L3450 PTO Clutch

[bcolwell]

I have been looking for some time now and I cannot find it.

I have a L3450, the gears grind a little when I shift the PTO to 540 RPM. I have wanted to adjust the clutch ever since I first acquired this machine.

The manual say to remove the cover on the right side of the flywheel housing. I cannot find this cover. I have removed the sheet metal from around the steering wheel all the way down to the floor, I do not see it.

Can some one give me a hint?

Boyde

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First, is it a 2 stage clutch?
If it's a 2 stage then it's adjustable, if it's single stage then it's not adjustable.

The cover is a bit elusive as it looks like a pipe connection, when in fact it's just a vent.

 

[bcolwell]

It is a dual stage. I did find that pipe. I have a cap on this tractor and it hides things. I just recently spotted what looked like a cover, but under further inspection I discovered a pipe coming out of it, so figured that could not be it.

If that is it, I now need to figure out how to get at it, or take the whole cap off.

Thanks, I am a step closer.

Boyde

 

[rbargeron]

Hi Boyde I thought I'd offer some related experience. I have a L3250 that is very nearly the same tractor. Mine has a Kubota loader and the right side loader frame bracket covers the clutch adjustment window. related post here. If your L3450 has a loader it is likely the same. If your "cap" attaches there too it may need to move to get at the adjustment.

 

[bcolwell]

I am in trouble again.

I found that elusive cover that looks like a pipe connection, I got everything removed so that I can get at it. I removed the cover.

There is no adjustment bolt in there. Is the adjustment bolt suppose to be visible right away or do I have to move something?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You will have to turn the motor for the bolts to line up with the window.

 

[bcolwell]

OK, I'll try that. How many bolts are there to adjust? I am seeing posts suggesting that there might be 6? The manual for the L3450 only talks about one.

Thanks
Boyde

 

[bcolwell]

I think I am making some head way.

I believe, please correct me if I am wrong, that the cover for the dual staage PTO adjustment is farther forward from that cover with the pipe. The hole, that the cover with the pipe covers, I can see a number of hex bolt heads, no square head bolt nor lock nut.

However if I look real close , trying to see behind the loader frame, I think I can see another panel held on with 4 bolts. The loader centre sub frame seems to bolt to or through this panel.

I am going to try and figure out how to get this loader off.

The loader is a LA650, if anyone has a manual or some hints as to how to get this particular model off i would appreciate any suggestions.

Regards
Boyde

 

[bcolwell]

Hurray, I have it in view. I have the first adjustment bolt in view. It is actually marked with a one.

It is a cover just in front of that cover with the pipe in it. The loader sub frame uses the four holes of the cover to bolt to.

I learned how the loader detaches. It uses the hydraulics to lift the towers out of their sockets, the towers are too heavy to lift by hand. The legs attach to the bucket and when you tilt the bucket the towers lift out.

Mine was more complicated because it has a cab on it and the hydraulic valves are attached to the tower of the loader, but the valves are inside the cab. had to detach the valves from the loader. I just lifted the towers up so that they are out of the way, I did not back away from the loader.

The loader sub frame caused me a concern. I thought it would swing out of the way, if I detached the bolts, but low and behold there is a long shaft running to the rear axle. There are two bolts back there, one can be seen the other is hidden.

OK, I tried lifting one rear wheel off the ground and putting it in high gear. I cannot turn the motor, too much compression. I can only turn the motor using the starter.

I am having a rest now, will tackle the adjustment tomorrow, i am old and retired so I can take my time.

Any hints as to how I can turn the motor at a more controlled rate?

Thanks for sharing.

boyde

 

[rbargeron]

In 2wd with the two shifters in high gear and high range (4th high) the engine should turn by turning a lifted rear tire. There are three adjustment bolts. Mark each as you go.

 

[bcolwell]

The rear tire will not move. I have one rear tire lifted. The high/low range is in high range. The transmission is in 4th. The forward/reverse is in forward. The 2wd/4wd is in 2wd. That sucker will not turn.

What am I not doing?

It would be easier if I could turn that motor by hand.

Regards
Boyde

 

[rbargeron]

Any chance the brake on that side is dragging - or differential lock engaged? Check by lifting the other side? or both?

 

[bcolwell]

I have just adjusted #1, and have moved the flywheel to the #2 adjustment bolt.

I do not know what is locking up the wheel, I have thought that maybe if I lifted the other wheel, maybe I will just because I am curious.

I found another way. the motor turns quite easily. I just put a screw driver in the hole and pried the wheel around until the next bolt appears. It helps if the cover with the pipe is also off, it provides another place to pry.

One down two to go. Awkward position the old back gets tired.

Boyde

 

[rbargeron]

Good for you - there's always another way a sharp eye will find. Glad you prevailed!

As we get older (with backs and knees acting up) we need to work a little smarter if possible. Right now I'm building a ground-mount for a PV array (10kw) - the rack is about 16' high and 40 ft long made of 3" galv pipe. That stuff is too heavy to manhandle to my drill press so I lay the pieces in my pickup bed, back into my shop's lift bay, and raise the whole truck till the pipes are at tool table height where they'll slide under the drill. My orange rigs are coming in handy too. Keep us posted about your clutch job - take care, Dick B

 

[bcolwell]

I got a good chuckle out of your description of lifting the whole truck to the drill press level. My wife had a good laugh too. My sons will appreciate your ingenuity.

I have all three bolts adjusted. Fired the tractor up and tested the clutch, it seems to be better than it was, no grinding, seems smother. Of course before i started it did not grind every time.

When ever I do any work on my old Kubota any place that is showing rust or chipped paint,, I dig out a can of Kubota orange rust paint and slap on some to cover the rust areas, not looking for pretty, just preservation, besides once it gets dusty who can see the drips.

Waiting for that paint to dry before putting it all back together. I anticipate some trouble with getting the loader sub frame back in place. I swung it up just after I first detached it and the holes did not line up exactly, will need some coaxing.

Getting there.

Regards
Boyde

 

[rbargeron]

The key (as I'm sure you know) is starting every bolt but just one or two turns in, lining up with a tapered pin or maybe a big #3 Philips screwdriver. Kubota used a lot of fine threads in the main castings. The dimensional control wasn't too good on US made loaders so there are a lot of surprises when trying to repeat crude initial assembly, often done in dealer's yards by enthusiastic if clueless trainees. The BF550 loader on my L3250 had metric AND inch bolt sizes holding it on, some side-by-side .

 

[Daren Todd]

The key (as I'm sure you know) is starting every bolt but just one or two turns in, lining up with a tapered pin or maybe a big #3 Philips screwdriver. Kubota used a lot of fine threads in the main castings. The dimensional control wasn't too good on US made loaders so there are a lot of surprises when trying to repeat crude initial assembly, often done in dealer's yards by enthusiastic if clueless trainees. The BF550 loader on my L3250 had metric AND inch bolt sizes holding it on, some side-by-side .

We're they different socket sizes? That's usually my biggest pet peeve when working on something. Someone gets creative or uses a mix of standard and metric, plus standard duty and heavy duty nuts. And then you end up needing three different wrench and socket combos to take the bloody thing apart

 

[bcolwell]

Done.

It took some coaxing and some persuading, but everything eventually went back together. I learned a lot from this endeavour, next time it will be a piece of cake.

Thanks for all your help and advice, it is appreciated.

Boyde

 

[bcolwell]

I am back, with the same problem.
First to back track. I eventually got the loader frame moved out of the way, and I adjusted the three nuts, as per the manual.
Put it all back together and the PTO shifted without grinding, no implements attached.

Later, with the snow blower attached, sometimes it would grind, seemed to be after the tractor was warmed up. I noticed that even with the pedal down the PTO shaft would slowly turn.

Anyway this is the summer, I have the bush hog attached. It grinds when I engage the PTO. After I used it for awhile I disengaged it and went for a coffee. Came back and i could not get the PTO engaged, eventually I forced it.

Is there any way to get more travel, for the second stage, from the clutch pedal?