Looking at small L series. Need advice on size, tier IV emissions, etc.

[Fargo]

First post here, I've been reading the forums for awhile but just opened an account to ask some question.

I'm looking for a small 30-35hp L series Kubuta with a loader. I questioned whether I needed the L series or B series, but it seems the L series is just build stronger and I think that is a good thing with a loader. I only have about 5 acres of workable land that I hope to plant a small orchard on. Right now I need the loader for cleaning up some trees and other debris around the yard. I also have a considerable amount of dirt to move to back fill around what used to be a walk out basement. So I think a 30-35 hp L series should fit. My dad has a L4310 I'd like to buy, but he is not selling and I think it might be too big anyway. Right now I am borrowing an older 2250 from my dad for mowing. Its only 2wd and seems too small for real loader work. Not to mention a new loader cost more than the tractor is worth.

Right now I am looking at a used L2800 (29hp) at a dealership. They said the tractor is a 2008. If it is, that means it has Tier IV emissions. If it happens to be a 2007 it has a smaller engine and is tier III (according to tractordata.com) Should I be concerned about a Tier IV tractor? I want something simple and reliable. Like the old Kubotas are.

Also the dealer said the previous owner didn't use the clutch when engaging the PTO and they have the tractor split to fix the PTO. It sounds like a pretty major deal, so I have concerns if the guy didn't clutch properly to engage the PTO what else did he beat on.

So in a nutshell my questions are:

1) Do I need an L series or will a B series be better

2) Does 30-35hp sound about right

3) Should I be concerned about Tier IV engines

4) Should I even consider a tractor that is already being split apart to fix PTO issues. The tractor is said to only have 664 hrs.

 

[CJN8]

Decisions decisions. I just picked up a brand new B2650 to work my 12 acres out in the east county of San Diego. While I have 12 acres I only really maintain 5 so a B seemed like a good fit. I picked the 2650 to avoid tier 4 and dpf issues. I am extremely satisfied withe the 2650, it's bigger than a standard B and puts my little old B7200 to shame but it really is not fair to compare the two. It pulls a 60" box just fine and powers a 48" hog no problem, I am sure a 60" hog would be fine. Do your research and keep asking questions and in the end you will make the right decision. Good luck.

 

[Fargo]

What year is your B2650? Kubotas website indicates the new ones are Tier IV? I'm looking for something used with low hours, but since used prices are nearly as high as new, I could be tempted to buy new if it wasn't for Tier IV stuff. I thought everything newer than 2008 was tierIV. Maybe it varies by tractor.

 

[sheepfarmer]

The terminology can get confusing when you try to sort out the tier III, interim tier IV, IV stuff. A tractor can meet tier IV emissions standards WITHOUT having any of the equipment on it that some folks object to, so even brand new tractors with small enough engines can meet the standards without any extra equipment on them. I don't think the L2800's of those years have anything on them that would make them a problem. So double check with the dealer, but the one you are looking at might be perfectly ordinary. If you are considering several models as you shop, you can go online to the kubota website, or the Messick's website and download for free a parts diagram for the engine and look to see what is on it.

In the L series the 2014 and later 3301, 3309's, etc and the grand L's (have a --60 number) all have a diesel particulate filter that has to have a regeneration cycle done on it, 15 min every 20-30 hours. I have a 3560 and love it. So far the regen stuff is not a problem.

Here is a link to a thread that has additional user threads within it http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3

You can then decide if you want to consider one of the newer ones

 

[Fargo]

Thanks Sheepfarmer. I didn't realize some engines could make the regs without the gadgets. That opens up a lot of addition options as I have seen a number of 2011-2013 tractors for sale that I never considered before.

Thanks for the link too. I found the sticky at the top of the page with the Tier IV stuff. Funny that I never found that thread when I searched before. I'll read it later tonight.

EDIT: Assuming Tier IV is not an issue, any thoughts on this tractor being split to correct the PTO?

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to OTT Fargo. Yes, before 2014 L's were NOT Tier IV. I have a L3200 that was made in late 2013 that I bought new in early 2014 without Tier IV. The BEST way to tell the difference is by the Model Number. As Sheepfarmer stated L2800, L3200, L3800 and L4600 are ALL before Tier IV.
As for B's or L's, I recommend getting the beefier L's because of the weight and size to handle bigger projects. I went into the dealer looking for a B but after he explained why I really wouldn't be happy with the B, I took his advice and got the L and I am sure glad I listened.

 

[Bluegill]

Thanks Sheepfarmer. I didn't realize some engines could make the regs without the gadgets. That opens up a lot of addition options as I have seen a number of 2011-2013 tractors for sale that I never considered before.

Thanks for the link too. I found the sticky at the top of the page with the Tier IV stuff. Funny that I never found that thread when I searched before. I'll read it later tonight.

EDIT: Assuming Tier IV is not an issue, any thoughts on this tractor being split to correct the PTO?

L2501, L3301 & L3901 are the new tier 4 models.

I wouldn't worry about the L2800 having work done on it, if the dealer is any good the rig will be just fine. Sounds like a good fit for your needs.

 

[sheepfarmer]

L2501, L3301 & L3901 are the new tier 4 models.

I wouldn't worry about the L2800 having work done on it, if the dealer is any good the rig will be just fine. Sounds like a good fit for your needs.

If I am remembering correctly, the new 2501 meets the tier IV standards without a dpf. The cutoff is around 29hp.

 

[Fargo]

Welcome to OTT Fargo. Yes, before 2014 L's were NOT Tier IV. I have a L3200 that was made in late 2013 that I bought new in early 2014 without Tier IV. The BEST way to tell the difference is by the Model Number. As Sheepfarmer stated L2800, L3200, L3800 and L4600 are ALL before Tier IV.
As for B's or L's, I recommend getting the beefier L's because of the weight and size to handle bigger projects. I went into the dealer looking for a B but after he explained why I really wouldn't be happy with the B, I took his advice and got the L and I am sure glad I listened.

Thanks for the thoughts. I'd rather avoid all the extra computerized stuff if I can. Although that probably goes back further than Tier IV. Its good to know some Tier IV doesn't need extra equipment.

I was looking at tractordata.com and they said your L 3200 is Interim Tier IV. But if it doesn't have a dpf or other complications I really don't care. Clean is good. That opens up another tractor for me. I found an L3200 about 170 miles from me. The problem is that tractor is up in Canada. So I don't know if I will have trouble getting parts or anything. Or if they are the same as USA spec.

 

[Kmanrsss]

I can't imagine parts being an issue with the tractor but coming back across the border might be interesting.

 

[Bluegill]

If I am remembering correctly, the new 2501 meets the tier IV standards without a dpf. The cutoff is around 29hp.

Yes, I believe you are right about the 2501. I read that somewhere, but forgot it.

 

[Bluegill]

Thanks for the thoughts. I'd rather avoid all the extra computerized stuff if I can. Although that probably goes back further than Tier IV. Its good to know some Tier IV doesn't need extra equipment.

I was looking at tractordata.com and they said your L 3200 is Interim Tier IV. But if it doesn't have a dpf or other complications I really don't care. Clean is good. That opens up another tractor for me. I found an L3200 about 170 miles from me. The problem is that tractor is up in Canada. So I don't know if I will have trouble getting parts or anything. Or if they are the same as USA spec.

No DPF or extra stuff on the L2800, 3200, 3400 or 3800. These are basic, simple tractors.

 

[Fargo]

No DPF or extra stuff on the L2800, 3200, 3400 or 3800. These are basic, simple tractors.

This sounds like what I am looking for. Since you have the L3800 and MickeyD has the 3200 I'm inclined to think you guys would know what your talking about.

I'll have to really look at these tractors. I prefer the bigger engine of the L3200 but its $2000 more. Although it does only have 100hours vs 640hrs. It also has the Industrial tires that I think would work better on my sandy soil. At least they would tear up the grass less when I hook up a 3pt mower. But then of course their is the whole issue with buying it in Canada. I'd probably get stuck with a $2000 duty or something. But I'll have to look into it.

What are the thoughts on transmissions? I tend to prefer a manual for its simplicity. I also just like the feel of being in a solid gear. I like manuals in my cars too. I haven't driven a hydro for years but I never liked the way they felt. They always felt like they were dogging out of power to me. But with a loader I can see where they would be a lot quicker moving dirt around.

Thanks guys for all the info. I'm familiar with some of the old Kubotas (B7100s in particular). My dad used to sell them when I was a kid, but he retired years ago and closed the shop. Up until a few months ago, I was a city boy that never needed a tractor. But I'm really liking the country life if I can get the right equipment to get my work done. My dad now has Alzheimers and his guidance is shakey, so I appreciate you guys sharing your wisdom and helping me get up to speed on what I need.

 

[chim]

Good morning. The L3200HST has worked out to be the a great size for me. We have 3-1/2 acres of mostly grass with trees, small stream, a couple sheds and some slopes. The tractor is beefier all around than my B7500 was and yet it is nimble. The 32 HP is enough for pulling a 6' RFM and running a 64" snow blower.

I doubt a 25 HP model would work for me on a tractor this size running the attachments I do. The B7500 had 21 HP and a heavy 5' RFM was quite a load for it.

The loader has plenty of capacity - both volume and lift capacity - for any needs here. It's very easy on/off and it is not on when mowing because it detracts from the maneuverability and I fear the added weight on the front tires would help them damage grass on sharper turns.

R4's have worked very well here. I had one 2WD tractor with turfs, and I do have another (smaller) tractor with R1's.

 

[Bluegill]

This sounds like what I am looking for. Since you have the L3800 and MickeyD has the 3200 I'm inclined to think you guys would know what your talking about.

I'll have to really look at these tractors. I prefer the bigger engine of the L3200 but its $2000 more. Although it does only have 100hours vs 640hrs. It also has the Industrial tires that I think would work better on my sandy soil. At least they would tear up the grass less when I hook up a 3pt mower. But then of course their is the whole issue with buying it in Canada. I'd probably get stuck with a $2000 duty or something. But I'll have to look into it.

What are the thoughts on transmissions? I tend to prefer a manual for its simplicity. I also just like the feel of being in a solid gear. I like manuals in my cars too. I haven't driven a hydro for years but I never liked the way they felt. They always felt like they were dogging out of power to me. But with a loader I can see where they would be a lot quicker moving dirt around.

Thanks guys for all the info. I'm familiar with some of the old Kubotas (B7100s in particular). My dad used to sell them when I was a kid, but he retired years ago and closed the shop. Up until a few months ago, I was a city boy that never needed a tractor. But I'm really liking the country life if I can get the right equipment to get my work done. My dad now has Alzheimers and his guidance is shakey, so I appreciate you guys sharing your wisdom and helping me get up to speed on what I need.

We have 400 acres here and our rigs get a workout! Mostly mowing and logging... I Really like the L3800DT, although a larger tractor would be more practical, it's a keeper! The old L3750 is quite a bit larger, but it's beat to hell.

As for transmissions, I prefer manual (gear drive) & just can't stand to use HST! Not saying HST is bad, it is great for loader work. But I'll use gear drive as long as I'm able...

 

[DamCraig]

I have the L2501 and you are correct Sheepfarmer. These are Tier IV compliant without DPF. My understanding is the cutoff for the DPF was 25hp and the 2501 has a "rated" HP of 24.8 keeping it just under the limit.

 

[Fargo]

...

The loader has plenty of capacity - both volume and lift capacity - for any needs here. It's very easy on/off and it is not on when mowing because it detracts from the maneuverability and I fear the added weight on the front tires would help them damage grass on sharper turns.

R4's have worked very well here. I had one 2WD tractor with turfs, and I do have another (smaller) tractor with R1's.

Do you take the whole loader off or do you have a quicktach bucket? I've been a bit concerned about having the loader on while mowing.

I've found a 2011 L3400 that I am very interested in. Its a little more money than i wanted to spend but it only has 170 hours. Surprisingly the guy selling it is actually the 2nd owner. It kind of scares me that two people have gotten rid of this tractor with only 170 hours on it. Makes me question if something is wrong with it. Although if that was the case you'd think the first owner would have some kind of warranty on it.

 

[mickeyd]

I have the QA bucket but leave the FEL or forks, etc. on when mowing. For dense under growth, the bucket comes in handy as a stump finder.

 

[chim]

Do you take the whole loader off or do you have a quicktach bucket? I've been a bit concerned about having the loader on while mowing..........................

I take the whole works off. It is very easy to do and the farthest things sticking out are the grille guard and front tires. It only takes a couple minutes. The loader on the L3200 is a lot nicer to deal with than the one on the B7500 I had. With the B7500 I was always worried about missing the catch and smacking the hood with the loader frame crossbar.

With the doors on the cab I have to dismount to pull / replace the two big pins and the QD hoses. With the doors off in warm weather I only need to get off to do the hoses. Back before building the cab I could pull in the shed and drop the loader in less than a minute without dismounting. The windshield blocks access to the QD's.

 

[Bluegill]

I also take the loader off the L3800, easy 5 minutes max. Hate to mow
with the loader on!