Fuel Tank Rust

[jfnewell1965]

All,

I have read what posts I could about cleaning a fuel tank out that has rust, but none of the posts cover my questions/concerns.

My tank has rust in it.

I used vinegar (found this tip somewhere), and while it seemed to do fine, got any gunk out, and cleared a bit of debri, my tank is still not what I would call "rust free".

I think I would call it "Pretty clean, with surface rust still visible inside.

I guess I need to know what I am shooting for. Do I want.....

1. As clean as possible, and run a filter?
2. 100% Clean and nothing less?
3. Professionally cleaned?
4. Something else?

I just don't see without doing something else, that it will get much cleaner.

Any ideas, input, suggestions?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Bulldog]

I had a liner put in a tank with rust problems. The motor cycle shop I use did mine and it worked great for years.

 

[coachgeo]

https://www.google.com/search?q=Fue...l5.6078j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8

I've not seen any lately but a search in here might find you a thread or three that has already covered this common issue.

Por 15 is pretty popular tank repair product. It is one though where if you cut corners it won't work well.

Also youtube is full of rusty fuel tank repair DIY videos

A chopper building motorycle shop (not as much a store front dealer like shop) will most likely have the know how to do it right as bull dog suggest.

 

[ShaunRH]

Rusty tanks are a pain and usually because of a lot of moisture getting into them.

You can line them or even 'paint' them with special paints meant for the task, but if you ask me, that's just another form of a liner. You can also modify a rubber bladder style tank to go inside of a shot metal one, but that's a real pain.

Why these babies aren't made of stainless steel I have no idea.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Vinegar, 50 1/2" hex nuts and shake the crap out of it. That gets it quite clean. I strapped an atv tank to wheel of kubota and let it idle in gear with wheels off ground. Cleaned it up nice.

I still vote for coating tank,used por 15 kit also.

 

[Stubbyie]

A quality commercial sand blaster can clean the tank internal(s) better than anything. May do best in a cabinet blaster with a sacrificial 90-degree nozzle.

If you're inclined, a hot dip chemical bath will also work, followed by absolutely thorough rinsing, even if the shop says it did too. Think radiator repair shop dip-tank.

Acetic acid at extremely low concentration as in 'normal household' vinegar is a weak acid that will neutralize relatively quickly, not truly passivate the metal leaving behind oxides (rust), and not accomplish much more than hot water will.

Poke around on antique car restoration web sites ('Eastwood' if my memory is correct); they've got all sorts of fuel tank rust-proofing and repair solutions. Must emphasize that directions must be painstakingly followed exactly and precisely or failure will result.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[D2Cat]

Tooljunkie is right on.

I've cleaned fuel tanks by putting a qt. of rock (from the driveway) in a 2 gal. tank, wiring the tanks to the rear lawnmower wheel and mow the yard. Dump, clean with water. Use product like POR15 to seal.

Go to YouTube and look up POR15 and you'll probably find more information then you can absorb.

 

[Tooljunkie]

As mentioned, instructins must be followed to the letter. Eastwood has a great product too. Make sure its compatable for the fuel you intend on using.

 

[Lil Foot]

To clean motorcycle tanks we used to use vinegar & about 1000 BBs, then strap the tank to a paint shaker. Came out spotless & shiny- then coat with one of the tank sealants mentioned above.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Go to Home depot get some ZEP calcium lime and rust remover, pour it in the tank day later rinse tank with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat tank with tank protector.

 

[jfnewell1965]

All,

Thanks for all the responses.

I have tried vinegar, I am currently trying Evapo-Rust, and I am willing to try others.

Again, my tank is what I would call medium surface rust....probably much better now after all the soaking.

I priced a new tank from Kubota; $805.00

I found this professional system http://www.gastankrenu.com/ which my closest dealer has a minimum of $350.00.

So here is a question.....

What if I get it as clean as I can, and don't do anything else? What if I just clean it as well as I can, then use it with a filter in place?

I am sure with the gazillions of tractors running out there, a majority of them have to have some level of rust in their tank.

Am I killing myself chasing perfection, or is this a huge deal, and I just don't realize it?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Tooljunkie]

Evapo rust will treat the metal somewhat,leave it in for a while. maybe roll some atf around in there before you install it. Rust is from moisture, so keeping tank full and machine somewhat out of the wet weather may help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just seal the tank:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N2392_-1_-1&pt=N2392&ppt=C0126

http://www.tcpglobal.com/POR-49216_...s - tcp&utm_content=all+products#.VfJpIZqFOHs

 

[jfnewell1965]

OK......

I have some ZEP calcium lime and rust remover.....I have removed the sending unit....I have made some plugs for all the holes......I dumped about 50 3/8 nuts in the tank, and a handful of larger bolts....I have made this contraption (see pictures) out of a Harbor Freight tubing roller wheel, some 2x4s, a few bungee cords, and some tie downs.

I am spinning this as much as I can. I would love to put it in the dryer, but the wife would kill me.

When I have done this a few times, then a water rinse, an acetone rinse, dry it like crazy, and then I will seal it.

More to follow....

 

[D2Cat]

jfnewell1965, I'm sure glad you're not working on the space shuttle!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Dryer! Why didnt i think of that??
Stuff a bunch of blankets around it and let er rip!just use the low or no heat cycle.

 

[coachgeo]

jfnewell1965, I'm sure glad you're not working on the space shuttle!

Welll...... he might be needed at ISS. It's getting old and needs McGyver-ing often it appears

 

[jfnewell1965]

OK......

I had bought two gallons of the ZEP calcium lime and rust remover. I ran 1/2 gallon batches, with about an hour of turning on each one...well, maybe a 1/2 hour of turning on each one, and a 1/2 hour of soak on each one....So a total of 4 hours of soaking, and during that four hours, two hours of turning and tumbling the bolts, screws, nuts, etc.

First off, the ZEP calcium lime and rust remover is freakin great stuff. It worked way better than the vinegar or Evapo-Rust...however, I didn't have bolts, nuts, and screws in with the vinegar or Evapo-Rust, so maybe that is what made the difference.....in any case, if I were to do it again, I would definitely go with ZEP calcium lime and rust remover and a bunch of bolts, screws, nuts, etc.

The end result is that the bottom of the tank is 100% bare metal....the sides (left and right)(the direction of the rotation) are maybe 50% rust free, but it is VERY smooth/light rust.

The other sides (Front and Back) are not as good. They are WAY better than before I started, just not what I would call great.

So.....I guess I am VERY impressed with the change in the condition of the inside of the tank, but I am not impressed enough to think that a sealer is going to last very well. Rust is a pain in the butt, but I hear sealer failure is a much worse problem.

This is the plan, and if you think I am screwing up, please tell me so....

I am going to run it as it is for now. All the flakes are gone, what is left is definitely just surface rust. I am going to fight further rust be keeping the tank topped off, and not let moisture build up like I am sure has happened in the past.

In a year or so, I am going to pull the tank, and do an inspection. If it has maintained its rust free status, then all is well. If it has not done well, and looks all rusty again, I am going to bite the bullet, bring it to the professional tank restoration place, and pay the $350.

Good plan? OK plan? Bad plan?

Please let me know your opinion.

North Idaho Wolfman (and others)...I am not ignoring your advice, but I just don't think the tank is as pristine as the sealers imply it needs to be for success.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Oh no offence at all, one must make those types of calls from where one is sitting, and your probably right on the money with what you think is best.

I'm glad you liked the ZEP calcium, lime and rust remover, I've had some excellent results from it.

Try the ZEP purple cleaner if you have anything with a oil / grease removal issue, I use it all the time, just keep it off of finish paint (although it will clean up oxidized paint) and keep it away from shinny aluminum.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

J,

I bought a brand new Honda 2-stroke 250 Elsinore in college. After college it sat for many years and I ended up with tank rust. I did a tank coating on it and within a few years I noticed the coating was pulling away and I had fuel in contact with the metal tank again. Eventually it completely de-bonded and I pulled out most of the coating, nearly intact in the form of a plastic "bag."

Maybe they have improved the lining material. I have new Gerry cans made in 2003 that have a reg/orange spray lining in them that, thus far, has remained intact and inert, even with alcohol in the fuel. My experience with coatings has not been the best. If the coating shop won't give you a two or three year warranty, I wouldn't waste my time and money.

One thought is to apply the acid treatment which stops the rust and transforms it to something else. Not sure how these hold up under submersion in fuel but it might be worth a call to the manufacturer.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CDG/?tag=finishingcominc

Good luck!

Ray