central NY
Thanks to all for the replies. Appreciated.

Closest Kubota dealer is an hour away from me. OEM filters being preferred, does anybody have an online source they like?

Thanks again.

-Don
 

MizzouTiger

New member

Equipment
L3200HST w/LA524 FEL, Rhino BX66 & RX5, Land Pride FDR1672
Sep 19, 2015
33
0
0
West Central Missouri
Thanks to all for the replies. Appreciated.

Closest Kubota dealer is an hour away from me. OEM filters being preferred, does anybody have an online source they like?

Thanks again.

-Don
Coleman Equipment or Messicks for OEM parts I would say. Maybe others out there. But I'm a noob to orange myself. Been green for about 15 years until last month.[emoji12]

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 

rparkinson

Member
Aug 23, 2012
297
0
16
Northport Maine
Yes stick with OEM filters. I guess there are plenty of good filters out there, but me personally it makes me sleep better. So what if they are more money- who cares- and they probably are not anyway... I just added a bunch to my cart on Messicks, and went to check out but the shipping was KILLER. So, i took a ride to the dealer. Take an afternoon and go to your dealer, buy a couple of each and toss them on the shelf. I changed my hydro fluid out @ 50 with SUDT2. What a difference, esp in cold weather. Worth every penny. Maintenance is cheap. Grease is cheap. Repairs are not... just a thought... and if you go to the dealer it will give you an excuse to try out an excavator... or a skidsteer... or everything... lol... I bet they would toss in the filters if you bought a new digger!