Which implement do I need?

JKS3613

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Equipment
MX5200-FEL, Woods BB72X Cutter, Woods 72" BB
Apr 12, 2015
33
0
6
Zachary, LA
Hello Everyone,
It has been awhile since I posted but my 5200MX now has 110 hours on it and things are going great! So far, all I have done is bush hogging and a little box blade work but this is what I need advice on...I have a 6 acre plot that I eventually plan to build on. It is cut regularly but has never been farmed etc. However, it has developed "rows" over the years from being cut when wet etc., so it is extremely bumpy and uncomfortable to drive or ride on. Since it will still be a couple of years before we build, and there are lots of deer around, I was wanting to disk or plow the whole field to level it, and then just let the pasture grass take over again. I might even plant some deer friendly crop in part of it. My dilemma is which implement would best help me accomplish this? I originally thought a disk harrow was all I needed but several folks have mentioned that they would plow it first. If that is the case, should I get a middle buster, or just a single blade plow? Is there an advantage to either? Thanks in advance for your insight.
 

Diydave

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L2202 tractor, L185f tractor
Oct 31, 2013
1,635
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Gambrills, MD USA
Hello Everyone,
It has been awhile since I posted but my 5200MX now has 110 hours on it and things are going great! So far, all I have done is bush hogging and a little box blade work but this is what I need advice on...I have a 6 acre plot that I eventually plan to build on. It is cut regularly but has never been farmed etc. However, it has developed "rows" over the years from being cut when wet etc., so it is extremely bumpy and uncomfortable to drive or ride on. Since it will still be a couple of years before we build, and there are lots of deer around, I was wanting to disk or plow the whole field to level it, and then just let the pasture grass take over again. I might even plant some deer friendly crop in part of it. My dilemma is which implement would best help me accomplish this? I originally thought a disk harrow was all I needed but several folks have mentioned that they would plow it first. If that is the case, should I get a middle buster, or just a single blade plow? Is there an advantage to either? Thanks in advance for your insight.
A plow and some sort of drag harrow would work wonders, Don't necessarily need a disc to level. I'd plow it, let it rain on it a little, and drag harrow it. A drag can be made from chain link fence, a piece of heavy steel, or 6X6's of wood, with spikes driven through. My grandfather used to rope the horses to a pile of heavy brush...:D:D
 

D2Cat

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What you use will be dependent on a couple of things. How deep are the "rows"? Is there grass on the acreage you want to keep, or are you wanting a different type of grass?

If the "rows" are not ditches like a combine might leave in wet soil, and you don't want to replant the entire field, I'd use a disc or a spring tooth harrow. Go over it to knock off the high ridges. Work the field with the dirt is dry. It'll be a rough ride, but it will even out the ground and save the grass. May have to work the soil perpendicular to the "rows", then come back parallel.

It'd be nice to burn the field off before starting any dirt work.
 

zload

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B2400HSD/47 John Deere Model M
Apr 14, 2015
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FL
A middle buster plow will dig a trench more or less, if you had a pronounced "hill" or "row" it would knock it down and push the dirt to the side. That plow is frequently used to dig/unearth potatoes so that would help visualize what it would do. I think the plow name is strange sounding because we always referred to the middles as where the tractor tires left an imprint and the area where the seed/plants were as the row. So to me it should be a row/hill buster plow:)

Typically if I were leveling an area where row crops had been planted I would use a disc harrow parallel with the rows to help level the area and then use a bottom plow/turn plow to turn it perpendicular to the disking direction which will also help level it and prepare to replant.

If you are looking for just leveling and natural settlement to grade I would probably just disc it starting parallel to the "rows" and then perpendicular repeatedly until you are happy with the result.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sandpoint, ID
Disk or Spring tooth harrow, followed with a spike or chain harrow. ;)
 

ShaunRH

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Yup, harrow for ruts that are not very deep, just 'dents' in the ground. If it's more than a couple inches deep, go for some fast passes with a borrowed 2 bottom plow then harrow to finish. The middle buster is for deeper ripping of compacted soils in prep for plowing for crop planting, you are just smoothing the top. I'd avoid that option.

Now, if you intend on doing this regularly and want a single step option, a tiller is the best soil prep tool you can buy.

By the way, your situation is identical to mine, I could've written that first post. I'm jealous you have a huge ol' M series unit on a small plot like that. I could only afford a small L series unit! Major jealous here! :D
 

boz1989

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B2910 fel 60 mmm, Land Pride rb1572
Jun 10, 2015
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18
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Portland, MI
If you think it has too much compaction, you could use a sub soiler first, then a disk to level it. The sub soiler might help with drainage.
 

cerlawson

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One pass with a PTO powered rototiller set shallowwill save a lot of time that other methods require.
 

JKS3613

Member

Equipment
MX5200-FEL, Woods BB72X Cutter, Woods 72" BB
Apr 12, 2015
33
0
6
Zachary, LA
Thanks everyone for the wonderful and informative replies! I am sorry that I am just now responding, but right after I posted my question I had a really bad flare up of diverticulitis and I have been in bed for the last 6 days! Up and about today so things are finally on the mend!

Now, back to the subject, I believe, based on what everyone has said, that my best course of action will be to get a good plow first, turn it over good, then either a disk or tiller to chop it up and level it. My old neighbor had a 4' Woods tiller that was the cat's meow so I'm kind of leaning that direction. A disk would be nice to have, but I wonder if I need it if I plow first? Anyway, thanks again for all of your help and I'll post an update when I pull the trigger!
 

JKS3613

Member

Equipment
MX5200-FEL, Woods BB72X Cutter, Woods 72" BB
Apr 12, 2015
33
0
6
Zachary, LA
By the way, your situation is identical to mine, I could've written that first post. I'm jealous you have a huge ol' M series unit on a small plot like that. I could only afford a small L series unit! Major jealous here! :D
Ha, Thanks Shaun, but I also have another 10 acres attached to it that I cut almost weekly so the tractor gets a pretty good workout just cutting grass! I absolutely love it though and it hasn't missed a lick yet! (Of course, I only have 110 or so hours on it now but I add to that every chance I get! lol
 

notnew2diy

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Jul 15, 2014
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McHenry county, Il.
Thanks everyone for the wonderful and informative replies! I am sorry that I am just now responding, but right after I posted my question I had a really bad flare up of diverticulitis and I have been in bed for the last 6 days! Up and about today so things are finally on the mend!

Now, back to the subject, I believe, based on what everyone has said, that my best course of action will be to get a good plow first, turn it over good, then either a disk or tiller to chop it up and level it. My old neighbor had a 4' Woods tiller that was the cat's meow so I'm kind of leaning that direction. A disk would be nice to have, but I wonder if I need it if I plow first? Anyway, thanks again for all of your help and I'll post an update when I pull the trigger!
My wife and middle son have diverticulitis on occasions. I wish that on no one.

There are variables involved that only you will know....future implement needs, long term plans and such like that. I have clay, some heavy, some loamy. I have no idea soil type in your area. I bought a tiller, maybe a disk is more suited for your needs.

If it was me, I'd get or have someone use a bottom plow, turn that grass trash upside down. Wait a bit, then use a tiller or disk and drags.

Few years back, my 3 acre field was used as a parking lot for my xmas tree farm neighbor. I had a local farmer use a chisel plow to ruff it up. Spring I used my tiller, made 3 passes. With the clay, it's still bumpy but I guess that is relative(grin). Hindsight...I should have waited for the spring and had the guy turn it over. Might have had less weeds.

HTH...don t. ....
 

D2Cat

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If you are going to turn the soil over with a plow, do it in the fall. Let the winter freezing and thawing break down the clumps. Till it in the spring to your satisfaction. If weeds are a problem, use RoundUp or similar product a couple of weeks before planting a seed.
 

JKS3613

Member

Equipment
MX5200-FEL, Woods BB72X Cutter, Woods 72" BB
Apr 12, 2015
33
0
6
Zachary, LA
I went ahead and bought a 14" I single bottom plow from TSC and boy this thing is amazing. I have a very heavy clay based soil and so when the plow is buried good it really takes all 52 hp to pull! In fact, I have to throttle down to about 2100 so that it will bog down instead of break the shear bolt. (I broke 3 before I figured that out lol) I also ordered a 6' King Kutter reverse time tiller so between the two, I think I will easily be able to accomplish my goals. Sure is a good feeling to feel that tractor pulling hard on the plow! Headed out for more fun right now, in fact!!


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Diydave

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L2202 tractor, L185f tractor
Oct 31, 2013
1,635
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Gambrills, MD USA
I went ahead and bought a 14" I single bottom plow from TSC and boy this thing is amazing. I have a very heavy clay based soil and so when the plow is buried good it really takes all 52 hp to pull! In fact, I have to throttle down to about 2100 so that it will bog down instead of break the shear bolt. (I broke 3 before I figured that out lol) I also ordered a 6' King Kutter reverse time tiller so between the two, I think I will easily be able to accomplish my goals. Sure is a good feeling to feel that tractor pulling hard on the plow! Headed out for more fun right now, in fact!!


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Does that reverse time tiller move faster than the speed of light? JK. LOL...:D
 

ShaunBlake

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I went ahead and bought a 14" I single bottom plow from TSC and boy this thing is amazing. I have a very heavy clay based soil and so when the plow is buried good it really takes all 52 hp to pull! In fact, I have to throttle down to about 2100 so that it will bog down instead of break the shear bolt...
What?!! Did you get that clay trucked in from Texas? You're supposed to have nothing but sandy loam down there!

Glad you've found a solution, and the throttle position to make it work. Please keep us updated on your progress.
 

boz1989

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B2910 fel 60 mmm, Land Pride rb1572
Jun 10, 2015
269
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18
54
Portland, MI
52 hp on a single bottom plow is a lot of hp. I would be careful of the speed. If you are working the tractor, you might twist the plow instead of shearing the shear bolt. I think my dad always said 15-30 hp per bottom or subsoiler. You will be fine, just don't push it too hard.
 

zload

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B2400HSD/47 John Deere Model M
Apr 14, 2015
91
1
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FL
I was going to point out that you typically don't want to dig to china with that bottom plow as you want to keep the top soil at the top for planting purposes i.e. you really just want to turn the top soil over but if it is all clay I don't guess it matters... I usually start hitting "yeller" dirt and some clay at about 6" so usually not going deeper than that for gardening. 52 horses on a 14" single bottom plow :eek:
 

JKS3613

Member

Equipment
MX5200-FEL, Woods BB72X Cutter, Woods 72" BB
Apr 12, 2015
33
0
6
Zachary, LA
Good point! Thanks again everyone! I'll update later in the week when my time traveling tiller arrives! Lol


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