L2950 Temp gauge reading

[knightgang]

I have been out with my new to me L2950 brush hogging my land for my upcoming house build. After about 2 hours of constant working, I notice the temp gauge is up there pretty good. It is not in the red indicating overheating, but it is probably 2 needle widths below it. Once it reaches that temp, it never gets any hotter.

Should I be concerned? It seems to run just fine. It has plenty of coolant it it, oil is full, everything checks out. I do not have an inferred thermometer to see just what the temp is. I am trying to determine what degree temp it is at when the gauge reads that high.

Any ideas on actual temp or experiences?

Thanks

 

[rentthis]

You should be concerned because you don't have much difference between hot and too hot. Have you checked the radiator and screen. They likely need cleaning. It appears that it's blocked just enough to maintain the elevated temp. Look through the radiator closely. If you can't see light, air can't pass through. If it isn't the radiator, stop until you figure out what's going on. That situation is close to costing you an engine.

 

[Diydave]

Sam's club has IR thermometers, About $20. I think Lowe's has them for $18.00. Worth every penny...

 

[Bulldog]

My L3000 did the same thing when it was new. The cooling system on all the Kubotas I've been around is just barely big enough in the best conditions. Cleaning the front of the radiator is a constant battle. The best thing I did to cure my overheating problem was changing oil.

 

[knightgang]

What oil did you change to? Or are you referring to changing oil often?


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[Dave_eng]

I am with diydave.
You really don't know what the actual temperature is.
With an IR thermometer you will at least have real numbers.
Perhaps the tractor has a high temperature thermostat and the4 engine is running at the thermostat limit.
Certainly being certain the rad is free of debris is always prudent.
Dave M7040

 

[Bulldog]

What oil did you change to? Or are you referring to changing oil often?


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I changed it over to Amsoil 5w30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel. I change mine once a year and don't really worry about the hrs.

Some will say that's crap and oil won't make a difference but I wouldn't have told you anything if it hadn't helped me in the same situation. I was very unhappy with my tractor having to pull the side panels off every 30 minutes to clean the grill / screen. The oil made enough difference that it may heat up some but I've never had to quit working to clean the screen as long as it was clean when I started.

 

[knightgang]

I have two diesel trucks and quite a stockpile of Rotella T6 5W-40 Diesel Oil. I will change over to that and see what difference it makes. I just bought the tractor 2 1/2 weeks ago, so I have no idea what is in it.

Is there a way to add extra cooling capacity to one of these tractors? Oil cooler up front, or auxiliary radiator for more coolant capacity and cooling area?

 

[85Hokie]

Bulldog,

As you know and pointed out ....certain oils make a hellva difference!!! No better point that showing how friction - or LACK there of, keeps things cooler !!!

Great oil is worth the price .......all day - everyday!

 

[Jim L.]

Knightgang, the key is that it is new to you. And it may have been run hard and put up wet.

Once you verify that the temperature gauge is really working right, then I would suggest that you go over the cooling system.

The likely cause is not enough air flow through the fins. If you have to pull the radiator, then do so and make sure all is clean outside.

Also look for any rust or discoloration from the coolant by drawing off a little through the drain. With winter coming you should replace that anyway. If using concentrated antifreeze, then distilled water, not tap.

Your cap and thermostat may be OK. Simple to replace if need be.

Hoses not collapsing. Fan belt tight and not cracked or glazed.

Running hot is not good as it ages components quickly. And crud in the coolant will take out a water pump.

You'll be dollars ahead to take the time now to remedy any shortcomings in past maintenance.

 

[knightgang]

I will inspect the radiator good before the next use. Just might pull it. After about 10 hours of us running it, there is no visual sign of rust in the coolant looking in at the cap. It also is not losing coolant anywhere.

Fan belt looks new and hoses healthy, not cracked or damaged.

We have been bush hogging an area that was logged 20 years ago and not touched since. Running the RPM almost wide open (to the mark on the tach marked 540 pto) with low in 540 and using low 2&3 gears pulling a 5' kodiack rotary mower.

Are we working it to hard, or just in need of some maintenance.


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[Bulldog]

It has plenty of coolant

Keep this in mind, although anti-freeze doesn't freeze it does loose it's ability to dissipate heat. It may be worth your while to drain and flush the radiator then install fresh coolant. Normal anti-freeze needs to be serviced every two years to maintain peak performance.

 

[Jim L.]

Possible you're pushing hard with 26 HP off the PTO. Don't know how thick you're going thru.

The fact that the temp is steady says that the cooling system sheds heat, but not enough to prevent temperature rise. If the liquid side of the heat exchanger is OK, then it must be on the air side. Or could be both.

The radiator can collect lots of stuff to choke off the air flow. Unless there is a stuck thermostat, the air flow is a really big factor. Just hosing it will not clean out a neglected radiator.

 

[knightgang]

Good to know. Radiator inspection on the list, drain and service and a thermostat just in case the problem is that it don't have one. I assumed everything in working order and if the thermostat is missing, that could be cause for the temp rise. Will be checking this out early next week.


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[100 td]

Drain a pint of fluid from the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator into a clean white bucket, do this with the radiator cap off to allow the quickest flow. This should allow you to see if there is any crud in the bottom tank.
The main things that happens to coolant is the additive package gets used up, this is the anti corrosive package. If the system is clean and has the correct amount of glycol, then changing it won't generally improve your cooling system, but what it will do, is maintain your cooling system so no corrosion takes place in your engine. Since you have just purchased, it's up to you whether you change all fluids and filters so you know where you are at.
Does it have an overflow bottle with a cap, if it does, remove the radiator cap in the morning and check there is no air space in the radiator, as the overflow bottle should have allowed coolant to go back to the radiator when it cooled down. Check to ensure the overflow bottle has the correct level in the morning, and that the pickup tube is attacked to the cap of the overflow bottle.
Ensure you don't have any shutters installed in front of the radiator. Even though the radiator looks clean, hose it out and blow out with air to try to remove any buildup of dust or fibre.
Check you engine sump is clean and free of mud, the engine dissipates heat thru the sump and if it is covered then the temps will rise.
If and when you do change your coolant, pull your thermostat at the same time and using a thermometer check that it opens at the correct temperature, and that it opens fully to specifications.
EDIT: Crikey I'm a slow typist, 2 more posts in while I typed this one!

 

[100 td]

And of course don't forget the basics, that the belt is clean and tight!

 

[SCPOret]

I have been out with my new to me L2950 brush hogging my land for my upcoming house build. After about 2 hours of constant working, I notice the temp gauge is up there pretty good. It is not in the red indicating overheating, but it is probably 2 needle widths below it. Once it reaches that temp, it never gets any hotter.

Should I be concerned? It seems to run just fine. It has plenty of coolant it it, oil is full, everything checks out. I do not have an inferred thermometer to see just what the temp is. I am trying to determine what degree temp it is at when the gauge reads that high.

Any ideas on actual temp or experiences?

Thanks

first thing to check is the radiator screen - slide it out and clean it. most Kubota's tend to run on the warm side. If an oil change is due switch to Rotella or Delo 400 15-40. Getting an IR thermometer will give you peace of mind but she's probably not running hot. The stock thermostat is set at 82 deg C (179.6F)