Hooking up 3PT implements..........HELP!!!!!!!

[GEPM64]

AHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!


As you all guessed, I'm having one heck of a time switching between 3pt implements. Can't wait to have to put it back on in a few days. I spent 35 minutes tonight tying to get my tiller off so I could hook up my box blade. Is there a right way to do it that I'm missing? I always seem to have too much weight on the arms to get the pins out. What's the right way? Better yet what's the wrong way? I must be doing that! Do I park the implement on the ground, on a pallets (raised off the ground), tilted forward or backwards, etc. looking for help here!

Thanks,
Glenn

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Buy a three point quick hitch, it will make hooking up implements much easier!

 

[PHPaul]

On my tiller, I lower it slowly while watching the top link. There is a balance point at which the top link goes slack, neither in tension holding the tiller up, nor in compression from the tiller tilting forward. At this point, pull the pin out of the top link.

My tiller has support legs for storage. After pulling the pin on the top link, I lift the hitch some to tilt the tiller back so I can lower the support legs and pin them in place.

Then lower the tiller again, watching the lower arms for that same slack point. The lower pins should come out cleanly.

Other implements use the same basic approach. If you can't find a spot where the top link is slack, you may have to loosen the jam nut and lengthen or shorten the top link until it is slack.

In general, top link goes on last and comes off first.

I don't find the "quick attach" useful unless you're willing to take the time and make the effort to be sure it fits ALL your implements. Dimensions from implement to implement vary just enough to make it a PITA as far as I'm concerned.

 

[notnew2diy]

In general, top link goes on last and comes off first.

The adjustable arm (right) is the 2nd of the 3 connections.
The fixed arm (left) is 1st on, last off.

HTH....notnew....

 

[hodge]

I find that setting an implement on a pallet makes things harder. On the ground, sitting level with the tractor- watch as you set the implement down, looking to see if one side touches before the other- and as mentioned, watch the top link. If the implement is not set level with the tractor, weight will still rest on the upside pin, making it hard to remove (and later install).
It isn't a science, but it is an art. Once you get the feel, you can remove and install an implement pretty quickly and effortlessly. If you are working against gravity- the implement not sitting on the same plane as the tractor- you will drive yourself nuts.
This is where telescoping draft links make life so much easier (telescoping end links). They move in and out, and up and down, compensating for differences in the angle of the tractor and angle of the implement.
For what it's worth, it isn't just you, or your Kubota. Dad removes the bucket from his JD anywhere, then needs my help getting it back on. The same principles apply, and it is a pain if the bucket isn't level with the tractor.

 

[hodge]

Buy a three point quick hitch, it will make hooking up implements much easier!

That's just a bandaid- he is better off to learn the art of installing and removing, before going to a quick hitch.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I agree with wolfman, if you need to switch implements often, then a quick attatch is the answer.
I used these adapters, but made new arms and welded them on. For me these were ok.
Had the quick hitch been available for 150 i woukd have done it.

 

[mdhughes]

I found that if the implement is "Quick Hitch Ready" it will take a lot of work to attach and detach them from a three point system that doesn't have a quick hitch.

So like Wolfman said, get a quick hitch and life will be a lot better.

 

[Burt]

I found that if the implement is "Quick Hitch Ready" it will take a lot of work to attach and detach them from a three point system that doesn't have a quick hitch.

So like Wolfman said, get a quick hitch and life will be a lot better.

GEPM64,

What they said! Here's one I'm partial to:
http://www.greenwellmfg.com

Burt

 

[cerlawson]

Check the clearance you need for the equipment. I have found that the quick hitch from Harbor Freight at $100 or so fits most of mine. Very sturdy. However, I do not use the hook for the top link, since they (tools) all are different height. Thus I make my own link for that connection.

 

[TripleR]

See if these help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSatF4QoqmI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pH9Tmdtsgg

My brother really likes a quick hitch, I've not tried one and find my TnT with extendable lower links really help.

 

[Burt]

AHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!


As you all guessed, I'm having one heck of a time switching between 3pt implements. Can't wait to have to put it back on in a few days. I spent 35 minutes tonight tying to get my tiller off so I could hook up my box blade. Is there a right way to do it that I'm missing? I always seem to have too much weight on the arms to get the pins out. What's the right way? Better yet what's the wrong way? I must be doing that! Do I park the implement on the ground, on a pallets (raised off the ground), tilted forward or backwards, etc. looking for help here!

Thanks,
Glenn

Glenn,

Check also Hodges stabilizers. You can search this site for them. Between his stabilizers and a quick hitch, life will be much easier.

Burt

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Land Pride makes a quick hitch specifically for subcompact tractors. Its smaller and lighter than the general cat 1 quick hitches, it only weighs 40#.
http://www.landpride.com/products/630/qh05-quick-hitches

They are called quick hitches, but the real advantage is how easy it makes changing implements especially on a BX with short lower links and hard to reach turnbuckles. On mine in addition to the QH05 I also have hodges stabilizers. I don't need to adjust the stabilizers when I change implements with a quick hitch, but I often use the stabilizers to push my rear blade to the side for grading.

 

[GEPM64]

As an update, I fought like hell to get the tiller off (hence this thread) then this morning i put the box scrapper on, which went a bit easier. I'll be putting the tiller back on this week and will try some of the ideas left here. I may look for a quick hitch as well. One question about the quick hitch. How much farther out the back does it stick out from the tractor?

Thanks!
Glenn

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How much farther out the back does it stick out from the tractor?

Depends on the exact model, mine is only 3".

 

[Burt]

As an update, I fought like hell to get the tiller off (hence this thread) then this morning i put the box scrapper on, which went a bit easier. I'll be putting the tiller back on this week and will try some of the ideas left here. I may look for a quick hitch as well. One question about the quick hitch. How much farther out the back does it stick out from the tractor?

Thanks!
Glenn

Glenn,

They will stick out between 3 and 4 inches. Most of us that add them also add the longer top link as well.

Burt

 

[Grouse Feathers]

The Land Pride QH05 moves the implement back 3 1/2". One other benefit of the QH05 is it does not require bushings for all of your implements like most of the larger quick hitches. Most of the larger quick hitches are designed to accommodate cat 2 implements and require bushings to fit cat 1 implements. Since you are unlikely to ever use a cat 2 implement on a scut a quick hitch for a scut is fitted with cat 1 pins and doesn't need bushings.

 

[bcp]

ASAE specifications call for Cat 3 hooks for Cat 1 quick hitches.

My Land Pride QH05 Cat 1 hitch has Cat 2 bottom hooks and a Cat 3 top hook.

My HF Cat 1 hitch is all Cat 3 hooks.

Larger hook size on Cat 1 hitches isn't for larger implements, as the bottom hook spacing is too narrow for Cat 2 or 3 implements. I've no idea why they were designed that way, but maybe so replaceable bushings and pins would wear out instead of permanent hooks wearing out.

Bruce

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Maybe so replaceable bushings and pins would wear out instead of permanent hooks wearing out.

That is exactly why they are designed that way.

 

[Stubbyie]

You may have it figured out by now.

Changing 3-point implements takes practice.

I like setting the implement on a pallet or on an old large truck tire---keep it off the ground while sitting and to me makes it easier to hook up.

Back up to pallet and set implement down solid.

Move your 3-point control lever to full 'down'--full down, past the screw lock stop if you have one.

Loosen top link by unscrewing it if necessary. Leave hooked to tractor. Clip pin and washers (if any) into loose end of top link.

Fully slack off any chains or bars or straps attached to lower links.

If you have adjustable (sliding in / out) lift balls make certain the catch levers are disengaged.

Don't use a hammer--wear boots and kick the lift arms off the implement pins. Or use a piece of hardwood 2x. Don't use a hammer or steel beater.

Be watchful for the implement shifting or falling forward or backward when it comes loose. Think ahead and block or brace based on observation and experience.

Pull forward slowly looking back to make sure a / the lift arm isn't hooked somehow to the implement and dragging it.

To install implement, reverse the process with the addition of a piece of pipe to use as a lever to get the lift arms and pins lined up. Sometimes that cheater will be handy when removing implement too.

Fast is relative and depends on the implement. A simple blade or pallet carrier might go fast, a heavy box blade or disk slower, and a bushhog or tiller with driveline slowest.

I've timed myself: to drop one implement and pick up a bushhog will take every bit of 20-minutes on a hot day. The fastest I ever did it was 15-min when everything went perfect. Once. And then you should hit all the bushhog U-joints and zerks with a grease gun before driving off.

Wear gloves and watch for things flopping around that will bite you. When hooking up PTO driveline STOP the engine and set the brakes. Try to not get mashed or pinched.

It just takes practice.

I'd like to hear how others accomplish this same task.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn. All ideas thoughts suggestions and comments invited.